Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Mar 22, 2019 at 23:16 Quote
dhmtbr777 wrote:
One you press in. The other you thread in. You want thread in.

thanks

Posted: Mar 23, 2019 at 1:46 Quote
Press in is a pain in my experience. Thread in just works. Grease up the threads and screw her in. Maybe throw a spacer if your cranks feel funny..

Posted: Mar 23, 2019 at 12:13 Quote
Pressfit has a lot of positives people never discuss. You're more likely to delaminate your BB insert on a BSA frame than you are to damage a press fit frame with a nylon cup, for example. It sucks that you need specific presses to install and specific tools to remove, but once you have them, PF BB is actually very very good.

If you really need to spin a BB, get a wheels threaded PF model.

All in all; don't listen to people hating on PFBB too much. Have had a lot more frames come to my desk with damaged threads or inserts than I have frames with PF tolerances that no longer hold a BB in.

Posted: Mar 23, 2019 at 12:19 Quote
but that might be because there are many more frames with threaded bb's and lots of ham fisted home mechanics

Posted: Mar 23, 2019 at 14:14 Quote
iffy wrote:
but that might be because there are many more frames with threaded bb's and lots of ham fisted home mechanics

I'd say there's more PF stuff out there, and has been for the last few years.

Regardless of what causes the issues, from misthreading cups, threading the wrong cup, using the wrong spacer stack, whatever, people are damaging them more often. Look at the BMX world. They've been on PF for decades without complaint about needing threads.

"Maybe throw a spacer if your cranks feel funny." No, go to a bike shop or ask around to make sure you're getting the right spacer stack. This is what causes issues.

Posted: Mar 23, 2019 at 14:44 Quote
RockShox reverb stuck in carbon frame,best way to remove it? Thanks

Posted: Mar 23, 2019 at 19:31 Quote
bikescene wrote:
RockShox reverb stuck in carbon frame,best way to remove it? Thanks
PB Blaster or penetrating fluid of your choice. Spray it around the clamp and let it soak in. Leave it to soak for couple of days while regularly reapplying liberally.

If it's properly stuck then prepare to scrap the post. Carbon on aluminum will undergo galvanic corrosion if the surfaces are not properly prepped.

Posted: Mar 23, 2019 at 19:32 Quote
sherbet wrote:
iffy wrote:
but that might be because there are many more frames with threaded bb's and lots of ham fisted home mechanics

I'd say there's more PF stuff out there, and has been for the last few years.

Regardless of what causes the issues, from misthreading cups, threading the wrong cup, using the wrong spacer stack, whatever, people are damaging them more often. Look at the BMX world. They've been on PF for decades without complaint about needing threads.

"Maybe throw a spacer if your cranks feel funny." No, go to a bike shop or ask around to make sure you're getting the right spacer stack. This is what causes issues.
^^^This Facepalm

Threaded BB's need to be installed correctly just like anything else.

Posted: Mar 24, 2019 at 5:05 Quote
Nobble wrote:
jonasdh wrote:
Bflutz625 wrote:


As long as it is the correct viscosity and is suspension oil it'll work. Be careful because petroleum based oils may work down on the seals and cause leaks.
i sent a email to denicol asking if the suspension oil is full synthetic pretroleum based and they said that the suspension oil is not a full synthetic, It is based with strong synthetic additives. should be fine? i rode like 1 year in the cartidrige but know i want the same oil to lubrificate so im a little concern if the oil dont destroy the seals
The fox 36 calls for gold 20w right?

I would get the Fox fluid, it's way more sticky than anything else I've ever seen. It's good stuff.

yes, fox 36 uses gold 20w, i only want to change to get less friction using a thin oil than fox 20wt

Posted: Mar 24, 2019 at 6:15 Quote
hey guys, wanted to know what was your opinion on a Scott gambler 2015 with a single crown 180mm, possibly RockShox lyrik or fox 36. currently has a 10-speed transmission, 27.5 wheels and the total weight would be approximately 15 kg.
I Prefer to go down rather than uphill but would like to go to some enduro tracks.
thanks
I have seen a similar here on pinkbike
Scott Gambler 2014 Test with single crown

Posted: Mar 24, 2019 at 8:09 Quote
jonasdh wrote:
Nobble wrote:
jonasdh wrote:

i sent a email to denicol asking if the suspension oil is full synthetic pretroleum based and they said that the suspension oil is not a full synthetic, It is based with strong synthetic additives. should be fine? i rode like 1 year in the cartidrige but know i want the same oil to lubrificate so im a little concern if the oil dont destroy the seals
The fox 36 calls for gold 20w right?

I would get the Fox fluid, it's way more sticky than anything else I've ever seen. It's good stuff.

yes, fox 36 uses gold 20w, i only want to change to get less friction using a thin oil than fox 20wt
their 20wt is sticky so it coats the bushings and seals well. It’s not gonna significantly change friction, but a different oil could speed bushing wear.

Posted: Mar 24, 2019 at 8:37 Quote
I'm having a issue with my Shimano Zee brakes. When I apply pressure to the front lever I get feed back like the lever wants to push out again and it pulses as the rotor spins I checked the rotor it's straight the brake works fine I'm not sure what it could be

Posted: Mar 24, 2019 at 8:45 Quote
No idea, but make sure the caliper isn’t loose & the hub is sitting correctly in the fork?

Posted: Mar 24, 2019 at 9:11 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
I'm having a issue with my Shimano Zee brakes. When I apply pressure to the front lever I get feed back like the lever wants to push out again and it pulses as the rotor spins I checked the rotor it's straight the brake works fine I'm not sure what it could be


Maybe air in the system? Maybe there's a uneven build up of pad material on the rotor ??

Posted: Mar 24, 2019 at 10:58 Quote
Hope E4 with centreline rotor

I'm having real problems with this. The rotor is 200mm and I have the correct K Hope mount (180 to 200 post mount)...but its stuck dead against the lower part of the caliper (without pads) when I tighten the caliper screws. It's mounted the correct way around too. WTAF am I doing wrong?! Help me please...before I go back to SRAMs


 
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