Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag Sre3-P0
Posted: Jun 22, 2017 at 2:57 Quote
Hi all,

I am trying to get back to riding after 3 years of lazing around.
I own a 2010 Cannondale F4 with a busted fork and a 2012 Polygon Collosus 1.0 AM which came with a MARZOCCHI 55 RS fork. The travel on the fork is 160mm.

I've been toying around with the idea of swapping the 55 RS onto the F4 and hit the local XC trails mostly and the Downhill trails when possible.

I want to know if anyone has tried something along these lines in the past? Would there any negative effects of this setup on the frame? I've talked to a few full susser guys around here, but all they do is throw around the word 'slack angle' and not really talk details on how it may affect the frame.

Thanks,
Sre3.
flag dingus
Posted: Jun 22, 2017 at 5:36 Quote
Hello. I've got a few Monarch Plus questions.

My shock has a mild squelch, I've bled it a few times and the 2nd time I did get a fair amount of bubbles out, but not all it would seem. Has anyone got some good tips for getting all the air out? (I had the compression set to 'open' and rebound t to 'fastest/open' too).

When I had the shock apart I noticed that there were a few marks running down the inside of the stanchion, in the direction that the piston travels. The marks where anodising had worn away were about 1.5mm wide and very obvious, but I couldn't feel them with my finger so there smooth, not gouged or scratched. I was wondering what may have caused this and if it would have any effect on the performance of the shock? As the marks are not on a surface that any air seals are in contact with so I imagine they would not be causing the squelch.

Danke.
flag dingus
Posted: Jun 22, 2017 at 6:00 Quote
Sre3-P0 wrote:
I've been toying around with the idea of swapping the 55 RS onto the F4 and hit the local XC trails mostly and the Downhill trails when possible.

I want to know if anyone has tried something along these lines in the past? Would there any negative effects of this setup on the frame?

What travel is the 55 RS you have?

It will raise the front of the bike giving you a higher handle bar height, bottom bracket height, slacker seat angle and slacker head angle. How big a change this will be depends on the length of the Marzocchi fork in comparison to the stock fork.

The slacker head angle will make the steering more stable/less twitchy, which is good for descending but not so good for technical climbing where you want precise steering. It will also put more stress on the frame around the headtube/downtube joint which isn't ideal, especially if you are doing jumps or drops which involve big impacts (although the F4 is obviously not designed for that kind of thing anyway).

As the front of the frame is higher and the seat angle is slackened your weight will be pushed farther back which means you might find the front wheel wants to lift off the ground on steeper climbs. You may find the seating position less efficient in general too.

The increase in bottom bracket height may make the bike feel less stable as your weight will be ontop of the wheelbase rather than 'in' it.

How much of a change it will make depends on the increase of the fork axle to crown lenght. I probably wouldn't go over 20mm personally, but there's no harm in trying it out and doing some light riding to see how it feels. I used to have a hardtail with a travel adjust fork with 95-140mm travel. I tended to ride it at 120mm most of the time, the difference between 95mm and 140mm was quite pronounced.
flag thesmokingman
Posted: Jun 22, 2017 at 9:10 Quote
zachc wrote:
What bottom cup headset size do I need for my Scott Voltage 2015 FR710? Cane creek says ZS49/30 but this doesn't fit. I'm at a bit of a loss in terms of what to order...

Get a caliper and measure it?
flag samael
Posted: Jun 22, 2017 at 9:38 Quote
zachc wrote:
What bottom cup headset size do I need for my Scott Voltage 2015 FR710? Cane creek says ZS49/30 but this doesn't fit. I'm at a bit of a loss in terms of what to order...

