Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 18:17 Quote
jeepybum297 wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
jeepybum297 wrote:
Can someone tell me what year my fork is ?(before I order the seal kit) thank you

There is a serial number on the back of one of the crowns message rockshox over Facebook and give them the serial number they will tell you ...did this with my lyrik

I can't find a serial number on them.. crap. What should I do? It looks like it's a pre-2010 with 32mm stantions?

Measure the stanchions?

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 18:25 Quote
New Helm coil fork about 30 miles on it. Is this clunk normal ?
Views: 57    Faves: 0    Comments: 3

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 18:27 Quote
THE-GUNT wrote:
New Helm coil fork about 30 miles on it. Is this clunk normal ?
Views: 57    Faves: 0    Comments: 3

does it change with rebound wound in? sounds like too fast rebound/zero rebound??

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 20:12 Quote
lifted-d wrote:
THE-GUNT wrote:
New Helm coil fork about 30 miles on it. Is this clunk normal ?
Views: 57    Faves: 0    Comments: 3

does it change with rebound wound in? sounds like too fast rebound/zero rebound??
I just added rebound and it went away. lol

Posted: Jun 18, 2019 at 21:49 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
freerider11 wrote:
If it's a cinch crank (Turbine, Atlas, Next, Sixc), you don't require a puller. It's self extracting. The Raceface 24mm stuff (Aeffect), I'm not sure.

24mm Aeffect is self extracting, fyi

Not in my experience. I have a set at work and it has a regular 8mm bolt and requires a crank puller to remove.

Edit: looks like some are self extracting, some are not.

These are the OEM style, with a regular 8mm bolt:

...and these must be the aftermarket type, with the self-extracting unit:

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 1:13 Quote
e-bikes;

I am assembling my first ebike this week (Haibike / Bosch) anything special I need to pay attention to? pro tips?

Can I catch a computer virus from it? What kind of protection should I use?

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 3:13 Quote
As long as you get it's routine vaccination you should be fine. Wink

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 3:17 Quote
Honest answer though, no not at all. Viruses can't be 'caught'. They must be downloaded or transferred to the computer in question. Being that E-Bikes don't have an internet connection and would rarely be connected to your computer for updates it would be nearly impossible. Also viruses are made to do a specific job and as far as I know not one exists that is designed to mess with E-Bikes.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 8:21 Quote
seraph wrote:
freestyIAM wrote:
freerider11 wrote:
If it's a cinch crank (Turbine, Atlas, Next, Sixc), you don't require a puller. It's self extracting. The Raceface 24mm stuff (Aeffect), I'm not sure.

24mm Aeffect is self extracting, fyi

Not in my experience. I have a set at work and it has a regular 8mm bolt and requires a crank puller to remove.

Edit: looks like some are self extracting, some are not.

These are the OEM style, with a regular 8mm bolt:

...and these must be the aftermarket type, with the self-extracting unit:

Wierd, my bike came stock with an aeffect crank that is self extracting.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 9:29 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
seraph wrote:
freestyIAM wrote:


24mm Aeffect is self extracting, fyi

Not in my experience. I have a set at work and it has a regular 8mm bolt and requires a crank puller to remove.

Edit: looks like some are self extracting, some are not.

These are the OEM style, with a regular 8mm bolt:

...and these must be the aftermarket type, with the self-extracting unit:

Wierd, my bike came stock with an aeffect crank that is self extracting.

Well there's different levels of OEM I guess. All our Specialized bikes have the non-self-extracting model. It probably saves SBC $1000 per pallet to go with that model instead of the "nicer" one.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 9:49 Quote
freerider11 wrote:
adespotoskyli wrote:
You don't remove the 8mm hex, you tighten it untill it pushes the crank arm out, also this to happen you can't remove the 10mm hex

No, you still loosen the 8mm bolt. As you loosen it it presses against the inside of the 10mm bolt and forces the crank off the spindle.

Yes, you are correct, had the crank extractor in mind!

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 17:20 Quote
Hey guys, hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I'm having. I left my bike in my car all day yesterday whilst I was at work. It was a pretty hot day and maxed out at about 89 degree's, although I'm sure it was much hotter in the car. After work I drove to some local trails to ride and noticed my rear tire was completely flat... Turns out it had unseated itself from the bead half way on the one side. I thought that was really weird but must have just been some weird one off thing that happened. After furiously pumping with my floor pump I got the tire seated again and went for a good 1.5 hour ride. After my ride the tire was still completely inflated so I put it back in my car and left it there.

Skip to today and the exact same thing happened. Another hot day and unfortunately this time I was not unable to get the tire to seat properly and actually broke the handle off my pump from trying so hard.

Weird thing is my front tire has been completely fine.

Running both tires tubeless on Flow ex rims. Front tire is schwalbe magic Mary and rear is maxxis minion dhr2

Hoping someone has some sort of idea since I couldn't find anything. Thinking it just be something to do with the heat but why only part of the bead on the rear tire only?

Thanks!

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 19:01 Quote
Since the MTB quick question thread seems to be dead, I'll ask here.

If I upgrade my wheels one at a time, should I start with the front or rear? Going from DT Swiss E1900 to Bontrager Line 30 Pro if that helps (Al to Carbon).

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 19:08 Quote
bigboyroy007 wrote:
Hey guys, hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I'm having. I left my bike in my car all day yesterday whilst I was at work. It was a pretty hot day and maxed out at about 89 degree's, although I'm sure it was much hotter in the car. After work I drove to some local trails to ride and noticed my rear tire was completely flat... Turns out it had unseated itself from the bead half way on the one side. I thought that was really weird but must have just been some weird one off thing that happened. After furiously pumping with my floor pump I got the tire seated again and went for a good 1.5 hour ride. After my ride the tire was still completely inflated so I put it back in my car and left it there.

Skip to today and the exact same thing happened. Another hot day and unfortunately this time I was not unable to get the tire to seat properly and actually broke the handle off my pump from trying so hard.

Weird thing is my front tire has been completely fine.

Running both tires tubeless on Flow ex rims. Front tire is schwalbe magic Mary and rear is maxxis minion dhr2

Hoping someone has some sort of idea since I couldn't find anything. Thinking it just be something to do with the heat but why only part of the bead on the rear tire only?

Thanks!

Stan's rims. There's the smoking gun.

I've had two tires blow off Stan's rims at roughly 40 psi; the tires were fine on other rims at over 100 psi (accidental overpressure) and I've never had a tire blow off any rim other than Stan's.

1. Temperature can significantly increase the pressure in the tires.
2. Aramid (Kevlar) can lose about 25% of its tensile modulus (stiffness) between "normal" temperature and "my car is so hot I can't sit in it", meaning your tire's bead isn't holding as tightly as it should be.
3. Stan's rims have a tiny bead hook, so a tire's bead doesn't have to stretch much before it slips off the bead.

Depressurize the tires before storing them in a hot car and refresh your sealant a lot more frequently than usual due to the heat and the frequent air exchange.

Posted: Jun 19, 2019 at 19:30 Quote
coaster156 wrote:
Since the MTB quick question thread seems to be dead, I'll ask here.

If I upgrade my wheels one at a time, should I start with the front or rear? Going from DT Swiss E1900 to Bontrager Line 30 Pro if that helps (Al to Carbon).

Do the rear first ... Imo the rear takes the most punishment and would be better to upgrade first


 
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