Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 8:08 Quote
*So the 8mm can push against it

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 8:09 Quote
Anyone know what the dang heck this is? I found it on the floor whilst working on my mate's Canyon Strive, but can't seem to find where it might fit. (Can't say it's definitely from this bike)



Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 8:13 Quote
JCHILLTOPPERS wrote:
Any mechs out there have ... Good experiences or advice on how to extract a badly stripped 16mm cinch bolt from some race face next cranks?

Thanks
Did you round out the inside of the hole for the"key" on the fastener?
Take a sacrificial imperial socket that is just slightly larger than the stripped out part.
File it on a taper to the edge of the hex or key and hammer the thing into the hole that remains.


A trick to prevent this from happening in the future is file off the worn section of your allen keys to keep a good bite on the fastener. If there appears to be a bit of slop between tool and fastener try wetting and dipping your tool (not that tool) into a powder cleaner like Comet before putting it into the fastener to tighten up the fit and provide some bite.

YMMV.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 8:19 Quote
dingus wrote:
Anyone know what the dang heck this is? I found it on the floor whilst working on my mate's Canyon Strive, but can't seem to find where it might fit. (Can't say it's definitely from this bike)



those clips in the second photo look like they clip on to a cable guide?

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 8:32 Quote
adespotoskyli wrote:
You don't remove the 8mm hex, you tighten it untill it pushes the crank arm out, also this to happen you can't remove the 10mm hex

No, you still loosen the 8mm bolt. As you loosen it it presses against the inside of the 10mm bolt and forces the crank off the spindle.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 8:41 Quote
dingus wrote:
Anyone know what the dang heck this is? I found it on the floor whilst working on my mate's Canyon Strive, but can't seem to find where it might fit. (Can't say it's definitely from this bike)



That's a little rubber shield from a reverb 1x lever, I think

Actually I don't think if is, but defo handlebar area, SRAM shifter bung?.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 8:44 Quote
billbek wrote:
JCHILLTOPPERS wrote:
Any mechs out there have ... Good experiences or advice on how to extract a badly stripped 16mm cinch bolt from some race face next cranks?

Thanks
Did you round out the inside of the hole for the"key" on the fastener?
Take a sacrificial imperial socket that is just slightly larger than the stripped out part.
File it on a taper to the edge of the hex or key and hammer the thing into the hole that remains.


A trick to prevent this from happening in the future is file off the worn section of your allen keys to keep a good bite on the fastener. If there appears to be a bit of slop between tool and fastener try wetting and dipping your tool (not that tool) into a powder cleaner like Comet before putting it into the fastener to tighten up the fit and provide some bite.

YMMV.

Trying tonight. Thanks...yes, rounded...

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 8:47 Quote
Had a look at the shifter but couldn't see where that would have fitted in.

I've changed the cables on the rear derailleur and shapeshifter, not sure if it maybe came off the remote for the shapeshifter but again can't see where. I've checked the exploded diagram for the frame but nothing there.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 12:52 Quote
freerider11 wrote:
adespotoskyli wrote:
You don't remove the 8mm hex, you tighten it untill it pushes the crank arm out, also this to happen you can't remove the 10mm hex

No, you still loosen the 8mm bolt. As you loosen it it presses against the inside of the 10mm bolt and forces the crank off the spindle.

The RF crank may require a crank puller, mine did.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 12:53 Quote
If it's a cinch crank (Turbine, Atlas, Next, Sixc), you don't require a puller. It's self extracting. The Raceface 24mm stuff (Aeffect), I'm not sure.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 13:02 Quote
RF cranks with 30mm spindles have a self-extracting bolt design. RF cranks with a 24mm spindle usually have a regular bolt which require a hollow-BB crank puller.

As for the SRAM crank, if it's a BB30/PF30 design, just wail on the exposed spindle with a mallet and it will eventually come out. It's likely that your spindle is scored from use and possibly even indented from the bearings in your BB, so it will take some elbow grease to get it out. Also using something like Liquid Wrench, WD40, or PB Blaster may help.

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 13:45 Quote
Can you run sram x7 shifter 10 speed with Shimano zee derailleur?

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 15:05 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
jeepybum297 wrote:
Can someone tell me what year my fork is ?(before I order the seal kit) thank you

There is a serial number on the back of one of the crowns message rockshox over Facebook and give them the serial number they will tell you ...did this with my lyrik

I can't find a serial number on them.. crap. What should I do? It looks like it's a pre-2010 with 32mm stantions?

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 17:42 Quote
freerider11 wrote:
If it's a cinch crank (Turbine, Atlas, Next, Sixc), you don't require a puller. It's self extracting. The Raceface 24mm stuff (Aeffect), I'm not sure.

24mm Aeffect is self extracting, fyi


 
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