I'm having a problem with my free hub. When I tighten my rear axle (thru-axle) the freehub locks up and won't spin. The free hub works perfectly without the through axle tightened down. From looking around online it seems you can preload the bearings in the free hub and that can cause this? Does my free hub need to be rebuilt? It's a new stans 3.3 HD xd driver I just swapped out for an old destroyed one.
Any help? I had a fully functioning bike before I removed my cassette two days ago and has not worked since reassembling. Bummed...I don't know what I did.
Small washer might sit between freehub bearings and hub Shell bearings. Old one may have stayed on old freehub.
Quick question, Am I right in thinking a MY15 26ā Pike uses the same uppers as the 27.5 model? And I could turn my 160mm 26ā Pike to a 150mm 27.5 by just swapping the lowers?
Somebody let me know if Iām missing something here.
Why not just get XT in the first place if you're gonna put a longer cage on it?
the difference is the Radr cage has an offset guide pulley to clear the 42t sprocket without having to screw the b-tension all the way in and loose shifting performance in the high range. It is also a little bit shorter than a med.
can a zee wide ratio rear mech be setup to run more then a 36 tooth cassette!
im looking at either a 11-36 or an 11-42 with a 30 tooth up front will the 6 extra teeth make that big of a difference?
Worth a rad cage you could go up to 42
would 42 teeth make that much more of a difference
Running a 30t with an 11-36 is comparable to having an 11-42 with a 34 or 36t chain ring. If you want to pedal up hill and have decent speed on the flat ground those 6 teeth are pretty helpful.
I have some fairly new Race Face Chester cranks, about two months old. I noticed some play when I wobbled the cranks laterally. The BB was greased thoroughly. I have a pet peeve about stuff being loose or wobbly, please help me out! I have four spacers on the non-drive side.
Hmm, I just received the same cranks. I'm curious what could cause this so I don't do it on my build lol
I have some fairly new Race Face Chester cranks, about two months old. I noticed some play when I wobbled the cranks laterally. The BB was greased thoroughly. I have a pet peeve about stuff being loose or wobbly, please help me out! I have four spacers on the non-drive side.
Hmm, I just received the same cranks. I'm curious what could cause this so I don't do it on my build lol
Are the cranks torqued correctly? needs 45 foot pounds. Other than that, place the non drive side arm in a vise,and check for play at the arm / spindle interface.
I have some fairly new Race Face Chester cranks, about two months old. I noticed some play when I wobbled the cranks laterally. The BB was greased thoroughly. I have a pet peeve about stuff being loose or wobbly, please help me out! I have four spacers on the non-drive side.
Hmm, I just received the same cranks. I'm curious what could cause this so I don't do it on my build lol
Review their instructions closely, race face provides numerous spacers to be put on bb shell and/or crank spindle to fine tune chainline, it's possible you've left something out. 4 spacers on non drive side seems like a lot.
Why not just get XT in the first place if you're gonna put a longer cage on it?
Build cost man a zee setup is only 200 bucks that's chainring, shifter , rear mech ,cassette and chain. Where the XT is 150 more before shipping and VAT
Hey everyone, so I'm about to dive into servicing my own rear shock (rockshox monarch rt3) for the first time, I have Phills water-proof grease, I notice a lot of people recommending Buzzys slick honey, does one work better than the other for this purpose?
Hey everyone, so I'm about to dive into servicing my own rear shock (rockshox monarch rt3) for the first time, I have Phills water-proof grease, I notice a lot of people recommending Buzzys slick honey, does one work better than the other for this purpose?
Slick honey is a suspension grease, not sure about the phils, it might be too sticky