Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Oct 5, 2015 at 20:30 Quote
siderealwall2 wrote:
sterlingmagnum wrote:
millpill wrote:
How much less slippy will my brake lever become if I use carbon paste? I have it torqued to 3nm but its still slipping.

On the bar? Cant you just give a righty tighty??
https://s3.amazonaws.com/lowres.cartoonstock.com/professions-worker-working-builders-build-construction-ggm070301_low.jpg


Pretty sure that would void the crap out of the warranty
Ya known, 9000nm is where its at. Especially with a carbon bar


Posted: Oct 5, 2015 at 20:36 Quote
millpill wrote:
siderealwall2 wrote:
sterlingmagnum wrote:


On the bar? Cant you just give a righty tighty??
https://s3.amazonaws.com/lowres.cartoonstock.com/professions-worker-working-builders-build-construction-ggm070301_low.jpg


Pretty sure that would void the crap out of the warranty
Ya known, 9000nm is where its at. Especially with a carbon bar


http://www.structuretech1.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/A-better-allen-wrench.jpg

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 1:47 Quote
ok, heres the dilemma, I have a 2013 FOX CTD rear shock (not sure which) and had been running with 2013 CTD Evo Shocks. I have been running both off a dual lever. long story short, rocky trail, crash, kashima part now spotted,

my question is will the same lever run on 2014 forks? I have ordered 2014 TALAS CTD Fit and intend to convert to remote. I cant get any kind of answer from fox and a new 2014 lever wont fit as I am running a 3x10 with a dropper post (plus $800 on the forks is enough without another $80 from the bank account)

Any help appreciated, Thanks.

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 2:59 Quote
millpill wrote:
How much less slippy will my brake lever become if I use carbon paste? I have it torqued to 3nm but its still slipping.

Remove bolt
Clean
Grease bolt threads and under head liberally
Re-fit
Torque

If it still slips, try carbon paste.

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 3:11 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
millpill wrote:
How much less slippy will my brake lever become if I use carbon paste? I have it torqued to 3nm but its still slipping.

Remove bolt
Clean
Grease bolt threads and under head liberally
Re-fit
Torque

If it still slips, try carbon paste.

carbon bars or alu?

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 4:53 Quote
so any options other than these?

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/rockshox-new-maxle-lite02-600x450.jpg

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 9:00 Quote
UK Mtb crew....

when assembling a bike, what grease do you all think is best?

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 9:03 Quote
redfire wrote:
UK Mtb crew....

when assembling a bike, what grease do you all think is best?

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 9:08 Quote
redfire wrote:
UK Mtb crew....

when assembling a bike, what grease do you all think is best?

depends where, any grease, anti sieze and low strength thread lock will do really

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 9:14 Quote
headset, bottom bracket etc.....

assembling from frame up..

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 9:20 Quote
redfire wrote:
headset, bottom bracket etc.....

assembling from frame up..

grease for high torque and lubrication. Thread lock for smaller bolts with lower torque, torque sensitive things, or where I want things to not come loose from vibration and other loads that could loosen them (ex. disc brakes, RD pulleys that don't have retaining clips, crank bolts, etc). Anti seize for dissimilar metal contact, that's prone where I don't exactly need lube, but I don't want the parts to stick together or corrode.

maybe some carbon paste as well in stem/bars or seatpost etc.

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 9:31 Quote
el-booto wrote:
ddstuntjump wrote:
el-booto wrote:
Sounds like the lower linkage axle could be a thou too wide, just shave a bit off it with a file or on a piece of 60grit wet and dry, that will pull it together a bit more and will grab hold of the eyelet better

Either that or more sinister: the shock eyelet is a thou oversize (eyelet ID should be 15.02mm or 19/32") in which case you are going to have to change the shock or at least the rebound eyelet to fix it

So how bad would it be to ride if the eyelet is a bit big? Any links to where I can buy a new rebound eyelet?

Not the end of the world, if you are going to replace it go to your LBS, that's not a job to undertake unless you know what you are doing with suspension

Just had a thought...if the lower eyelet is messed up, could it potentially work to have a machinist bore it out a tiny bit more and then make a custom DU bushing type of thing that would reduce it back to the correct size? Or would this mess with the shock/bike somehow even if it was done cleanly? Also how much do those new rebound eyelets cost?

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 10:05 Quote
iffy wrote:
so any options other than these?

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/rockshox-new-maxle-lite02-600x450.jpg


Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.toyhalloffame.org/sites/www.toyhalloffame.org/files/toys/square/stick_0.png

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 10:52 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
iffy wrote:
so any options other than these?

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/rockshox-new-maxle-lite02-600x450.jpg


Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.toyhalloffame.org/sites/www.toyhalloffame.org/files/toys/square/stick_0.png
I find it generally helps to not have cross sections taken out of my axles

Posted: Oct 6, 2015 at 11:26 Quote
lol so I'll take that as a no then... twig lloks like a nice upgrade though hahaha

top version are not too bad anyway Smile

cheers


 
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