check that a gorrila has not been left unattended to tighten the preload bolts.
Hmm. Obviously I don't really want to immediately take them apart as they're new and not even on the bike yet.. I've no way of knowing if they've been over enthusiastic with tightening them but I had read previously that Penthouse pedals can be a little stiff but wanted some more evidence really... anyone else got any input on the MK pedals new?
well if adjusting the preload is a problem for you...
either way nearly everything comes out the factory without being properly lubed/assembled IMO.
I do it as a matter of course with everything.
Sure I hear you that can often be the case. Adjusting a pedal preload isn't beyond my wit it turns out so I'm not sure what that comment is about.. however, seeing as this is a market leading £100 pedal, bought largely on a word of mouth solid reputation, that comes with NO assembly/servicing info (an observation NOT criticism) in the plain black retail box... I think it's a fair question based on a first impression of the apparent tightness compared to any other pedal I've ever seen, owned or handled before in 20 years riding a bike. The previous comment addressed it so cheers.
They should loosen up a little after a few rides. They're meant to be a little tight and not spin round and round. Like my Hope pedals when new only spun round once if that. Now maybe they spin twice. It stops you putting your feel on the ends of the pedals and slipping off.
Cheers, these certainly can't even be rotated by hand. Had to stick an 8mm in the end to get the axle to move. They feel smooth, just tight. Not like a bound bearing though so as you say I'm sure they will loosen.
Hmm. Obviously I don't really want to immediately take them apart as they're new and not even on the bike yet.. I've no way of knowing if they've been over enthusiastic with tightening them but I had read previously that Penthouse pedals can be a little stiff but wanted some more evidence really... anyone else got any input on the MK pedals new?
well if adjusting the preload is a problem for you...
either way nearly everything comes out the factory without being properly lubed/assembled IMO.
I do it as a matter of course with everything.
Sure I hear you that can often be the case. Adjusting a pedal preload isn't beyond my wit it turns out so I'm not sure what that comment is about.. however, seeing as this is a market leading £100 pedal, bought largely on a word of mouth solid reputation, that comes with NO assembly/servicing info (an observation NOT criticism) in the plain black retail box... I think it's a fair question based on a first impression of the apparent tightness compared to any other pedal I've ever seen, owned or handled before in 20 years riding a bike. The previous comment addressed it so cheers.
brand new pair of podium 2's recently, 2 muddy rides=bearings toast, took them apart and surprise surprise f*ck all grease in the bearings and loads all over the spindle where it does sweet FA.
new fox forks, guess how much splash in the lowers..
etc.
if you need a spanner to rotate a bearing I would be just a wee bit suspicious.
Gripping the threads of the axel is not enough to turn the axel in the pedal body, I don't have to crank on the Allen to get it moving though don't get me wrong but there is an even resistance. Both pedals feel identical- it's not that one is significantly different. And as I mention, they do feel smooth just a little stiff, certainly more so than I was expecting. Like I said, I don't know if it's just a characteristic of the Penthouse model or not.
I sprayed the side wall with soapy water to see if there were any leaks and it's foaming where the air is getting through. There is also a blister, but it's where the WTB logo is printed on the tyre, so I assume it's just air getting through the side wall and lifting the rubbery stuff that the logo is printed with.
I finally bought some carbon handlebars. Just wondering if there is anything different I need to do when installing them. Carbon paste? Proper torque value for stem bolts?
I finally bought some carbon handlebars. Just wondering if there is anything different I need to do when installing them. Carbon paste? Proper torque value for stem bolts?
always adhere to manufacturer's torque spec; use isopropyl alcohol to clean and make sure all clamps are carbon bar compatible.
I sprayed the side wall with soapy water to see if there were any leaks and it's foaming where the air is getting through. There is also a blister, but it's where the WTB logo is printed on the tyre, so I assume it's just air getting through the side wall and lifting the rubbery stuff that the logo is printed with.
Warranty that tire.
Sir yes sir.
I've had it happen to Schwäble tyres before usually by the second time I try and seal them it stops coming out the side.
I finally bought some carbon handlebars. Just wondering if there is anything different I need to do when installing them. Carbon paste? Proper torque value for stem bolts?
carefully round off any sharp edges on stem and lever clamps where they contact the bars paste is good and grease the bolt threads
Hey I just ordered a Meta AM 4.2, it will be my first real bike so I'm super excited.
I want to do the assembly and maintenance myself to save money and because I like working on my own stuff. What are the most important tools and such that I will need? I have most basic tools like allen wrenches etc, I've seen some people mention a small torque wrench for things like bars and stems, Is that necessary?
Also, I figure it would be a good idea to check the linkage bolts as well. Will I need a torque wrench or will making sure they're reasonably tight by hand be enough.
I'm looking to get something Cane Creek for my Kona Process 153. Does anyone know if its possible? I'm kinda confused on what to do in terms of mounting hardware. I'm buying used btw. Thanks.
I'm looking to get something Cane Creek for my Kona Process 153. Does anyone know if its possible? I'm kinda confused on what to do in terms of mounting hardware. I'm buying used btw. Thanks.