Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Aug 27, 2018 at 21:26 Quote
soulless wrote:
dhmtbr777 wrote:
How does 135x10 relate to 135QR? My bike takes a 135x10 axle,but it seems like most hubs with 135 spacing have a QR skewer. do these work interchangeably? I dont understand how it works. my bike is an Evil Sovereign.
135x10 uses a 10mm axle ...where 135qr uses a 5mm skewer and the caps on the hubs have a 10mm nipple that goes into the drop outs
Sometimes it refers to a bolt type axle but can also refer to a thru axle. its weird

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 4:01 Quote
I have rounded out the little screw atop the LSC adjuster on my '16 Pike RCT3 - tips on removal? Any idea if this is a screw I can easily replace with something generic? That's what I get for using old Allan keys! Frown

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 5:13 Quote
Spot the problem

I got a stick wedged in my wheel/rear mech at the weekend, causing the damage in the photo above.

The mech hanger seemed to do its job, with the bolts snapping. I didn't have a spare hanger out with me, but was able to replace it when I got home. However, after reattaching the mech, the upper jockey wheel is fouling on the larger gears on the cassette. Is there a way of testing if this is a problem with the mech, or how I am fitting it?

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 5:22 Quote
Hey,
I raced an Enduro Series last month and I had to put these frame-fork-wheels stickers. I tried to remove them but they're uber-sticky and they're made to crack instead of unstick.
Do you have a trick ?

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 5:25 Quote
Heat gun/hair dryer then use a credit card or guitar pick or something similar to get under it and peel off. Use goo-gone/lighter fluid to remove any residue.

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 7:33 Quote
lewiscraik wrote:

I got a stick wedged in my wheel/rear mech at the weekend, causing the damage in the photo above.

The mech hanger seemed to do its job, with the bolts snapping. I didn't have a spare hanger out with me, but was able to replace it when I got home. However, after reattaching the mech, the upper jockey wheel is fouling on the larger gears on the cassette. Is there a way of testing if this is a problem with the mech, or how I am fitting it?

Verify hanger alignment.

Wouldn't be surprised if the mech is bent.

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 8:06 Quote
cmcrawfo wrote:
lewiscraik wrote:

I got a stick wedged in my wheel/rear mech at the weekend, causing the damage in the photo above.

The mech hanger seemed to do its job, with the bolts snapping. I didn't have a spare hanger out with me, but was able to replace it when I got home. However, after reattaching the mech, the upper jockey wheel is fouling on the larger gears on the cassette. Is there a way of testing if this is a problem with the mech, or how I am fitting it?

Verify hanger alignment.

Wouldn't be surprised if the mech is bent.
I agree with the above, but will add that the chain itself could be twisted also.

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 8:16 Quote
How do I test those?

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 9:32 Quote
lewiscraik wrote:
How do I test those?

Use a der alignment gauge to check if see hanger is aligned. If not then align. Then after remounting der and going through der setup (1st limit screw adjustment, then cablr tension adjustment then b screw adjustment) if the system still wont shift well, or if the der looks like its not in line with cassette cogs, rhen the der itself is probably bent.

To check the chain for a bent do a link by link visual check as well as movement check of each. If a link looks fouled or dont move freely, replace it. If it's been a bit since your last chain replacement, consider a brand new chain.

Good luck

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 9:32 Quote
lewiscraik wrote:
How do I test those?

depending on your derailleur, i would just buy a new one. I had the same thing happen and couldn't get the thing to shift properly no matter what afterwards. you can have a shop test hanger alignment, it takes like 5 minutes tops.

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 11:49 Quote
What headset do I need to make my 1 1/8 inch straight headset into a tapered headset?
Thanks

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 12:06 Quote
bike2850 wrote:
What headset do I need to make my 1 1/8 inch straight headset into a tapered headset?
Thanks

What frame do you have?

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 13:15 Quote
False wrote:
bike2850 wrote:
What headset do I need to make my 1 1/8 inch straight headset into a tapered headset?
Thanks

What frame do you have?
2015 Santa Cruz V10

Posted: Aug 29, 2018 at 16:27 Quote
bike2850 wrote:
False wrote:
bike2850 wrote:
What headset do I need to make my 1 1/8 inch straight headset into a tapered headset?
Thanks

What frame do you have?
2015 Santa Cruz V10

Stock headset is:
1-1/8" Straight Steerer Zero Stack (1.5"headtube). S.H.I.S. ZS49/28.6 ZS49/30

I would check with Santa Cruz first to see if you can run an external cup lower. If so, you would need an EC49 / 40, like the one seen here:



 
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