Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Oct 19, 2017 at 20:43 Quote
Hank-Riffee wrote:
**HELP PLEASE**

I have a suspected issue with my King headset. The steerer tube has back-and-forth play in the headset, as if I haven't tightened the top cap enough. But I'm pretty sure that it's tight.

I can tighten the top cap until the play stops, but then everything is so tight that the handlebars don't turn freely.

I've already opened up the headset to clean and lube the bearings, but that didn't help. What can I do to fix this??Smile

Are you sure the bearing race is not upside down?

O+
Posted: Oct 19, 2017 at 20:52 Quote
goytay wrote:
Hank-Riffee wrote:
**HELP PLEASE**

I have a suspected issue with my King headset. The steerer tube has back-and-forth play in the headset, as if I haven't tightened the top cap enough. But I'm pretty sure that it's tight.

I can tighten the top cap until the play stops, but then everything is so tight that the handlebars don't turn freely.

I've already opened up the headset to clean and lube the bearings, but that didn't help. What can I do to fix this??Smile

Are you sure the bearing race is not upside down?

I don't think so... pretty much everything in the headset (like the bearing) is fixed to the cups and isn't removeable

Posted: Oct 19, 2017 at 21:36 Quote
are the bearings upside down?

Posted: Oct 19, 2017 at 21:51 Quote
Hank-Riffee wrote:
goytay wrote:
Hank-Riffee wrote:
**HELP PLEASE**

I have a suspected issue with my King headset. The steerer tube has back-and-forth play in the headset, as if I haven't tightened the top cap enough. But I'm pretty sure that it's tight.

I can tighten the top cap until the play stops, but then everything is so tight that the handlebars don't turn freely.

I've already opened up the headset to clean and lube the bearings, but that didn't help. What can I do to fix this??Smile

Are you sure the bearing race is not upside down?

I don't think so... pretty much everything in the headset (like the bearing) is fixed to the cups and isn't removeable

Have you checked Kings website for info https://chrisking.com/support

Posted: Oct 19, 2017 at 22:13 Quote
Repost this to see if anyone can help me out here. Thanks in advance.

sadevil wrote:
Quick question,
Am I right in thinking a MY15 26ā€ Pike uses the same uppers as the 27.5 model?
And I could turn my 160mm 26ā€ Pike to a 150mm 27.5 by just swapping the lowers?

Somebody let me know if Iā€™m missing something here.

Posted: Oct 19, 2017 at 23:13 Quote
BG01 wrote:
Hi there,
Question, can anyone tell if I can convert an internal BB on a 2017 norco storm to an external bb, would like to convert from 3x to single with some spares i have.

Thx

Internal as in cartridge bb, I'm pretty sure you can, although the shell may need facing and you'll need to check the thread of the bb. thinking about doing this on my partners bike, she has the same sort of setup

Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 0:58 Quote
Hank-Riffee wrote:
**HELP PLEASE**

I have a suspected issue with my King headset. The steerer tube has back-and-forth play in the headset, as if I haven't tightened the top cap enough. But I'm pretty sure that it's tight.

I can tighten the top cap until the play stops, but then everything is so tight that the handlebars don't turn freely.

I've already opened up the headset to clean and lube the bearings, but that didn't help. What can I do to fix this??Smile

King headests..

they were too stingy to pay the licence to use to use a split collar that was under patent to Cane Creak (untill it expired and then magically it appeared as a feature on their overhyped parts) it relied on an o-ring Blank Stare

so basically some of the earlier types have a design flaw where they tend to loosen and then develop play that you cannot really dial out.

might not be your problem though.

Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 4:25 Quote
Hi there,

Rockshox Lyrik 2016/17 model. Having a bike for a bit less of a year (about 150h or rides) and in the last couple of rides noticed a bit of harshness in the fork. Initially I thought that the headset is loose or something but it is fine.

The fork works fine when you compress it by hand, but when riding steeper and gnarlier trails you can definitely feel like there is some kind of a step or a threshold near full extension or similar. You can even hear that is not near silent, there is a bit of mechanical sound heard. Unfortunately it is difficult to describe this.

Do you guys think that the charger damper needs a bleed? Or it could be something else?

Thanks!

O+
Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 5:37 Quote
iffy wrote:
Hank-Riffee wrote:
**HELP PLEASE**

I have a suspected issue with my King headset. The steerer tube has back-and-forth play in the headset, as if I haven't tightened the top cap enough. But I'm pretty sure that it's tight.

I can tighten the top cap until the play stops, but then everything is so tight that the handlebars don't turn freely.

I've already opened up the headset to clean and lube the bearings, but that didn't help. What can I do to fix this??Smile

King headests..

they were too stingy to pay the licence to use to use a split collar that was under patent to Cane Creak (untill it expired and then magically it appeared as a feature on their overhyped parts) it relied on an o-ring Blank Stare

so basically some of the earlier types have a design flaw where they tend to loosen and then develop play that you cannot really dial out.

might not be your problem though.

