My fox 40 axle is stuck because the spot where u put the 5mm key to get the axle out is rounded out ,the 5mm key just turns in it with now problems..........HELP
Had this recently, and tried everything suggested to no avail. Just had more and more material stripping out the axle, those things are like butter.
Anyway, my mechanic friend saved me and it turned out to be super simple.Insert two allen/hex keys into the threaded side of the axle. They should fit very snug (i believe I used an 8mm and 5mm keys). You will want to make the fit as tight as possible, to do this I put a strip of old innertube under the smaller allen key for added grip and gently hammered it in. Furthermore, I inserted the 8mm in with the longer side going inside, and vice versa for the short one. You will be left with two allen keys protruding, and they should be at opposites (eg half past 12 if it was a clock face).
Now simply turn ONE of the allen keys clockwise (remember we are using the threaded side of axle so it will be reversed). It will spin at first, but when it stars to get to a closer angle to the stationary allen key, it will act like a clutch and grip enough to loosen the axle.
well, tried the screwdirver idea, hammered a big old one into there nice and tight, made its own groove, gave it a bit of a turn, and it cut through the axle material like butter, so now I donno how that things going to come off. Sadly this bike is my only transport atm, and now I have a flat.. that I cannot get off to repair.
Had this recently, and tried everything suggested to no avail. Just had more and more material stripping out the axle, those things are like butter.
Anyway, my mechanic friend saved me and it turned out to be super simple.Insert two allen/hex keys into the threaded side of the axle. They should fit very snug (i believe I used an 8mm and 5mm keys). You will want to make the fit as tight as possible, to do this I put a strip of old innertube under the smaller allen key for added grip and gently hammered it in. Furthermore, I inserted the 8mm in with the longer side going inside, and vice versa for the short one. You will be left with two allen keys protruding, and they should be at opposites (eg half past 12 if it was a clock face).
Now simply turn ONE of the allen keys clockwise (remember we are using the threaded side of axle so it will be reversed). It will spin at first, but when it stars to get to a closer angle to the stationary allen key, it will act like a clutch and grip enough to loosen the axle.
Hope that makes sense
Now thats a good way to take it off, i tried this it worked. Thanks man!
Why would I buy new forks when my 40's are perfectly fine and suit my needs well. Plus I could never see myself riding a Boxxer. meh. Anyhow.. I'll try the screwdriver idea.
I just had this happen to me I tried everything I used to work wrenches bigger Alan Keyes finally what I did was is I want to the opposite side of the Allen key hole so the left side of the fork and shoved a tire iron into it so that it was jammed and then spun it free. Before doing this what I also did was unthread the pinch bolts completely and shoved a pocket knife and kind of very gently widened where the pinch bolts pinched
The way we would tackle that in shop is to drill a hole to tapp a thred then install a bolt to the new thred, using gentle force you should get enough grip to turn the axel free,
Banging a flat into the stripped hole works but can burp threds together and fuse over time,
The way we would tackle that in shop is to drill a hole to tapp a thred then install a bolt to the new thred, using gentle force you should get enough grip to turn the axel free,
Banging a flat into the stripped hole works but can burp threds together and fuse over time,
Use a little Penatrating spray to ease.
Probably not a good idea, long term, in the first place that hex rounded out, and not sure if the new tap screw will last long either, with all the screwing and unscrewing that axle. Lol.
Take note that material is very soft so that screw thread cant even be made.
The way we would tackle that in shop is to drill a hole to tapp a thred then install a bolt to the new thred, using gentle force you should get enough grip to turn the axel free,
Banging a flat into the stripped hole works but can burp threds together and fuse over time,
Use a little Penatrating spray to ease.
Probably not a good idea, long term, in the first place that hex rounded out, and not sure if the new tap screw will last long either, with all the screwing and unscrewing that axle. Lol.
Take note that material is very soft so that screw thread cant even be made.
That’s purely to removed a stick axle not as a permanent fix,
The way we would tackle that in shop is to drill a hole to tapp a thred then install a bolt to the new thred, using gentle force you should get enough grip to turn the axel free,
Banging a flat into the stripped hole works but can burp threds together and fuse over time,
Use a little Penatrating spray to ease.
Probably not a good idea, long term, in the first place that hex rounded out, and not sure if the new tap screw will last long either, with all the screwing and unscrewing that axle. Lol.
Take note that material is very soft so that screw thread cant even be made.
That’s purely to removed a stick axle not as a permanent fix,
Even though, all these approach arent good and wasted the axle material and will benthrown away. In my opinion only one method is good enough and doesnt damage the axle like all that was mentioned here.lol
At least in my case the axle would not have been worth saving. Even if I could have got it out with your method, I would have tossed it immediately.
I already had a new one waiting to go in. I want an axle that is dependable. Once that initial seizing occurred, it didn’t matter what was pounded into the axle, I even dremeled a slot for a huge ass screwdriver.. the whole thing pretty much became like soft butter in the summer. No way it would have held a bolt.
I’ve just had this problem after a shop botched a fork service and overtightened the axle (not Bounce who are ace!) I’ve got a really neat permanent solution.
I got a free tool with a YT Capra, it’s like an adjustable wrench with 2 pins that stick out sideways. I’m sure it’s a pretty standard tool though as you use something similar on motorbikes.
You can drill 2 x 2mm holes in the Fox axle either side of the stripped hex hole then use the YT tool to remove the axle.
Here’s links to pictures of the tool and the drilled axle.
I used a very simple approach to this, which was to insert a blind bearing puller into the open end of the axle. Just need to tighten it up until the collet is good and tight in the axle and then twist it out. It's the way I take my axle in and out by default now. Does anyone know of an alternative source for the replacement caps? Mojo seems to be closed or something?