Rockshox reverb

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Posted: Nov 3, 2016 at 14:54 Quote
I find the thing with all these droppers is they are magnets for trail shite. Every time you drop, whatever crap has flown off your wheel makes its way into the seals. I use a bit of inner tube (remember them) to hang down over the seals, it may look shite, but stops shite. Had no problems in a couple of years now.

Posted: Nov 3, 2016 at 23:49 Quote
That's. it the problem with the reverb though. Mine broke with in like 4 rides in the middle of summer! I would rather not cover the shaft, anything that's in contact with it could scratch it which would really balls the seals up. It only takes some grit and a few hours riding in side that inner tube to cause irreparable damage. Super seals are designed to deal with the shit that's flung up at the shaft.

Posted: Apr 29, 2017 at 21:42 Quote
Just curious what the average price everyone pays for a full rebuild. The parts kit is around 50-60 bucks, with less than 2$ of fluid. it takes me about 40 min to do the work.... I was feeling lazy the other day, and was quoted 180$ from the LBS.

Not awful I guess ... but I figured it would be closer to 120-130. Just curious. cheers.

Posted: Apr 30, 2017 at 10:37 Quote
So my 1st Reverb stealth that surprised me is over 2 years old developed the whole sag thing it went from fine to having about 1.5" sag seemingly over night however I think it was brought on by the bike being lifted about by the saddle when not fully extended.

Anyway read loads and 99% of people say you have to lump it and pay for a service at in the uk about £80 once postages is factored in. I read the sag is cause by air getting in with the oil so I thought why not I will 'bleed' the actual post, maybe the 1% are right and it fixes it, I've read lots from shop mechanics saying bull you can't do this you need a full service kit etc. Well it does and you don't :-). How long it'll last I don't know but it was simple once I figure it out and if it goes again in 6months I will just bleed it again as it's no more than an hours job at most.

So remove post from bike, disconnect the hose, remove saddle, let pressure out. Remove C clip, push post down on the ground with the saddle clamp on the ground, the seals will pop out. Then remove silver 'poppet valve' cover (do this simply by using a 11mm wrench and hold the bit it screws into at the other end with an 8mm). Do this carefully and be ready for the poppet valve to fly out. Mine didn't it needed a bit of encouragement by moving the post, then it did followed by a fountain of bubbly oil that looked more like soap bubbles. I cycled the piston and got all I could out. Then I extended the post and inside tube and poured in new reverb oil and very gently cycled the inner assembly, this was hard to do smoothly but after a bit no bubbles were coming out. So then you need to set the oil level. I had a syringe and cut the inside straw out of a bottle of bathroom cleaner that fit down the pipe the poppet valve rod goes down. My rod assembly was 186mm being a 380mm post. I marked that on my straw and sucked out 186mm depth of oil. Greased the old o rings on the poppet rod assembly slotted it back in, re attached the silver bit, pulled the outer post all the way back up C clip back in, added 250psi, poured reverb oil in the silver bit covering poppet valve, re attached hose. Job done it all now works perfect, fast smooth operation Zero sag all rock solid.

Posted: May 2, 2017 at 12:21 Quote
Thanks for posting, mines starting to sag a little after 2 years of faultless dropping. May get a service kit anyway for £15, just in case anything looks like it needs swapping out while it's apart.

Posted: Jan 22, 2018 at 4:33 Quote
StevieJB wrote:
So my 1st Reverb stealth that surprised me is over 2 years old developed the whole sag thing it went from fine to having about 1.5" sag seemingly over night however I think it was brought on by the bike being lifted about by the saddle when not fully extended.

Anyway read loads and 99% of people say you have to lump it and pay for a service at in the uk about £80 once postages is factored in. I read the sag is cause by air getting in with the oil so I thought why not I will 'bleed' the actual post, maybe the 1% are right and it fixes it, I've read lots from shop mechanics saying bull you can't do this you need a full service kit etc. Well it does and you don't :-). How long it'll last I don't know but it was simple once I figure it out and if it goes again in 6months I will just bleed it again as it's no more than an hours job at most.

