Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 5:48 Quote
hey guys and girls, Headsets: I've noticed some play that can no longer be tightened out on the top assembly of an old and cheap FSA Pig DH 1 1/8th and I'm guessing the bearings have given out- disassembly shows nothing odd/no grittiness etc but I can't eliminate the slight forward and back knocking.. so can I replace the top assembly with a Hope unit (as they offer the separate top/bottom cups) without causing any issues? The bottom bearings seem sound on the existing FSA unit. Is it ok to mix headset types like this?

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 6:05 Quote
nickkk wrote:
hey guys and girls, Headsets: I've noticed some play that can no longer be tightened out on the top assembly of an old and cheap FSA Pig DH 1 1/8th and I'm guessing the bearings have given out- disassembly shows nothing odd/no grittiness etc but I can't eliminate the slight forward and back knocking.. so can I replace the top assembly with a Hope unit (as they offer the separate top/bottom cups) without causing any issues? The bottom bearings seem sound on the existing FSA unit. Is it ok to mix headset types like this?

Will be fine to mix but why not just replace it all at once? If the top is gone, chances are the bottom will be heading the same way.

Are you sure you have the correct ammount of headset spacers too? You may need a 2-3mm spacer in there and it could fix your problem.

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 6:13 Quote
horny-norris wrote:
nickkk wrote:
hey guys and girls, Headsets: I've noticed some play that can no longer be tightened out on the top assembly of an old and cheap FSA Pig DH 1 1/8th and I'm guessing the bearings have given out- disassembly shows nothing odd/no grittiness etc but I can't eliminate the slight forward and back knocking.. so can I replace the top assembly with a Hope unit (as they offer the separate top/bottom cups) without causing any issues? The bottom bearings seem sound on the existing FSA unit. Is it ok to mix headset types like this?

Will be fine to mix but why not just replace it all at once? If the top is gone, chances are the bottom will be heading the same way.

Are you sure you have the correct ammount of headset spacers too? You may need a 2-3mm spacer in there and it could fix your problem.

cheers for that. I'm suspecting the top has developed play ahead of the bottom because the top assembly is alloy and the bottom is cro-mo thus over time, the softer alloy may wear faster? as you can tell im not an engineer but it was a thought. I have the correct spacers installed but pre-loading the headset has in the last couple of months become difficult-either far to slack or to tight. I can't seem to preload the headset effectively. you can feel the uppermost bearing moving when you do the rocking test.. im pretty certain the star nut is level etc but i cant getting happening!

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 7:36 Quote
nickkk wrote:
horny-norris wrote:
nickkk wrote:
hey guys and girls, Headsets: I've noticed some play that can no longer be tightened out on the top assembly of an old and cheap FSA Pig DH 1 1/8th and I'm guessing the bearings have given out- disassembly shows nothing odd/no grittiness etc but I can't eliminate the slight forward and back knocking.. so can I replace the top assembly with a Hope unit (as they offer the separate top/bottom cups) without causing any issues? The bottom bearings seem sound on the existing FSA unit. Is it ok to mix headset types like this?

Will be fine to mix but why not just replace it all at once? If the top is gone, chances are the bottom will be heading the same way.

Are you sure you have the correct ammount of headset spacers too? You may need a 2-3mm spacer in there and it could fix your problem.

cheers for that. I'm suspecting the top has developed play ahead of the bottom because the top assembly is alloy and the bottom is cro-mo thus over time, the softer alloy may wear faster? as you can tell im not an engineer but it was a thought. I have the correct spacers installed but pre-loading the headset has in the last couple of months become difficult-either far to slack or to tight. I can't seem to preload the headset effectively. you can feel the uppermost bearing moving when you do the rocking test.. im pretty certain the star nut is level etc but i cant getting happening!

How much space do you have between the top of the steerer and the top of your stem when it is on the steerer?

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 8:23 Quote
christopheryang wrote:
pqiu wrote:
I have 11 to 32 teeth cassette on my bike. I think to replace it with 11 to 36 in order to increase the hill climbing ability. Do I need to change the chain to accomodate the new cassette. By the way both the cassettes are 10 speeds. Thank you advance for your help!

yes.

The reason being, the existing chain will then be too short. When you get the new cassette/chain. Put the chain around the largest front ring and largest back ring, without going through the derailleur, pull it tight, then add two links to the length, that's how long it should be.

How old are the current front rings/chain? If they're worn too much, you might have issues with a new chain without replacing the front rings as well. Just a heads up, if you do find you're having issues.

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 9:29 Quote
Does anyone know if FOX will be offering the new 2017 Float X2 2-position lever as an aftermarket part/add-on for the 2016 X2?
Article just states it will be an aftermarket item for new shocks...

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/fox-announces-2017-lineup-details.html

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 9:33 Quote
geezracer wrote:
Does anyone know if FOX will be offering the new 2017 Float X2 2-position lever as an aftermarket part/add-on for the 2016 X2?
Article just states it will be an aftermarket item for new shocks...

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/fox-announces-2017-lineup-details.html

Says right on the page that they will be. Will be available as an upgrade kit for any X2 shock. I had thought about wait for this version because it was announce a while ago, but I NEVER remember to use the climb switch anyway on any suspension, so why wait and why pay more. Razz

Fox 2017

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 9:36 Quote
samael wrote:
geezracer wrote:
Does anyone know if FOX will be offering the new 2017 Float X2 2-position lever as an aftermarket part/add-on for the 2016 X2?
Article just states it will be an aftermarket item for new shocks...