According to Bikesheet the spec for the headset is PF49.

http://bikesheet.com/bikes/2015ScottVoltageFR1710720730135x12SML.html
flag jaha222
Posted: Jun 22, 2017 at 10:07 Quote
So i think I've managed to source the problem on why my saint derailleur isn't applying tension.
Broken saint derailleur
  Broken saint derailleur

Broken saint derailleur
  Broken saint derailleur

But that little washer type thing looks pretty screwed and the part it attaches too looks sheared.
Broken saint derailleur

Not really sure how easily fixed this is or if i'll have to buy another derailleur. Should i give it a go trying to flatten out the washer or any other ideas?
flag NotDannyHart
Posted: Jun 22, 2017 at 12:41 Quote
Find a broken mech and just replace that bit.
flag thesmokingman
Posted: Jun 22, 2017 at 12:53 Quote
jaha222 wrote:
So i think I've managed to source the problem on why my saint derailleur isn't applying tension.
Broken saint derailleur
  Broken saint derailleur

Not really sure how easily fixed this is or if i'll have to buy another derailleur. Should i give it a go trying to flatten out the washer or any other ideas?

Did someone try to remove the derailleur axle? See on the right side, how it is not flush to the mech? The flange on the old one doesn't look good. You can get a replacement axle easily.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Saint-10-Spd-RD-M820-Rear-Derailleur-Bracket-Axle-Unit-M820-Y5Y298010-/301838162228?

or

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=33875&category=74
flag holt1997
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 7:06 Quote
So I rode a friends bike with SRAM Guides and I loved the extra braking power the 4 pistons gave me (currently running SLX on my bike).

Long story short I was wondering if an XTR Trail Lever/Saint Caliper combo would be a good alternative? I dont want SRAM brakes (mostly due to the lack of mineral oil and ispec compatability) and I've heard a few things about this being a good combination that offers decent modulation without being as full on as a full saint set up?

Which types of brake hose would I need as ive heard a few different things about fluid levels/dispacement but i dont understand it!

(fyi I ride a 130mm hardtail which I treat as if its a 150mm in terms of my riding)
flag dirtnapped
O+
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 9:14 Quote
You could try the XTR Race + Saint calipers, for the extra modulation and to get rid of the clunkiness the servo wave can produce.
flag Snozz
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 14:46 Quote
holt1997 wrote:
So I rode a friends bike with SRAM Guides and I loved the extra braking power the 4 pistons gave me (currently running SLX on my bike).

Long story short I was wondering if an XTR Trail Lever/Saint Caliper combo would be a good alternative? I dont want SRAM brakes (mostly due to the lack of mineral oil and ispec compatability) and I've heard a few things about this being a good combination that offers decent modulation without being as full on as a full saint set up?

Which types of brake hose would I need as ive heard a few different things about fluid levels/dispacement but i dont understand it!

(fyi I ride a 130mm hardtail which I treat as if its a 150mm in terms of my riding)
There's lots of discussion about this on the interWeb over a few years and I thought about doing it as I like my xtr levers. However the newer saint levers are much nicer so I just got all saint and they a fine.
flag blakes22
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 17:56 Quote
Ive got a trek remedy with a bontrager line hubs. every so often when on my first engagement of pedaling it makes a loud cracking sound. I have taken it to my local bike shop atleast 5 times and they don't know what its is, anyone know what it could be. it happens about 5 times each ride. and it has done this since i bought it brand new in december last year
flag cyberoptixs
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 19:19 Quote
anyone know what size allen key it is to remove the cap on the mission control damper for a lyrik... i have tried ever allen key i own and its not small enough

never mind its a 1.5mm ffs
flag cyberoptixs
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 19:39 Quote
soulless wrote:
anyone know what size allen key it is to remove the cap on the mission control damper for a lyrik... i have tried ever allen key i own and its not small enough

never mind its a 1.5mm ffs

so even though the sram website say that the set screws are 1.5mm i tryed a 1.5mm allen key and its doesnt fit and i dont think they make a smaller allen key any ideas
flag thesmokingman
Posted: Jun 23, 2017 at 20:05 Quote
soulless wrote:
soulless wrote:
anyone know what size allen key it is to remove the cap on the mission control damper for a lyrik... i have tried ever allen key i own and its not small enough

never mind its a 1.5mm ffs

so even though the sram website say that the set screws are 1.5mm i tryed a 1.5mm allen key and its doesnt fit and i dont think they make a smaller allen key any ideas

https://smile.amazon.com/Wiha-35392-Piece-L-Key-Metric/dp/B001ATKWJY/

 


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