Nukeproof Owners Club

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Nukeproof Owners Club
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Posted: Nov 4, 2019 at 10:12 Quote
browner wrote:
maxwharin1 wrote:
Aside from any benefits/negatives from chainring sizes associated with climbing ability, what is the best size chainring for best suspension? I've seen mention of 30T working best with the mega?
Also interested in this. Has 30t got less Bob? Some of the suspension curve gurus on here may be able to chime in?

Bikes are usually designed around a certain chainring size and i think the best way to make a horst link pedal is to shoot for 100% antisquat at sag, or like what equates to zero antisquat. So that at sag your suspension is not being acted upon by the force in your chain.

Smaller chainring will give you more antisquat, so the bike may try to pull itself up out of sag when you pedal. Big chainring will pull it down into its travel.

The stock size is probably the best for pedaling.

Posted: Nov 4, 2019 at 10:18 Quote
Mine came with a 30t

Posted: Nov 4, 2019 at 11:15 Quote
I have 34 on mine, you are all weak Razz

Posted: Nov 4, 2019 at 12:19 Quote
It can become quite a rabbit hole as all aspects of suspension design are dependant on one another so yeah often people say (some guy named Iqbal a few posts back) a smaller chainring will firm up the rear end because as Skerby said it will pull the swing arm down, push weight forward and this can be perceived as better pedalling. Indeed in some instances it would be desirable.

But what you really want for ‘efficiency’ is neutrality and balance between anti squat and pedal kickback.
That smaller ring might feel quite efficient at a constant cadence and power on a smooth fire road then like hell when you’re trying to pedal over square edges like a rock garden or roots section.

The Mega doesn’t have a tonne of anti squat so people might tend toward a smaller chainring as the thing feels a bit more ‘active’ than their previous/ mates bikes when pedalling but in turn you’ll get more kickback from the smaller chainring.it may or may not be a tolerable trade off.


http://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/2015/11/nukeproof-mega-275-2016.html

In the end though the only way to know is to suck it and see, I’ve used 34, 32 and 30 and ovals and while there aren’t huge differences I still have my preference.

Slam the saddle forward and mash on a 34t and soar over everything Wink

Posted: Nov 4, 2019 at 13:46 Quote
FWIW I have 32 and it pedals really good at 25% sag. Going up a steep hill in open mode on the super deluxe the bike is basically static at 30% sag, maybe 1% travel bob, but basically unnoticeable.

+1 for slammed forward saddle, gets a little wheelie happy otherwise.

Posted: Nov 4, 2019 at 20:07 Quote
CRC has had my frame for 4 weeks now. Still no solution. 2months since first contact the day after it broke.

Posted: Nov 6, 2019 at 18:02 Quote
cl4l wrote:
CRC has had my frame for 4 weeks now. Still no solution. 2months since first contact the day after it broke.

their warranty department is very slow, took 4 months to get a issue with the shock that came on mine resolved

Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 10:28 Quote
Anyone mess with the rebound shims on their super deluxe?

I feel like I have the bike setup pretty good until I get into high speed chop. Running 25% percent sag, and the difference between +3 clicks of rebound and +4 clicks is huge. 3.5 clicks I think would make me much happier, but maybe I need to totally rethink setup AGAIN.

Rode the bike stock with 2 spacers 35% and couldnt keep my feet on the pedals or bottom ever. Tried one spacer at 30% feelin better so finally try 25% with no spacers and my feet stay on. And the bike feels amazing in some places, but the really high speed choppy stuff seems to upset it.

The rebound is visibly slow at +4, but I've tried +3 and it is pretty damn fast especially considering the high pressure. Should I stay at +4 and just add air until it feels good? Essentially tuning rebound with air pressure. I can't bottom as is unless I do something stupid that isnt fast.

I test at one of last years pro GRT race courses, it's steep and bumpy. These are all self powered laps too and I can only get 1.5 per day now that the sun goes down early.

Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 10:29 Quote
skerby wrote:
Anyone mess with the rebound shims on their super deluxe?

I feel like I have the bike setup pretty good until I get into high speed chop. Running 25% percent sag, and the difference between +3 clicks of rebound and +4 clicks is huge. 3.5 clicks I think would make me much happier, but maybe I need to totally rethink setup AGAIN.

Rode the bike stock with 2 spacers 35% and couldnt keep my feet on the pedals or bottom ever. Tried one spacer at 30% feelin better so finally try 25% with no spacers and my feet stay on. And the bike feels amazing in some places, but the really high speed choppy stuff seems to upset it.

The rebound is visibly slow at +4, but I've tried +3 and it is pretty damn fast especially considering the high pressure. Should I stay at +4 and just add air until it feels good? Essentially tuning rebound with air pressure. I can't bottom as is unless I do something stupid that isnt fast.

I test at one of last years pro GRT race courses, it's steep and bumpy. These are all self powered laps too and I can only get 1.5 per day now that the sun goes down early.
I’m having the exact same issue. The difference one click of rebound makes seems huge.

Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 15:36 Quote
Increasing resolution will have more to do with the adjustment rod then the shim stack. You should be tuning based on feel not on how much travel you're using. If you rarely see bottom that doesn't mean your shit is too stiff.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 8:11 Quote
Super deluxe and monarch plus use the same piston and the same style of rebound shim stack. It is preloaded with a ring shim, making the stack highly digressive. "Rapid recovery" is what RS calls it.

From what vorsprung said, the medium rebound tune doesn't even flow oil through the shim stack because of how much preload it has. Although I would bet that's a half true statement. If you are running high pressures (more tokens = higher pressures too) then it might become active on big hits.

Stock form, you basically have a port orfice rebound damper. Slowing it down causes packing (LSR issue caused by no oil flow through the shims) and speeding it up gets you bucked on big hits (too little rebound in general).

If you want to test it out and are comfortable with shock rebuilds, pull the ring shim out of the rebound stack and move the shim that was a centering shim for the ring up the stack. This will make the shim stack the main oil control point, instead of the adjuster. Rebound damping will now be more linear, instead of digressive. It will likely be too little damping though so you'll have to crank down the adjuster to slow everything down still, but now LSR will be proportionally fast enough to avoid packing since the shims are now active at lower speeds.

This made my Monarch+ significantly better anyway.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 8:26 Quote
Also, changing the oil viscosity can change how sensitive the adjusters are. Shim stack and port orfice dampers are impacted by viscosity differently so changing oil changes the relative control of each.

A lighter oil will make the adjuster have less relative impact, but at the same time will also reduce overall damping. Changing oil viscosity though will impact compression damping too which might not be desirable.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 9:09 Quote
MikeG156 wrote:
If you want to test it out and are comfortable with shock rebuilds, pull the ring shim out of the rebound stack and move the shim that was a centering shim for the ring up the stack.

I just happen to have a Monarch+ in bits right now so I’m gonna give this a try tup

Posted: Nov 10, 2019 at 18:53 Quote
I agree about the travel use thing. Definitely rides better with 25% than 35% sag, regardless of travel used. I would think this bike sucks for using like 140mm of travel on some rides, but in reality it kicks ass like that and a decent drop to flat can bottom anything.

Im gonna try adding some air to speed the rebound up before I tear this thing apart. I wonder why the rebound is confugured the way it is, it definitely does not work for me.


 
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