Enduro/AM - The Weight Game

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Enduro/AM - The Weight Game
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Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 9:40 Quote
My Bird AM9 frame weighs exactly 3000 g (6.6 lbs, verified) without shock. A friend's Privateer 161 is about a half pound heavier (claimed). Both are aluminum frames and both are in the ballpark of $1000. This should be rather embarrassing to the makers of carbon frames that cost three times as much and weigh pounds more.

Thankfully, people are realizing weight is one of the least significant parameters in overall performance. It's tangible, quantifiable, and easily communicated to people with little understanding of bikes, so it's a great tool when selling bikes, but that's about all.

The main concern over weight is the ratio of sprung to unsprung mass. The ratio isn't far off 1:1. It's closer to 10:1 on a car, yet automotive manufacturers give considerable attention to it. Get the weight off your wheels and put it on the frame. Ditch your pack and strap everything to your bike!

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 10:03 Quote
My bike is 34lbs. Feels great.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 10:04 Quote
RMR: Have you had an opportunity to ride the Privateer? I like what they are doing with that frame.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 10:15 Quote
Tsoxbhk wrote:
My bike is 34lbs. Feels great.

Yup.

My megatower with all AXS bits is 35lbs and feels great too

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 10:31 Quote
I’m done obsessing over weight, I won’t suffer heavy stuff unnecessarily, but I build bikes to be the best the can be for the intended purpose, they weigh what they weigh.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 11:09 Quote
kwapik wrote:
RMR: Have you had an opportunity to ride the Privateer? I like what they are doing with that frame.

Not yet. One of my ride buds is letting me spec up a bike for him and we've gone with the 161. The first delivery of raw finish frames has been pushed back to May; I'll throw a leg over it at the first possible moment. I'm probably more excited about it than he is, and he's really excited!

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 11:50 Quote
If we're comparing between different bikes it's less relevant, what's more important is suspension design, leverage ratio, etc. But if we're starting with a 30 lb bike and making it 27 lbs by switching out some gear that only affects weight, then it's a more noticeable change. Did my SJ ride nicely at 30 lbs? Yes. Will my Tallboy ride nicely at 27 lbs? Will it ride better? That's a more complicated question.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 12:14 Quote
True. More actionable questions could be:

• How much will my experience be improved by a reduction in mass of X?
• How much can I improve my experience for $X?

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 12:20 Quote
yep replaced my xo1 carbon cranks with aluminum gx cranks and I can't tell the difference for 99% of the ride.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 13:48 Quote
At a certain point the $ to weight savings is just crazy. I just finished a pretty much dream build and couldn’t bring myself to upgrade the gx drivetrain I already had. It was looking like $400 plus to save 150g max. Crazy.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 13:56 Quote
“Upgrades” are rarely cost effective. Buy the part you want from the start.

If itching for a change - set that money aside for the next bike.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 14:04 Quote
scjeremy wrote:
At a certain point the $ to weight savings is just crazy.

Yep. Return on investment drops off pretty quickly. Anyone spending an extra $5 per gram saved to reduce sprung mass is crazy.

Even at OE pricing, which is far below wholesale, I couldn't justify going above mid-level on some items. I'm on e*thirteen TRS Plus aluminum cranks, for example, when I could've had carbon cranks for eeWings for one-quarter of the usual price spread between them. They're not much heavier, have more ground clearance than carbon cranks, and have less stance width than almost any carbon cranks or eeWings.

Similarly, my saddle has hollow steel rails and I would've gone with e*thirteen's marginally heavier TRS Plus cassette, had it been available. Even at OE pricing. And then I went with Bird fiber spokes and Extralite hubs.

Why stop at the bike: anyone else weigh their clothes? One of my jerseys weighs about 200 g less than another, when both are mildly damp. The lighter one was cheaper, too. One pair of shorts is 200 g less than another. I've seen shoes with comparable performance differ by nearly 200 g. Helmets vary by at least 100 g. Packs vary by almost a full pound. Well-prepared tool kits can vary by another half pound. My spare tube is a 0.45 mm thick 26", even for my 29er. Everything counts. My everything-other-than-the-bike kit is about 2 - 4 lbs lighter than what most of my friends bring.


Axxe wrote:
“Upgrades” are rarely cost effective. Buy the part you want from the start.

If itching for a change - set that money aside for the next bike.

True, though a few, modestly-priced upgrades may be worth it if they increase the purchase interval by a year or two.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 14:21 Quote
So talking weight.

160mm 29er Lyrik Ultimate vs 160mm 29er Pike Ultimate?

I weigh 170lbs and the Shore is my backyard. No hucking big drops or jumps, just regular trail.

For a none clyde non bike park hucker what does the extra weight really gain?

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 14:22 Quote
We fuss so much over grams then proceed to add nearly a kg of water onto our downtubes.

Posted: Feb 23, 2020 at 14:41 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
We fuss so much over grams then proceed to add nearly a kg of water onto our downtubes.

We need the water and the bike is the best place to add it. Better there than on your back.


 
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