Might be the first but I have a 2022 Session and an ABP pivot bearing is coming out of the frame. I have less than three park days on it and the bearing can be pressed in and out fairly easily. I've had a similar issue on my Remedy but it wasn't until after 6 years of riding. Curious if anyone else has had this issue?
15 park days on my 2022 currently and no issues so far other than occasional headset creak and some cable rattle in the top tube.
I have a 2022 Session frame on the way, and I already have an EXT Arma that is 250x75. Has it been done and are there frame clearance issues?
The new session is 225mm trunnion mount isn’t it?
It is not trunnion. it is 250x72.5. So this means the rear wheel will have more upward travel/deeper shock travel than the frame was designed for. I am not sure the ratios as I know 2.5mm at the shock isn't equal to 2.5mm at the axle.
I ended up just having a shop reduce the stroke to 72.5 so I wouldn't have to worry about it. But on the Rockshox Coil that called for a complete rebuild.
I have a 2022 Session frame on the way, and I already have an EXT Arma that is 250x75. Has it been done and are there frame clearance issues?
The new session is 225mm trunnion mount isn’t it?
It is not trunnion. it is 250x72.5. So this means the rear wheel will have more upward travel/deeper shock travel than the frame was designed for. I am not sure the ratios as I know 2.5mm at the shock isn't equal to 2.5mm at the axle.
I ended up just having a shop reduce the stroke to 72.5 so I wouldn't have to worry about it. But on the Rockshox Coil that called for a complete rebuild.
Yea, my rudimentary math says that 2.5mm of stroke is good for 7-8mm of travel. I just wonder if that's gonna cause me to smash into the seat tube.
It is not trunnion. it is 250x72.5. So this means the rear wheel will have more upward travel/deeper shock travel than the frame was designed for. I am not sure the ratios as I know 2.5mm at the shock isn't equal to 2.5mm at the axle.
I ended up just having a shop reduce the stroke to 72.5 so I wouldn't have to worry about it. But on the Rockshox Coil that called for a complete rebuild.
Yea, my rudimentary math says that 2.5mm of stroke is good for 7-8mm of travel. I just wonder if that's gonna cause me to smash into the seat tube.
Probably a little less extra travel, as the shock produces more travel at the wheel early in the stroke than at the bottom out end. Easiest way to check is to take the shock out, compress the rear end until something hits, then measure the length the shock would be at that point. I'd also be inclined to leave a little clearance between whatever two parts are going to hit first, to account for any frame flex. How much clearance you need depends on which parts are coming into contact, but the more generous the better really.
It is not trunnion. it is 250x72.5. So this means the rear wheel will have more upward travel/deeper shock travel than the frame was designed for. I am not sure the ratios as I know 2.5mm at the shock isn't equal to 2.5mm at the axle.
I ended up just having a shop reduce the stroke to 72.5 so I wouldn't have to worry about it. But on the Rockshox Coil that called for a complete rebuild.
Yea, my rudimentary math says that 2.5mm of stroke is good for 7-8mm of travel. I just wonder if that's gonna cause me to smash into the seat tube.
Probably a little less extra travel, as the shock produces more travel at the wheel early in the stroke than at the bottom out end. Easiest way to check is to take the shock out, compress the rear end until something hits, then measure the length the shock would be at that point. I'd also be inclined to leave a little clearance between whatever two parts are going to hit first, to account for any frame flex. How much clearance you need depends on which parts are coming into contact, but the more generous the better really.
I agree with that, I just don't have the frame currently to test it, and would rather shorten the stroke on the shock if needed while I'm waiting for the frame to arrive.
I suppose I should probably just do that, better safe than sorry.
Yea, my rudimentary math says that 2.5mm of stroke is good for 7-8mm of travel. I just wonder if that's gonna cause me to smash into the seat tube.
Probably a little less extra travel, as the shock produces more travel at the wheel early in the stroke than at the bottom out end. Easiest way to check is to take the shock out, compress the rear end until something hits, then measure the length the shock would be at that point. I'd also be inclined to leave a little clearance between whatever two parts are going to hit first, to account for any frame flex. How much clearance you need depends on which parts are coming into contact, but the more generous the better really.
I agree with that, I just don't have the frame currently to test it, and would rather shorten the stroke on the shock if needed while I'm waiting for the frame to arrive.
I suppose I should probably just do that, better safe than sorry.
Probably a little less extra travel, as the shock produces more travel at the wheel early in the stroke than at the bottom out end. Easiest way to check is to take the shock out, compress the rear end until something hits, then measure the length the shock would be at that point. I'd also be inclined to leave a little clearance between whatever two parts are going to hit first, to account for any frame flex. How much clearance you need depends on which parts are coming into contact, but the more generous the better really.
I agree with that, I just don't have the frame currently to test it, and would rather shorten the stroke on the shock if needed while I'm waiting for the frame to arrive.