So remove post from bike, disconnect the hose, remove saddle, let pressure out. Remove C clip, push post down on the ground with the saddle clamp on the ground, the seals will pop out. Then remove silver 'poppet valve' cover (do this simply by using a 11mm wrench and hold the bit it screws into at the other end with an 8mm). Do this carefully and be ready for the poppet valve to fly out. Mine didn't it needed a bit of encouragement by moving the post, then it did followed by a fountain of bubbly oil that looked more like soap bubbles. I cycled the piston and got all I could out. Then I extended the post and inside tube and poured in new reverb oil and very gently cycled the inner assembly, this was hard to do smoothly but after a bit no bubbles were coming out. So then you need to set the oil level. I had a syringe and cut the inside straw out of a bottle of bathroom cleaner that fit down the pipe the poppet valve rod goes down. My rod assembly was 186mm being a 380mm post. I marked that on my straw and sucked out 186mm depth of oil. Greased the old o rings on the poppet rod assembly slotted it back in, re attached the silver bit, pulled the outer post all the way back up C clip back in, added 250psi, poured reverb oil in the silver bit covering poppet valve, re attached hose. Job done it all now works perfect, fast smooth operation Zero sag all rock solid.


Hi, i'm interested by your solution. I saw something that seems equivalent there :
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/reverb-repair-one-for-the-fettlers

Using the reverb bleed tool eases the filling part. However, how hard is it to remove the valve ? does the valve always fly out in the air we you remove the C-Clip ?

How did that fix held ?

Posted: Jan 22, 2018 at 11:06 Quote
Hi all, hope you can help me.

My girlfriend has a 430mm long 125mm travel Reverb A2.

Currently, 125mm is not enough to get comfortable pedalling when it's slammed into the frame, and when pulled out enough for that, descending isn't 100% comfortable.

Judging by the above specs, this model should have a travel limiter, correct? (first seen on page 19 of the latest manual). The fact you can get a 150mm drop post in 430mm also backs this up (I think).

Anyway, I haven't found any explicit information regarding removing the travel limiter to give me access to more travel (only people wanting to shorten it). From what I can tell, the limiter sits at the bottom of the inner shaft, and that prevents the post sliding out to it's full potential when raised. Can anyone back me up on this?

Thanks!

Posted: Jan 22, 2018 at 14:14 Quote
My post is still working perfectly from when I wrote this guide on bleeding. The poppet valve just be aware that it may have pressure behind it and the bubbly old oil my fly out champagne style. It wasn't something I was expecting so thought I'd warn anyone who's going to give it a go, I.e. Don't open it in the living room.

Posted: Jan 22, 2018 at 18:20 Quote
To change the travel, I would imagine you need to replace the upper post, the main shaft, the ifp tube and the poppet shaft. I am basing this on the service parts, as they sell these parts specific to the travel of each post... You would also need a rebuild kit.So about 300$ in parts.

Posted: Jan 22, 2018 at 23:15 Quote
StevieJB wrote:
My post is still working perfectly from when I wrote this guide on bleeding. The poppet valve just be aware that it may have pressure behind it and the bubbly old oil my fly out champagne style. It wasn't something I was expecting so thought I'd warn anyone who's going to give it a go, I.e. Don't open it in the living room.

That's what I'm gonna do since my living room doubles up as my garage Smile
What's the trick, put a rag on the top of the post ?

Posted: Jan 23, 2018 at 6:13 Quote
Yes rag over the top will do the job.

Posted: Jan 25, 2018 at 5:45 Quote
StevieJB wrote:
Yes rag over the top will do the job.

Did you perform it on a Reverb Stealth ? In the Sram service Manual they only show the version with the air valve at the bottom of the seatpost. On the stealth the air valve is at the top.
So you don't need to remove the seatpost from the frame or remove the command hose ?

Posted: Jan 25, 2018 at 10:25 Quote
I did it on the stealth and yes you need to remove the hose. The silver bit that covers the poppet valve is what the hose connects to.

Posted: Nov 2, 2018 at 13:45 Quote
I wouldn't touch one with a 10 ft barge pole. Had one lasted all of 6 rides, 15 hours. I'm a clyde ~280 all kitted up and the main post bent. Have an older Thomson that I have run for at least 2 1/2 years with no issues

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