Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 19:27 Quote
I'm experimenting with tokens on my Pike. I was currently running 1, and went to 3 to test. I pumped it up to the same pressure I was running with 1 token. Is that correct? I still have 25/30% sag.

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 19:32 Quote
Dc10 wrote:
Is there any way to get fluid into a reverb stealth b1 without removing the inner seal head?
I've pushed the inner shaft in with the poppet valve removed and the fluid squinted out.
Thanks
you've dicked 'er bud. Best to get it fully rebuilt, you could've messed with the ifp position. And hey, it's probably sagging already so can't hurt.

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 19:37 Quote
Primo123 wrote:
I'm experimenting with tokens on my Pike. I was currently running 1, and went to 3 to test. I pumped it up to the same pressure I was running with 1 token. Is that correct? I still have 25/30% sag.

sure, you could drop the pressure a wee bit but it all depends on what sort of result you're trying to get

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 20:52 Quote
Primo123 wrote:
I'm experimenting with tokens on my Pike. I was currently running 1, and went to 3 to test. I pumped it up to the same pressure I was running with 1 token. Is that correct? I still have 25/30% sag.

25% - 30% sag is on the high side for forks. It's (just) within the range recommended by SRAM, but I usually recommend people ride a little less than this and use fewer tokens.

How did the fork ride for you with one token? I'm guessing it would bottom out too easily or it rode too low in the travel? If so, that's because you have too little pressure.

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 21:04 Quote
What are the most common mistakes when bleeding brakes?

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 21:10 Quote
vindee wrote:
What are the most common mistakes when bleeding brakes?

Not taking your pads out is a big no no

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 21:38 Quote
vindee wrote:
What are the most common mistakes when bleeding brakes?
Rushing is a common one. A rushed bleed is usually a crappy bleed.

otherwise it depends what kind of brakes they are really.

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 22:02 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
vindee wrote:
What are the most common mistakes when bleeding brakes?

Not taking your pads out is a big no no

Even for a lever bleed?

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 22:11 Quote
bike2850 wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
vindee wrote:
What are the most common mistakes when bleeding brakes?

Not taking your pads out is a big no no

Even for a lever bleed?

ALWAYS. And wrap them in something. Oil seeks pads like bugs to a porch light.

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 22:43 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
bike2850 wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:


Not taking your pads out is a big no no

Even for a lever bleed?

ALWAYS. And wrap them in something. Oil seeks pads like bugs to a porch light.

I never take the pads out for a lever burp. Always hard to find the right bleed block. Plus leaving the pads in and the wheel on will give you a better idea of how the brake will feel once you've got everything closed back up.

Posted: Jun 25, 2019 at 23:28 Quote
seraph wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
bike2850 wrote:


Even for a lever bleed?

ALWAYS. And wrap them in something. Oil seeks pads like bugs to a porch light.

I never take the pads out for a lever burp. Always hard to find the right bleed block. Plus leaving the pads in and the wheel on will give you a better idea of how the brake will feel once you've got everything closed back up.

I've just had too many incidents of an errant drop of fluid hitting the pads like a proton torpedo going into the Death Star's exhaust port. I sometimes won't actually remove the pads, but I'll at least thoroughly wrap the caliper to prevent this.

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 2:16 Quote
I always leave my pads in, most bleed blocks are far too wide when compared to the gap needed to be filled when using worn brake pads, bleed to the pads and you get perfect lever bite point 1st time round I find.

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 3:18 Quote
Building my Enduro bike, installed the Shimano zee and chain , and looks like that the chain is to small cause it wont go to to the higher gears even though the alignment screws are set correctly, on the other hand when it is on the smallest gear the chain becomes to loose!
So chain to small or to big?

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 3:43 Quote
demo7jumper wrote:
Building my Enduro bike, installed the Shimano zee and chain , and looks like that the chain is to small cause it wont go to to the higher gears even though the alignment screws are set correctly, on the other hand when it is on the smallest gear the chain becomes to loose!
So chain to small or to big?

What kind of cage position is the derailleur in, in the largest gear you can get to?

Posted: Jun 26, 2019 at 3:55 Quote
Hey guys, trying to figure out which are going to give me best performance down the side of a mountain without overheating... I know high carbon pads are intended to operate in high heat without being affected, but i'm worried that this will still allow the disc surface to overheat. Will pads with cooling fins cool the entire brake assembly including the disc since it's drawing the heat away?


 
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