Chain device confusion !

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Chain device confusion !
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flag unityjon
Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 8:17 Quote
Hi all, just a quickie.... (i did a search but couldnt find an answer to this...)

I've bought a deore 10spd group set with 175mm chainset 2/32/44 rings and i cant seem to find a chain device with bashguard to fit, is there one for a 44t ? or should i just ditch the 44t ring off the set and only cover the 32t ? Very confused

opinons and advice needed

thanks
flag unityjon
Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 8:20 Quote
P.S. the frame has an ISCG mount
flag pbuser102331
Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 8:29 Quote
You ditch the big ring and replace it with the bash guard,have you got a picture of your new chainset.
flag hampsteadbandit
Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 9:24 Quote
depends on your setup and bike / riding style

you can run 1 x 10 or 2 x 10

1 x 10 is a single ring up front, and requires a suitable chain device like E13 LG1 or E13 SRS, you ditch your front derailleur and left shifter pod

2 x 10 is two rings up front, and requires a suitable chain device like E13 DRS or Blackspire Stinger + bashguard, plus you leave your front derailleur installed and your left shifter pod


with either the 1 x 10 or 2 x 10 setups, you will need to change your chainring(s)

for 1 x 10 you probably want 34T or 36T (depends on how steep your regular riding trails are) and it needs to be a "non shifting" chainring like Renthal or E13, which has no shifting ramps and is thinner to allow the chain device to be setup with proper spacing

for 2 x 10 you probably want 36T (a "shifting ring" with the ramps) and keep your existing 22T granny gear
flag unityjon
Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 12:00 Quote
Thanks for the replies, its been a great help, its a whole new build (my first one) so i'm on a steep learning curve, and seeing as i struggle my arse off getting back up the trailsRedface i'll go 2x10 i think.

pic of the chain set from a website:
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://merlincycles.s3.amazonaws.com/p/l/DEORE-GROUP-10.jpg
pics of the build so far, should be complete by the end of this week:

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/unityjon/2012-01-04190106.jpg
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h271/unityjon/2012-01-06083550.jpg

haven't got a 'proper' photo sorry Confused
flag pbuser102331
Posted: Jan 16, 2012 at 12:40 Quote
Nice build,and you could go dual up front and still run a guide.
flag unityjon
Posted: Jan 17, 2012 at 3:02 Quote
thats what i like to hear....

the million dollar question.....any guide suggestions for the 36t to be honest they're not something i'm familiar with and cant help thinking they're a lot of cash for a lump of plastic Facepalm
flag pbuser102331
Posted: Jan 17, 2012 at 3:03 Quote
unityjon wrote:
thats what i like to hear....

the million dollar question.....any guide suggestions for the 36t to be honest they're not something i'm familiar with and cant help thinking they're a lot of cash for a lump of plastic Facepalm

Most are cnc machined aluminum back plates made in house.
flag unityjon
Posted: Jan 17, 2012 at 3:13 Quote
yeah but 30mins CNC programming and £5 worth of material ?? LOL

so just to annoy you further (thanks for the help by the way) i should / could ditch the outer 44T replace the middle 32t with another middle 36t and fit a chain device along these lines:

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Original/35810.jpg
and i'm good to go ?
flag hampsteadbandit
Posted: Jan 17, 2012 at 12:47 Quote
its always worth spending decent money on a decent chain device, wether running 1 x 10, 2 x 10, 1x 9 or whatever setup you choose

cheaper chain device tend not to work well under extreme pressure. I've wasted too much money on cheaper devices, and stick to quality devices from E13, MRP, etc.

it seems a lot (£90-110) but its well worth the money because your lovely bike is severely compromised by a chain device that allows the chain to jam, drop or derail on a regular basis!!

the good news is that companies like E13 are doing their more affordable range with the steel backplates, which work just as well but are slightly heavier and have a little less adjustment range

a cheap chain device, can actually ruin a riding trip, especially if you go overseas to somewhere like the French Alps or Canada where the rough, steeper terrain will dump your chain in seconds unless its 100% protected

the same is true if you enter a DH race only to have your chain dump during your run!
flag MackemMark
Posted: Feb 21, 2012 at 10:28 Quote
So...sorry to be grave digging a bit, but I'm desperate for some help.

Just got my lbs to fit a blackspire stinger I bought, but when shifting to the granny ring, the chain comes out of the roller and slightly rubs against the back plate. The lbs did acknowledge this saying "the chain does rub slightly on the backplate in the granny gear, but there's not much I can do about this as the roller doesn't keep the chain in."

I'n not in the granny gear much, but there's that little niggling at the back of my mind that it isn't quite perfect.

Does anyone know why this might be happening or how I can fix it?

Rings are 32/22
flag pbuser102331
Posted: Feb 21, 2012 at 10:32 Quote
MackemMark wrote:
So...sorry to be grave digging a bit, but I'm desperate for some help.

Just got my lbs to fit a blackspire stinger I bought, but when shifting to the granny ring, the chain comes out of the roller and slightly rubs against the back plate. The lbs did acknowledge this saying "the chain does rub slightly on the backplate in the granny gear, but there's not much I can do about this as the roller doesn't keep the chain in."

I'n not in the granny gear much, but there's that little niggling at the back of my mind that it isn't quite perfect.

Does anyone know why this might be happening or how I can fix it?

Rings are 32/22

Same happens to mine.
flag pbuser102331
Posted: Feb 21, 2012 at 10:55 Quote
MackemMark wrote:
So it's gravy?

If that's good then yeah kinda.
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