Enduro/AM - The Weight Game

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Enduro/AM - The Weight Game
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Posted: Jun 6, 2019 at 18:55 Quote
whitebirdfeathers wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
swan3609 wrote:
We only have a few SB100s and a sb130 out right now.. Have yet to see any issues with any of them.
Sold a bunch of yetis and ibis (about 1:1 ratio) saw about a 12% failure rate on the ibis bikes saw no broken yetis. (Sample size was 75 ibis bikes and 78 yeti bikes)

Is this on the most recent Ibis bikes like the Ripmo? I hadn't really heard of any since that came out. Previously there seemed to be a lot.
Left the shop in 2018.

Posted: Jun 6, 2019 at 22:37 Quote
Axxe wrote:
145 is minimum for me.

One thing I learned from my road bike fit is that I need a wider saddle. Too narrow and my sit bones bypass the structural part of the saddle and pressure goes straight to my prostate. Yay.

Posted: Jun 6, 2019 at 23:22 Quote
seraph wrote:
Axxe wrote:
145 is minimum for me.

One thing I learned from my road bike fit is that I need a wider saddle. Too narrow and my sit bones bypass the structural part of the saddle and pressure goes straight to my prostate. Yay.

Narrower minimum width here, but same problem. Two factors can help:

1. Flatter profile all the way to the edges to keep you from sinking down until "non load bearing" regions take the load.

2. A curved profile better matches the profile of our undercarriage, but requires a large channel / cut-out to avoid the aforementioned problem. Some examples are the Specialized Power Arc and many of Selle Italia and Prologo's new models; Selle SMP takes it several steps further.

Posted: Jun 7, 2019 at 9:37 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
seraph wrote:
Axxe wrote:
145 is minimum for me.

One thing I learned from my road bike fit is that I need a wider saddle. Too narrow and my sit bones bypass the structural part of the saddle and pressure goes straight to my prostate. Yay.

Narrower minimum width here, but same problem. Two factors can help:

1. Flatter profile all the way to the edges to keep you from sinking down until "non load bearing" regions take the load.

2. A curved profile better matches the profile of our undercarriage, but requires a large channel / cut-out to avoid the aforementioned problem. Some examples are the Specialized Power Arc and many of Selle Italia and Prologo's new models; Selle SMP takes it several steps further.

I absolutely abhor the Power saddle. I do however have a Romin S-Works 155mm on transfer from another store, so we'll see how that one works out. I sat on a customer's Sagan Romin and it was quite comfy.

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 5:12 Quote
Always used stans sealant but with all the new brands selling sealent I don't know wich to chose.
Thought I saw a test somewhere the other day but can't find it.
Which one do you guys like?

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 6:55 Quote
ColinD wrote:
Always used stans sealant but with all the new brands selling sealent I don't know wich to chose.
Thought I saw a test somewhere the other day but can't find it.
Which one do you guys like?

Fresh lot of Stans?

Good over a wide range of tyre manufacturers - got my Schwalbes leaky sidewalls sorted, E13 , Maxxis - all fine. I do however, use twice the recommended amount. No issues


apparently, Hutchinson is cheap & effective

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 7:27 Quote
Orange endurance.

O+
Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 11:33 Quote
I have the regular orange and it has done well.

I like stans race.

I also use twice as much as recommended.

I took out a test bike from the shop with the Mucoff sealant and it did nothing to seal the a minor whole in the tread. So I wouldn’t buy it

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 11:49 Quote
Stan's. Alternatively: Stan's. Orange Seal is too thin, doesn't seal consistently enough.

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 11:58 Quote
Ok so Stans race sealant or normall? wich one has longest durability?

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 13:26 Quote
seraph wrote:
Stan's. Alternatively: Stan's. Orange Seal is too thin, doesn't seal consistently enough.
Funny, I had the opposite experience.

Orange sealed a hole that Stans couldnt.

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 14:09 Quote
Nobble wrote:
seraph wrote:
Stan's. Alternatively: Stan's. Orange Seal is too thin, doesn't seal consistently enough.
Funny, I had the opposite experience.

Orange sealed a hole that Stans couldnt.

I've never had a hole Stan's couldn't seal.

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 14:38 Quote
Nobble wrote:
seraph wrote:
Stan's. Alternatively: Stan's. Orange Seal is too thin, doesn't seal consistently enough.
Funny, I had the opposite experience.

Orange sealed a hole that Stans couldnt.
Same... stan's is mediocre in my experience, probably 80% success rate. Orange Seal has never once failed me.

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 15:22 Quote
To chim in; we've had very good luck with Stan's, Stan's Race, and Muc Off. Finish line and Orange Seal was too thin in our experience.

It's kinda funny people can have such a wide variety of experiences that are 100% real world that literally oppose one another. Not doubting anyone, just funny.

Posted: Jun 8, 2019 at 15:29 Quote
sherbet wrote:
To chim in; we've had very good luck with Stan's, Stan's Race, and Muc Off. Finish line and Orange Seal was too thin in our experience.

It's kinda funny people can have such a wide variety of experiences that are 100% real world that literally oppose one another. Not doubting anyone, just funny.

Yeah. We only use Stan's regular sealant here at the shop. We sell Orange Seal but the customer has to buy it first before we'll install it. It's just so messy and thin.


 


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