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/fox-announces-2017-lineup-details.html

Says right on the page that they will be. Will be available as an upgrade kit for any X2 shock.


Ah, thanks...guess I was too excited and missed that somehow!
Yeah, I read about the prototypes, but hadn't seen anything since.
The CS is the main reason I went back to the Monarch...

...and now I wait! Drool

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 9:37 Quote
I have a road bike that has has a shifting problem. Just was about to go out on a ride and noticed in was not shifting into the 4 largest cogs. The shifting for the other 6 was fine. Thought it might be an issue with the cable, and the cable was a bit frayed. Have not noticed anything wrong with the shifting the last couple of weeks. Do I just need to replace the derailleur cable, or is there another problem I have?

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 10:48 Quote
I need a bit of help. I want to build new rear wheel and for the spoke length I got 254.5mm. What length should I get 254mm or 256mm (I can't find 255mm anywhere)? I'll really appreciate you're help!

Thanks
Emils

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 10:51 Quote
EmilsV wrote:
I need a bit of help. I want to build new rear wheel and for the spoke length I got 254.5mm. What length should I get 254mm or 256mm (I can't find 255mm anywhere)? I'll really appreciate you're help!

Thanks
Emils

Go with 254. I just went through this. The calculator told me 182.2 and 180.8. I bought all 182s figuring it would be fine but they were too long. They thread locked on all the nipples and couldn't get enough tension. 181s were special order and expensive. Ended up ordering 180s for the short side, which were fine. The 182s were fine for the longs side.

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 10:59 Quote
RyanWensley wrote:
nickkk wrote:
horny-norris wrote:


Will be fine to mix but why not just replace it all at once? If the top is gone, chances are the bottom will be heading the same way.

Are you sure you have the correct ammount of headset spacers too? You may need a 2-3mm spacer in there and it could fix your problem.

cheers for that. I'm suspecting the top has developed play ahead of the bottom because the top assembly is alloy and the bottom is cro-mo thus over time, the softer alloy may wear faster? as you can tell im not an engineer but it was a thought. I have the correct spacers installed but pre-loading the headset has in the last couple of months become difficult-either far to slack or to tight. I can't seem to preload the headset effectively. you can feel the uppermost bearing moving when you do the rocking test.. im pretty certain the star nut is level etc but i cant getting happening!

How much space do you have between the top of the steerer and the top of your stem when it is on the steerer?

It's a DM stem set up at the moment. The depth of the steerer below the uppermost stem spacer I am using is about 3/4mm. Enough to preload I believe. If I change brand of top headset assembly (to Hope) I think the stack height will be a few mm more. I think he difference between my current headset and he Hope is only a few mm. What you thinking? Do you reckon I need a greater depth between the top cap and the steerer tube?

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 11:11 Quote
nickkk wrote:
RyanWensley wrote:
nickkk wrote:


cheers for that. I'm suspecting the top has developed play ahead of the bottom because the top assembly is alloy and the bottom is cro-mo thus over time, the softer alloy may wear faster? as you can tell im not an engineer but it was a thought. I have the correct spacers installed but pre-loading the headset has in the last couple of months become difficult-either far to slack or to tight. I can't seem to preload the headset effectively. you can feel the uppermost bearing moving when you do the rocking test.. im pretty certain the star nut is level etc but i cant getting happening!

How much space do you have between the top of the steerer and the top of your stem when it is on the steerer?

It's a DM stem set up at the moment. The depth of the steerer below the uppermost stem spacer I am using is about 3/4mm. Enough to preload I believe. If I change brand of top headset assembly (to Hope) I think the stack height will be a few mm more. I think he difference between my current headset and he Hope is only a few mm. What you thinking?
add another spacer and see what happens.

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 11:51 Quote
Nobble wrote:
nickkk wrote:
RyanWensley wrote:


How much space do you have between the top of the steerer and the top of your stem when it is on the steerer?

It's a DM stem set up at the moment. The depth of the steerer below the uppermost stem spacer I am using is about 3/4mm. Enough to preload I believe. If I change brand of top headset assembly (to Hope) I think the stack height will be a few mm more. I think he difference between my current headset and he Hope is only a few mm. What you thinking?
add another spacer and see what happens.

Tried that a few times with different heights above the cut steerer. No change. The weird thing is that the top headset assembly when you remove the crown and stem, exhibits no play between the seals etc but when re assembled, the play fore and aft is present during preloading the top cap... I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong when preloading the bearing but I normally unweight the front wheel/fork a little to improve alignment while tightening things down but there's no change. It's either to stiff and tight or there's play and small amounts of knocking.

Posted: Apr 12, 2016 at 11:54 Quote
nickkk wrote:
Nobble wrote:
nickkk wrote:


It's a DM stem set up at the moment. The depth of the steerer below the uppermost stem spacer I am using is about 3/4mm. Enough to preload I believe. If I change brand of top headset assembly (to Hope) I think the stack height will be a few mm more. I think he difference between my current headset and he Hope is only a few mm. What you thinking?
add another spacer and see what happens.

Tried that a few times with different heights above the cut steerer. No change. The weird thing is that the top headset assembly when you remove the crown and stem, exhibits no play between the seals etc but when re assembled, the play fore and aft is present during preloading the top cap... I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong when preloading the bearing but I normally unweight the front wheel/fork a little to improve alignment while tightening things down but there's no change. It's either to stiff and tight or there's play and small amounts of knocking.
It's deffo not the cup moving in the frame?


 
Copyright © 2000 - 2020. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.009412
Mobile Version of Website