the think is just clear coat from car industry do the job or needs anything else?
mrfrench2013 wrote:
Yes, you need to clear coat it to keep it shiny, otherwise you just need to keep up with polishing; thats what i do since i don't trust my painting skills.
hey guys i have a question,i make my bike raw and sand it with 800 grid and 1000.its very nice but how can i protect it from being dirty again.Because after a couple of rides start to be dirty again,not from the mud. Can i paint it with clear coat or varnish something?And what is the steps if someone knows thanksss
If its polished, the clear coat will flake right off then you'll end up having to start all over because you'll have to sand areas where it did stick. At least that was my experience. Someone suggested to me on this forum to use a product called Shineseal (https://www.shineseal.com/). It looks like it does the job but the cost prevented me from ever trying it out.
hey guys i have a question,i make my bike raw and sand it with 800 grid and 1000.its very nice but how can i protect it from being dirty again.Because after a couple of rides start to be dirty again,not from the mud. Can i paint it with clear coat or varnish something?And what is the steps if someone knows thanksss
If its polished, the clear coat will flake right off then you'll end up having to start all over because you'll have to sand areas where it did stick. At least that was my experience. Someone suggested to me on this forum to use a product called Shineseal (https://www.shineseal.com/). It looks like it does the job but the cost prevented me from ever trying it out.
Has anyone tried the clear 2k epoxy coating that is used on boats? I have used it on a raw steel road bike. I was it only lightly blasted to give the coating a surface to hold on to, but the steel still had some shine. left Maybe just bead blasting or brushing would have been enough. The stuff is pretty toxic so I had it done by a pro.
I used automotive wax on mine, but that doesn't protect from knee pads rubbing the bike very long. I tried clear coating, but that peeled off just by looking at it. The surface needs to be blasted or scuffed to have any hope of clear sticking, and mirror polishing is like Teflon. I ended up using protective film, seemed to work OK but the seams in the film were easy to spot when it was dirty.
Polishing and waxing. It’s going to beat up by rocks and grit regardless if painted or not. Clear paint eventually yellows if it doesn’t chip or flake off first. The one exception might be clear tape, but you’ d have to do a very extensive job covering it fully or eventually the non protected areas are going to take on a very different look.
Autosol....amazing product....dont bother clear coating as it will just chip off. Give a quick wipe with autosol when it needs a bit of a shine up. Did this with my commencal supreme fr and worked perfectly.
Autosol....amazing product....dont bother clear coating as it will just chip off. Give a quick wipe with autosol when it needs a bit of a shine up. Did this with my commencal supreme fr and worked perfectly.
I don't know if you've tried Silvo wadding or not, but I personally found it far better for polishing than Autosol.
[Quote="Philitup"]Finally building a bike that would fall into the category of this forum. Titanium Cachet Heat 4X in the works...
First, I have to say that the pictures are stunning! Good choice of color background to make the bike pop! And yes, the bike looks amazing! The blue accents really work on this bike for sure... can't wait to see it finished.
Finally building a bike that would fall into the category of this forum. Titanium Cachet Heat 4X in the works...
First, I have to say that the pictures are stunning! Good choice of color background to make the bike pop! And yes, the bike looks amazing! The blue accents really work on this bike for sure... can't wait to see it finished.
Thank you for the kind words, my man. Very much appreciated! Definitely excited for the future of this build!