I suppose I should probably just do that, better safe than sorry.
I agree with that, I just don't have the frame currently to test it, and would rather shorten the stroke on the shock if needed while I'm waiting for the frame to arrive.
I suppose I should probably just do that, better safe than sorry.
What size rear wheel will you be running?
27.5
That's what I am running. I'll measure mine and let you know how much room I have.
So I pulled the spring off of my shock and completely compressed it and I feel the shock would need to compress another 20mm or so before causing issues.
I'm running it mullet and my rear tire was no where near my seat, the rocker link is two separate pieces so the rocker link won't hit. The bridge on the seat stay is very far from the seat tube. The bridge on the chainstay would have to rotate quite a bit to get close as well.
I think the first thing that would hit might would be the reservoir on your shock hitting the downtube depending on the shock you run. I've a Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate and still had an inch or two at full compression.
One thing that would come into play would be it lowering your BB height at full compression. At full compression on my set up and the cranks at north and south I was less than an inch from hitting the ground. I would imagine you'd be pretty close to the ground with more stroke.
But that is all I can tell. I'm no engineer and I would imagine there is a reason Trek went with 72.5 stroke vs 75 but I can't find one just in my garage. Hope this helps!
So I pulled the spring off of my shock and completely compressed it and I feel the shock would need to compress another 20mm or so before causing issues.
I'm running it mullet and my rear tire was no where near my seat, the rocker link is two separate pieces so the rocker link won't hit. The bridge on the seat stay is very far from the seat tube. The bridge on the chainstay would have to rotate quite a bit to get close as well.
I think the first thing that would hit might would be the reservoir on your shock hitting the downtube depending on the shock you run. I've a Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate and still had an inch or two at full compression.
One thing that would come into play would be it lowering your BB height at full compression. At full compression on my set up and the cranks at north and south I was less than an inch from hitting the ground. I would imagine you'd be pretty close to the ground with more stroke.
But that is all I can tell. I'm no engineer and I would imagine there is a reason Trek went with 72.5 stroke vs 75 but I can't find one just in my garage. Hope this helps!
You may not officially be an engineer, but it sounds like you could be easily enough. You have pretty effectively covered all the bases there. Piggyback to downtube is definitely a good call. Back in the day I had an old session (2013ish?) with a dent in the downtube from running the dhxrc4 ramp control wide open. Silly old Trek, its the shock they specced..
Probably much more clearance on the new HP frame, but still a thing to check as different shock piggybacks vary wildly in length.
As for Trek speccing 72.5 rather than 75, it's probably for no better reason than 200mm is traditional DH bike travel. But yes, still absolutely vital to check clearance on everything when the shock has been fitted.
Might be the first but I have a 2022 Session and an ABP pivot bearing is coming out of the frame. I have less than three park days on it and the bearing can be pressed in and out fairly easily. I've had a similar issue on my Remedy but it wasn't until after 6 years of riding. Curious if anyone else has had this issue?
Update: Trek warrantied the chainstay. Just took it into a shop and they took some pictures and Trek approved it. However I did end up fixing the bearing retention on my own as I had on my Remedy using Park Tool RC-1 Press Fit Retaining Compound. Just put a little bit in the frame and on the outside of the bearing and then pressed it in. Have had zero issues since.
So I pulled the spring off of my shock and completely compressed it and I feel the shock would need to compress another 20mm or so before causing issues.
I'm running it mullet and my rear tire was no where near my seat, the rocker link is two separate pieces so the rocker link won't hit. The bridge on the seat stay is very far from the seat tube. The bridge on the chainstay would have to rotate quite a bit to get close as well.
I think the first thing that would hit might would be the reservoir on your shock hitting the downtube depending on the shock you run. I've a Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate and still had an inch or two at full compression.
One thing that would come into play would be it lowering your BB height at full compression. At full compression on my set up and the cranks at north and south I was less than an inch from hitting the ground. I would imagine you'd be pretty close to the ground with more stroke.
But that is all I can tell. I'm no engineer and I would imagine there is a reason Trek went with 72.5 stroke vs 75 but I can't find one just in my garage. Hope this helps!
You may not officially be an engineer, but it sounds like you could be easily enough. You have pretty effectively covered all the bases there. Piggyback to downtube is definitely a good call. Back in the day I had an old session (2013ish?) with a dent in the downtube from running the dhxrc4 ramp control wide open. Silly old Trek, its the shock they specced..
Probably much more clearance on the new HP frame, but still a thing to check as different shock piggybacks vary wildly in length.
As for Trek speccing 72.5 rather than 75, it's probably for no better reason than 200mm is traditional DH bike travel. But yes, still absolutely vital to check clearance on everything when the shock has been fitted.
Appreciate that. Wild to hear you've had that piggyback issue before haha.
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