Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag Nobble
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 16:13 Quote
Freerideguy14 wrote:
Any possibly know of a way to fill a Float X2 with oil without having all of the tools fox requires? My rebound dial went all wonky on me yesterday and the LSR and HSR would spin in sync and I had zero rebound damping whatsoever. I think I fixed the dial, I took it out and saw some chipped metal which obviously isn't good but it works as it should have now. I just lost a ton of oil when removing the rebound dial and have no way to get oil back in there, so I'm not sure if I actually fixed the dial or not.
IFP will be messed up, it's probably gonna need to be sent in.
flag arapp14
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 16:16 Quote
How so will it be messed up? I found a manual on removing the adjustment dials and it said to purge the IFP then just simply fill it back up with my shock pump. Pretty weird to me being it was originally charged with nitrogen...
flag spencer81
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 16:27 Quote
silverfish1974 wrote:
Joshamee wrote:
Hey I just ordered a Meta AM 4.2, it will be my first real bike so I'm super excited.

I want to do the assembly and maintenance myself to save money and because I like working on my own stuff. What are the most important tools and such that I will need? I have most basic tools like allen wrenches etc, I've seen some people mention a small torque wrench for things like bars and stems, Is that necessary?

Also, I figure it would be a good idea to check the linkage bolts as well. Will I need a torque wrench or will making sure they're reasonably tight by hand be enough.

A tourque wrench is not necessary for general components and a cheap tourque wrench could do more harm than good. But for suspension bolts maybe a tourque wrench would be a good idea. I'd buy a decent one though and I'd say atleast 100 clams for a good one.

Got my "good" ones from Halfords, they are made by another company and are actually really good, and less than a 100, though it starts at 8nm so only really good for bb on a bike
flag oldmanDan
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 16:45 Quote
Freerideguy14 wrote:
How so will it be messed up? I found a manual on removing the adjustment dials and it said to purge the IFP then just simply fill it back up with my shock pump. Pretty weird to me being it was originally charged with nitrogen...

And air is 78% nitrogen....
It won't make much difference
flag cmcrawfo
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 16:55 Quote
"You Don't need a torque Wrench"

"Air is the same as nitrogen"

I thought this forum was for mechanics. Not hacks.

A while a go, someone even said facing tools are not important tools for a quality shop to have.

Maybe we could start a hack mechanic question thread, for when you just need to scab some shit together.
flag melias24
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 17:18 Quote
melias24 wrote:
Hey guys, so my lower linkage on my 2014 Trance SX has massive play. But the issue is that the bolt is FT (the one that also holds the rear shock in place down the bottom). I have tried so hard to loosen it but just can't get it. I have pretty much wrecked the bolt. Any ideas?

No one has any ideas?
flag cmcrawfo
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 17:29 Quote
melias24 wrote:
melias24 wrote:
Hey guys, so my lower linkage on my 2014 Trance SX has massive play. But the issue is that the bolt is FT (the one that also holds the rear shock in place down the bottom). I have tried so hard to loosen it but just can't get it. I have pretty much wrecked the bolt. Any ideas?

No one has any ideas?

Drill the bolt out.

.... or try an easy out kit. You can also try to epoxy an allen key into the bolt or try and jam a torx in there.
flag rclugnut
O+
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 17:30 Quote
melias24 wrote:
melias24 wrote:
Hey guys, so my lower linkage on my 2014 Trance SX has massive play. But the issue is that the bolt is FT (the one that also holds the rear shock in place down the bottom). I have tried so hard to loosen it but just can't get it. I have pretty much wrecked the bolt. Any ideas?

No one has any ideas?

without pics it's hard to say, i'm not familiar with the hardware on that particular bike. Usual suspects for hardware removal are dremel a slot to use a flat head screw driver, break the nut (there are tools for this), easy out, or grind off the head of the bolt. That list is in no particular order... There are probably better ways that i'm forgetting as well. Hope that helps.
flag cmcrawfo
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 17:34 Quote
melias24 wrote:
melias24 wrote:
Hey guys, so my lower linkage on my 2014 Trance SX has massive play. But the issue is that the bolt is FT (the one that also holds the rear shock in place down the bottom). I have tried so hard to loosen it but just can't get it. I have pretty much wrecked the bolt. Any ideas?

No one has any ideas?

I guess the question is, do you even need to remove that bolt? is that where the play is? There is no way to get that bolt out without destroying it. But you should be able to remove the u-link chainstay pivot and just leave the lower shock islet. This will leave the lower u-link attached to the bike, but you could probably press out the chain stay bearings and replace them .... that is if the lower shock islet is otherwise fine (aside from being stripped)
flag iffy
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 17:35 Quote
drilling a bolt out is not easy and you run the risk of destroying the bore if things go badly.

consider taking it to a good mechanic if possible
flag cmcrawfo
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 17:37 Quote
iffy wrote:
drilling a bolt out is not easy and you run the risk of destroying the bore if things go badly.

consider taking it to a good mechanic if possible

^^^ this is the right answer.

...for anyone who has to ask. Salute
flag whattheheel
Posted: Feb 25, 2017 at 22:02 Quote
Just hit it with your f*cking purse Alice!!!
flag dragonaut
Posted: Feb 26, 2017 at 1:35 Quote
Well shit. Pulled the bike for a spring cleaning and noticed that the coating on the stanchions started to bubble... On a year old forks. I ve contacted CRC and well have to see what s up.
Well shit. Pulled the bike for a spring cleaning and noticed that the coating on the stanchions started to bubble... On a year old forks. I ve contacted CRC and well have to see what s up.

Has anyone encountered this problem.
The coating started bubbling on a year old Marzo forks.

I've pulled the bike out of storage for spring cleaning, and was greeted with this.

Safe to say, it's a shitty start of the spring. :/
flag el-booto
Posted: Feb 26, 2017 at 2:05 Quote
i've heard about it but not encountered it myself
did you buy new? IIRC marzocchi put a 3 year warranty on their fork lineup to original owner.
flag Charge262
Posted: Feb 26, 2017 at 2:11 Quote
dragonaut wrote:
Well shit. Pulled the bike for a spring cleaning and noticed that the coating on the stanchions started to bubble... On a year old forks. I ve contacted CRC and well have to see what s up.
Well shit. Pulled the bike for a spring cleaning and noticed that the coating on the stanchions started to bubble... On a year old forks. I ve contacted CRC and well have to see what s up.

Has anyone encountered this problem.
The coating started bubbling on a year old Marzo forks.

I've pulled the bike out of storage for spring cleaning, and was greeted with this.

Safe to say, it's a shitty start of the spring. :/

Pretty common on the nickel forks. It will start peeling and flaking next.

Warranty!

 


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