Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jan 20, 2019 at 20:34 Quote
dhmtbr777 wrote:
As far as I know its all there, yes. even brought it to a shop, and they didnt say anything about it. granted, its like the shittiest shop ever but... I only have it torqued a enough to stop the play, but like I said, there is no preload on the bearings at all. they still spin totally free no matter the torque.

It might be a stupid question, but is the stem loose?
Is there enough of a gap between topcap and steerer that some compression is possible?

Posted: Jan 20, 2019 at 21:01 Quote
Has the top cap topped out on the steerer?

Posted: Jan 20, 2019 at 21:46 Quote
nojzilla wrote:
Has the top cap topped out on the steerer?
^^^ This
Check if the top cup pressess on the steerer before sufficient preload is applyied on the bearings, add a headset spacer and also check for clearance betweel the top cup and steerer, it should be 4-6 mm when everything sits in place

Posted: Jan 20, 2019 at 21:47 Quote
with and without a spacer on top of the stem its the same. no preload.

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 0:27 Quote
soulless wrote:
seraph wrote:
soulless wrote:


im not talking about the cap sorry im talking about the plastic lid that covers the reserviour in my case the part that says Zee on the brake lever

Does your lever look like this?
Shimano Zee brakes

If so, you're not supposed to remove that reservoir cap. You bleed through the bleed port with a Shimano kit. There's no need to remove the cap anymore, Shimano uses a much more controlled bleed method these days.
yea that's what it looks like I'm not trying to bleed them I'm trying to sort out where a leak is coming from and I'm just wondering how tight that T10 screw should be that holds the 2 assemblies together not the bleed port screw the other one.

Tight. It should bottom out. If you're leaking around the seal between the two pieces you may need a new bladder. But Shimano levers are super cheap and all over the 'web. I would probably just get a new one entirely.

O+
Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 9:45 Quote
Anybody know if poc offers crash replacement discounts on a one year old dented helmet? Google is failing me on this one.

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 9:58 Quote
scjeremy wrote:
Anybody know if poc offers crash replacement discounts on a one year old dented helmet? Google is failing me on this one.

www.pocsports.com/us/customer-services/warranty.html

Drop them a line see what they say.

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 14:16 Quote
Any reason I get skip in my three smallest cassette cogs?
New chain/chainring/derailleur and the smallest 4 cogs on the cassete are new also. At first it was just the 11t, so I limited it from shifting into that gear, but now it's doing it in the 13t and 15t as well.

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 16:13 Quote
riish wrote:
Any reason I get skip in my three smallest cassette cogs?
New chain/chainring/derailleur and the smallest 4 cogs on the cassete are new also. At first it was just the 11t, so I limited it from shifting into that gear, but now it's doing it in the 13t and 15t as well.

Bent derailleur hanger? I checked mine the other day I was having similar issues and when I checked I was out 1/4 inch front to back and 1/2 inch top to bottom

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 16:13 Quote
seraph wrote:
soulless wrote:
seraph wrote:


Does your lever look like this?
Shimano Zee brakes

If so, you're not supposed to remove that reservoir cap. You bleed through the bleed port with a Shimano kit. There's no need to remove the cap anymore, Shimano uses a much more controlled bleed method these days.
yea that's what it looks like I'm not trying to bleed them I'm trying to sort out where a leak is coming from and I'm just wondering how tight that T10 screw should be that holds the 2 assemblies together not the bleed port screw the other one.

Tight. It should bottom out. If you're leaking around the seal between the two pieces you may need a new bladder. But Shimano levers are super cheap and all over the 'web. I would probably just get a new one entirely.
I'm going to replace the barn and olive first and go from there

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 16:14 Quote
[Quote="soulless"]
seraph wrote:
soulless wrote:
yea that's what it looks like I'm not trying to bleed them I'm trying to sort out where a leak is coming from and I'm just wondering how tight that T10 screw should be that holds the 2 assemblies together not the bleed port screw the other one.

Tight. It should bottom out. If you're leaking around the seal between the two pieces you may need a new bladder. But Shimano levers are super cheap and all over the 'web. I would probably just get a new one entirely.
I'm going to replace the barn and olive first and go from there clean it with iso and see if the leak comes back

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 17:39 Quote
I'm having a problem where my bike won't shift from first to second in the stand (skips second, goes straight to third), but works fine when pedaling it. I was wondering what I'm doing wrong with my derailleur tuning?

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 18:56 Quote
coaster156 wrote:
I'm having a problem where my bike won't shift from first to second in the stand (skips second, goes straight to third), but works fine when pedaling it. I was wondering what I'm doing wrong with my derailleur tuning?

How many chainrings do you have?
Does the limit screw stop the derailleur in 1st?
What happens when you shift into 3rd gear?
Is your b screw adjusted so there is minimal clearance on biggest gear?

Posted: Jan 21, 2019 at 19:02 Quote
soulless wrote:
riish wrote:
Any reason I get skip in my three smallest cassette cogs?
New chain/chainring/derailleur and the smallest 4 cogs on the cassete are new also. At first it was just the 11t, so I limited it from shifting into that gear, but now it's doing it in the 13t and 15t as well.

Bent derailleur hanger? I checked mine the other day I was having similar issues and when I checked I was out 1/4 inch front to back and 1/2 inch top to bottom

I'll check it, thanks!

Posted: Jan 22, 2019 at 9:15 Quote
potato wrote:
coaster156 wrote:
I'm having a problem where my bike won't shift from first to second in the stand (skips second, goes straight to third), but works fine when pedaling it. I was wondering what I'm doing wrong with my derailleur tuning?

How many chainrings do you have?
Does the limit screw stop the derailleur in 1st?
What happens when you shift into 3rd gear?
Is your b screw adjusted so there is minimal clearance on biggest gear?

I have 1 chainring, and the limit screw stops the derailleur in first.

When I shift from 2nd to 3rd, it goes down correctly while pedaling, however it skips over 2nd when in the stand.

I haven't adjusted the b screw yet, I'll adjust it tonight and see how that affects it.


 


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