Tips on how to save weight

PB Forum :: BMX (20")
Tips on how to save weight
Author Message
flag free629ride
Posted: Dec 22, 2007 at 17:25 Quote
yaybikes wrote:
drill.

and you don't necessarily need Ti parts. Just lite ones. My bikes is near 22lbs, and the only thing Ti is the rear driver.

and remember. Aluminum is lighter then Ti
Im a tool and die maker and your wrong
flag rlee560
Posted: Dec 22, 2007 at 17:25 Quote
yaybikes wrote:
rlee560 wrote:
Do not drill or cut material off of your bike to make it lighter. This is the most retarded thing you can do. If you want your frame to be lighter....BUY A NEW ONE. The only people who do this are those who are new to riding. Anyone with half a brain or any experience will tell you this.

The minimal weight saved by cutting your bike into pieces is not worth it. It also looks HACK. Light bikes cost money. The lighter you want, the more money you have to spend.
hahahaha

If you know what your doing it will not look "hack" The whole reason a lot of people cut shit of their bike is so make it look smooth (IE. brake mounts, excess dropout, gyro tabs, seattube extensions,

oh, and BTW, I works at a shop, and my bike has to be one of the most "home modded" bikes around my area. It just takes someone WITH a brain to know where to cut and how.

Please read the title of this thread. Then read my post. This thread is about weight. My point was cutting and drilling are not the way to lose weight. Use a little common sense when posting. Obviously there are no absolutes.
flag snoppy647
Posted: Dec 22, 2007 at 17:27 Quote
BMX8000 wrote:
I'm probably not going to cut my bike apart so lets get of the topic of drilling holes in the frame and stuff. The only thing I'd do to my frame would be grind of the brake mounts.

So once again lets get of chopping up the frame

That is the only part of the frame i will only shave down.... brake mounts, ive never riddin a bmx with brakes
flag BMX8000
Posted: Dec 22, 2007 at 17:28 Quote
obviously u guys didn't read my last post. I NOT going to cut my frame apart so lets end the discussin on cutting and drilling the frame if i wanted to do that i'd just buy a grim reaper.
flag drewfunk
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 14:23 Quote
going brakeless shaves nearly a pound, i was surprised at this. cutting your seat post can save like half a pound. and lighter tubes and tires can save a bundle also.
flag fufalump
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 15:18 Quote
Try to save on rotational weight if possible. From there try to go from the outside in. But basically, short of some small things you can do at home, the only and best way to save significant amounts of weight is to buy and replace parts currently on your bike.
flag ron-burgundy
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 15:28 Quote
for drilling out rims where would be the best spot, in between the spokes?...
flag ride66
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 15:30 Quote
norcoman-1314 wrote:
for drilling out rims where would be the best spot, in between the spokes?...

Bad idea to drill an aluminium rim. The heat generated will weaken the area surrounding if you are not using an amount of cooling liquid. Also, you do not have an oven to age the material in the case your are not using cooling liquid.
flag ron-burgundy
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 15:31 Quote
i was just going to take my drill and poke holes in it...
flag ride66
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 15:44 Quote
norcoman-1314 wrote:
i was just going to take my drill and poke holes in it...

It will heat too much according to me. Not going to explain it in details, just pick the course "materials of the engineer" at University and you'll understand. Basically heat will affect the material and it will become weaker. It's the same effect than a weld that's the reason they put the material in ovens just after ; to artificially age them so they will get their full strenght back. If you drill and not using a lubricant, it will heat and weaken the alloy.
flag fufalump
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 17:00 Quote
Well from what i learned, heat treatment on aluminium doesnt do NEARLY as much effect then it does on steel. So heat treated aluminium is used much more rarely, as it doesnt hold as much benefits.

Also, the amount of heat generated by drilling a hole(provided you have a sharp drill bit, proper rpm and feed rate) it should generate relatively low temperatures. Well below anything that could be considered to affect the heat treatment.

Sure if you ran a dull bit on it for like 5 minutes a hole, i might be conserned about some effect. But on a rim thats usually double walled, with holes in it already, laced up, you wont have a problem. Just do a max of a 1/4 inch hole between all the spoke holes if you're gonna do it.

My tip? take a nail and punch a little prick/dent into the rim to guide the drillbit, otherwise it will wander and be hard to control where the hole goes. Make a fast, clean cut with the bit, making sure its sharp and at the proper rpm (formulas for that c an be found on the internet easily, cutting speed times 4/ over the diameter is the most common one CSx4/dia)

If you can do all that, with possibly some coolant(water should be fine for the job) and i wouldnt worry about it. Just keep in mind to make sure you use a good rim strip after, clean up all the messy edges(file/sand paper) and make good cuts. Oh, and do NOT drill on the weld/seam. Thats a bad one to do. The rest should be fine, but thats a bad place to drill.
flag ron-burgundy
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 17:04 Quote
what about useing snow instead of water...there seems to be plenty around Blank Stare would that cool it too quickly?...
flag fufalump
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 17:11 Quote
Doubt it. Like i said, aluminium isnt NEARLY as tempermental as steel. Remember, all your stems/sprockets/pedals had to be machined at some point right? An endmill or planer mill will generate MUCH more heat in the part then a 1/4 inch drill bit will on a 3 mil drill depth of cut. I guarentee you stems arent heat treated, and they are machined much heavier then what you plan to do. If you drilled them in the snow, i think that could work out nicely for you.

Just remember to plan it out nicely, put starting punch marks with a nail in, then drill away. Just go slow and make a good job. remember to avoid the seam.
flag konarider27
Posted: Dec 23, 2007 at 19:40 Quote
run tubeless.
road bike chains.
displace all grease and lubrication.
run 17/6 gearing. less chain the better.
remove top cap, seat, headset spacers, remove some of the balls in the berings. take the seal off the berings. trim dropouts. remove spokes and run 28, 4g spokes. only run 2 pawls in your driver. file down tires. trim axles. i hope it helps.

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.013499
Mobile Version of Website