Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: May 16, 2019 at 11:03 Quote
Whipperman wrote:
rclugnut wrote:
Whipperman wrote:
Hi,
I'd like to perform a lower service on my Fox 36 Fit4 : change lubrification oil and grease wiper seals.
I saw that it requires a special tool to push the damper and air spring rods out of the lowers. Is there a trick in order to avoid buying this tool ?

Usually you flip over and thread the lower nut onto the rod, making sure to cover any adjusters, may need to thread the protective cap back on too (if included), then tap with a soft faced hammer. Once they're unseated, may take a solid whack, pull the nut all the way off. And you can drop your lowers from there.

I have heard the 'new' wipers, 2016+? To be used with the gold 20wt fluid, do need the tool to install.

Ok thanks. I don't think i'm going to change the wipers, just grease them with slick kick.
About the oil : Fox recommends 20WT oil, can i use any SAE 20W suspension oil (Castrol...) ?

I have heard mixed stories on using non suspension fluid... I remember fox saying you had to use new seals with the new oil, as the new 20wt oil would degrade the old seals. But I don't know for certain left or right.

Long story short, I would get the fox stuff. Most bike shops around me have it, new crush washers are always a good idea.

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 12:47 Quote
NDave wrote:
NDave wrote:
riish wrote:
Does it make that sound when you’re riding or just when you squeeze a pair of spokes?

Unfortunately it does during riding. Mostly noticeable uphills, or when pushing hard, or when braking. On the second video it can be sen that what it does when actually moving the bike a bit with pulled rear brake.

Any idea regarding this guys? Big Grin

Today I have taken my rear hub apart. Actually it was in a much better condition than I have expected.
I have cleaned it and greased again, but since it did not have that much dirt of course it did not help.
I have also took a quick look on the spoke nipples bit I did not see any crack on their outer parts.
Still no idea but tomorrow I will continue to play with the spoke tightness... :/

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 13:09 Quote
Bflutz625 wrote:
Primo123 wrote:
Bflutz625 wrote:


I have the Shimano ME2 and he cleat is pretty far forwards. It's marketed as an Enduro shoe but I'd call it a light trail shoe.

Far forwards toward the toe or the heel ? I am looking at the Shimano ME7 because it looks like the clear box is way back in the middle of the foot (what I want)


Toes. I'll send a pic when I get home tonight when paired with my M8020 pedals. I currently have the cleat slammed all the way back.

I have ME7's with CB DH pedals. Can confirm they go pretty far back. Great shoe with just enough flexibility.

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 13:37 Quote
I did the same exact thing and mounted the adapter backwards. Try flipping it

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 13:38 Quote
ME7's looks sick but gosh dang 150 bucks! I guess you get what you pay for!

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 13:59 Quote
Sorry I was mistaken. The ME7 are the newer version. I got the AM9's from Jenson for $65!

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 14:02 Quote
Primo123 wrote:
What SPD trail shoes do you recommend with a far cleat set back? I want to mimic a flat as much as possible. My giro chambers (first gen) doesnt go back enough. TIA

Here ya go buddy

https://www.pinkbike.com/u/Bflutz625/album/ME2-Shoes/

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 14:59 Quote
Are the following wheels good?
https://www.actionsports.de/en/dt-swiss-370-disc-is-dt-swiss-466d-wheelset-29er-26568?c=401
Is it possible to convert it to tubeless?
I have problems with my Mavic crossone rear wheel, seems that the hub could be dead and I'm looking for some new ones.

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 15:05 Quote
NDave wrote:
Are the following wheels good?
https://www.actionsports.de/en/dt-swiss-370-disc-is-dt-swiss-466d-wheelset-29er-26568?c=401
Is it possible to convert it to tubeless?
I have problems with my Mavic crossone rear wheel, seems that the hub could be dead and I'm looking for some new ones.

Tubeless: Yes

Recommended: Only if you're okay with a super narrow rim.

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 15:36 Quote
19mm inner width is narrower than I run on my road bike Eek

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 15:45 Quote
seraph wrote:
19mm inner width is narrower than I run on my road bike Eek

and yet 5 years ago 90% of us were on 19-21mm ID rims and somehow our bikes didn't explode and riding was still fun. If you're hard up for cash and this is the best deal that gets your rolling again, don't sweat the rim width. But also don't put anything wider than 2.35 on it.

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 16:51 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
Whipperman wrote:
rclugnut wrote:


Usually you flip over and thread the lower nut onto the rod, making sure to cover any adjusters, may need to thread the protective cap back on too (if included), then tap with a soft faced hammer. Once they're unseated, may take a solid whack, pull the nut all the way off. And you can drop your lowers from there.

I have heard the 'new' wipers, 2016+? To be used with the gold 20wt fluid, do need the tool to install.

Ok thanks. I don't think i'm going to change the wipers, just grease them with slick kick.
About the oil : Fox recommends 20WT oil, can i use any SAE 20W suspension oil (Castrol...) ?

I have heard mixed stories on using non suspension fluid... I remember fox saying you had to use new seals with the new oil, as the new 20wt oil would degrade the old seals. But I don't know for certain left or right.

Long story short, I would get the fox stuff. Most bike shops around me have it, new crush washers are always a good idea.
ALWAYS replace crush washers.

And buy the Fox Gold 20WT, it's super sticky/tacky. Good stuff.

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 17:52 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
seraph wrote:
19mm inner width is narrower than I run on my road bike Eek

and yet 5 years ago 90% of us were on 19-21mm ID rims and somehow our bikes didn't explode and riding was still fun. If you're hard up for cash and this is the best deal that gets your rolling again, don't sweat the rim width. But also don't put anything wider than 2.35 on it.

That's my point though. Most modern bikes are running pretty wide tires made specifically for wider rims. An i19 rim won't handle a 2.5 Maxxis WT tire.

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 17:54 Quote
seraph wrote:
freestyIAM wrote:
seraph wrote:
19mm inner width is narrower than I run on my road bike Eek

and yet 5 years ago 90% of us were on 19-21mm ID rims and somehow our bikes didn't explode and riding was still fun. If you're hard up for cash and this is the best deal that gets your rolling again, don't sweat the rim width. But also don't put anything wider than 2.35 on it.

That's my point though. Most modern bikes are running pretty wide tires made specifically for wider rims. An i19 rim won't handle a 2.5 Maxxis WT tire.
I think his point is, so don't put a 2.5 WT on it? Razz Wink

Posted: May 16, 2019 at 20:37 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
seraph wrote:
19mm inner width is narrower than I run on my road bike Eek

and yet 5 years ago 90% of us were on 19-21mm ID rims and somehow our bikes didn't explode and riding was still fun. If you're hard up for cash and this is the best deal that gets your rolling again, don't sweat the rim width. But also don't put anything wider than 2.35 on it.

2.35" is 60 mm, if the tire measures true to size. That's more than a 3:1 width ratio. I feel 2:1 is a reasonable upper limit, which would be 1.4" on a 19 mm rim. To look at it another way, my road rims are a bit dated and measure 14 mm. I'm running 28 mm (1.1") tires and many road folks feel my tires are too wide for the rims.

I used to run nominally 2.4" tires (measured about 2.3") on 22 mm rims. It collapsed every time I hit a berm hard, but I put up with it for a couple of years. Wouldn't recommend it now that we have better options.


 
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