Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag TheUnknownMTBR
Posted: Nov 16, 2018 at 9:24 Quote
Kind of crude for performing brain surgery, isn’t it?

whattheheel wrote:
photo
flag Jvb32
Posted: Nov 16, 2018 at 11:02 Quote
TheUnknownMTBR wrote:
Kind of crude for performing brain surgery, isn’t it?

whattheheel wrote:
photo


I've given up the battle and just ordered a new hub, if anyone wants a sweet i9 front hub, let me know...
flag bike2850
O+
Posted: Nov 17, 2018 at 20:32 Quote
I’m pairing Shimano XTR M90000 levers with Saint cailipers. What housing do I need? I want to get good ridge housing should it be the hose for XTR or Saint? I contacted them but didn’t get a response.

Thanks as always
flag nubbs
O+
Posted: Nov 17, 2018 at 22:33 Quote
bike2850 wrote:
I’m pairing Shimano XTR M90000 levers with Saint cailipers. What housing do I need? I want to get good ridge housing should it be the hose for XTR or Saint? I contacted them but didn’t get a response.

Thanks as always

The saint housing. You need the right claiper banjo fitting. Shimano hose would be just as good. I laugh at special after market brake hose for bicycle use.
flag dhmtbr777
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 3:03 Quote
Got another issue with the hoopty transition I bought. So it has 2007 gen 1 saint hollow tech 2 cranks. When I go to reinstall the non drive arm, I use the preload cap to tighten it to the BB. When tight, it won’t let the crank spin free. When loosened, it leaves the crank arm wobbly and loose. what am I doing wrong?

Splines seem ok. No significant damage. It wasn’t wobbly before and they spun free.

Oh shit maybe it’s because I don’t have the iscg bash guard on the so the spacing is messed up??? Idk man.
flag lifted-d
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 5:25 Quote
dhmtbr777 wrote:
Got another issue with the hoopty transition I bought. So it has 2007 gen 1 saint hollow tech 2 cranks. When I go to reinstall the non drive arm, I use the preload cap to tighten it to the BB. When tight, it won’t let the crank spin free. When loosened, it leaves the crank arm wobbly and loose. what am I doing wrong?

Splines seem ok. No significant damage. It wasn’t wobbly before and they spun free.

Oh shit maybe it’s because I don’t have the iscg bash guard on the so the spacing is messed up??? Idk man.

is frame 83mm and cranks 68/73? or too many spacers between cups and frame? iirc there should only be a 2-3mm amount of crank spline left 'uncovered' by the spindle. the large preloadcap, is only that, for snugging up the assembly, it technically could be removed once pinch bolts are tight.
flag naptime
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 6:01 Quote
yeah the pre load on shimano cranks is only suposed to be finger tight.
have you changed the BB in any way?? spacers etc
flag dhmtbr777
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 7:53 Quote
Nope. Same bottom bracket. I didn’t change anything there. It’s the same cranks that came on the bike, I’m just reinstalling them
flag naptime
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 9:19 Quote
Wobbly an loose, after the pinch bolts are tightened?
flag dhmtbr777
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 10:11 Quote
No, after the punch bolt is tight there is only side to side play because the NDS crank isn’t fully snugged to the BB
flag christopheryang
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 10:30 Quote
dhmtbr777 wrote:
No, after the punch bolt is tight there is only side to side play because the NDS crank isn’t fully snugged to the BB

something else is going on;

the preload cap is only supposed to be finger tight;

inspect the bottom bracket cups and make sure the spindle is greased properly;

it would help if you could show us a picture/video of whats going on
flag False
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 15:49 Quote
Yeah, thats normal.
flag dhmtbr777
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 15:56 Quote
Are you sure, lmao?
flag arphia
O+
Posted: Nov 18, 2018 at 17:31 Quote
dhmtbr777 wrote:

Here be a video

Is your drive side bearing cup all the way in the frame?

 
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