I think you're right about that! I did notice that it doesn't have a split collar, which I thought was odd.

Is this play an issue that I need to fix... Or can I just leave it be?

O+
Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 5:40 Quote
Archimonde wrote:
Hi there,

Rockshox Lyrik 2016/17 model. Having a bike for a bit less of a year (about 150h or rides) and in the last couple of rides noticed a bit of harshness in the fork. Initially I thought that the headset is loose or something but it is fine.

The fork works fine when you compress it by hand, but when riding steeper and gnarlier trails you can definitely feel like there is some kind of a step or a threshold near full extension or similar. You can even hear that is not near silent, there is a bit of mechanical sound heard. Unfortunately it is difficult to describe this.

Do you guys think that the charger damper needs a bleed? Or it could be something else?

Thanks!

Try adjusting your rebound speeds. If after adjusting the settings and it's still rebounding harshly, you may just need to replace some damper seals, which you can get with a damper seal kit

Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 6:22 Quote
Hank-Riffee wrote:
Try adjusting your rebound speeds. If after adjusting the settings and it's still rebounding harshly, you may just need to replace some damper seals, which you can get with a damper seal kit

Thanks for the answer. I'm not really sure if that is the reason. The fork is setup relatively ok for me with shockwiz. I'll give it a try though. The seals are relatively new (less then 30h of riding in them). Now all of this got me thinking that I always use a wall mounted hook to leave the bike hanging from wall by the front wheel. So maybe that way it got a bit of air in damper?

O+
Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 6:42 Quote
Archimonde wrote:
Hank-Riffee wrote:
Try adjusting your rebound speeds. If after adjusting the settings and it's still rebounding harshly, you may just need to replace some damper seals, which you can get with a damper seal kit

Thanks for the answer. I'm not really sure if that is the reason. The fork is setup relatively ok for me with shockwiz. I'll give it a try though. The seals are relatively new (less then 30h of riding in them). Now all of this got me thinking that I always use a wall mounted hook to leave the bike hanging from wall by the front wheel. So maybe that way it got a bit of air in damper?

I doubt it. Your bike can handle some pretty extreme forces so hanging by its own weight shouldn't be an issue.

Try this: Stand to the side of your bike, and push down hard on the handlebars, using your open palms (don't wrap your fingers around the grips). Then immediately remove your hands from the bars so that the fork is free to rebound without any pressure holding it down. If your front tire jumps off the ground, you should consider more rebound damping.

Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 7:03 Quote
Hank-Riffee wrote:

I think you're right about that! I did notice that it doesn't have a split collar, which I thought was odd.

Is this play an issue that I need to fix... Or can I just leave it be?

ah, oh well It would piss me off the have play personally and it can sometimes cause damage to the steerer if you are unlucky and it gets loose on a ride and you dont notice.

fortunately the problem will go away with the headset if it is the issue, Hope, Nukeproof, FSA all make some good ones.

Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 9:11 Quote
Hank-Riffee wrote:

I doubt it. Your bike can handle some pretty extreme forces so hanging by its own weight shouldn't be an issue.

Try this: Stand to the side of your bike, and push down hard on the handlebars, using your open palms (don't wrap your fingers around the grips). Then immediately remove your hands from the bars so that the fork is free to rebound without any pressure holding it down. If your front tire jumps off the ground, you should consider more rebound damping.

I've tried it just in case. But it is perfectly fine. As said, the rebound and other settings are fine. I've noticed that when I put a lot of body pressure on fork and slowly release it, the fork will not extend for 10mm or so. If I apply a bit less pressure then it extends pretty much the whole length. I would say that perhaps the fork/bladder don't like to have negative force applied for long periods of time. Something like reverb dropper, it will get air in the system very fast that way.

O+
Posted: Oct 20, 2017 at 9:45 Quote
Archimonde wrote:
Hank-Riffee wrote:

I doubt it. Your bike can handle some pretty extreme forces so hanging by its own weight shouldn't be an issue.

Try this: Stand to the side of your bike, and push down hard on the handlebars, using your open palms (don't wrap your fingers around the grips). Then immediately remove your hands from the bars so that the fork is free to rebound without any pressure holding it down. If your front tire jumps off the ground, you should consider more rebound damping.

I've tried it just in case. But it is perfectly fine. As said, the rebound and other settings are fine. I've noticed that when I put a lot of body pressure on fork and slowly release it, the fork will not extend for 10mm or so. If I apply a bit less pressure then it extends pretty much the whole length. I would say that perhaps the fork/bladder don't like to have negative force applied for long periods of time. Something like reverb dropper, it will get air in the system very fast that way.

In that case just change your fork oil. Unless something is actually broken (and I doubt it) a simple fork service resets everything back to normal.


 


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