Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 17:09 Quote
spaceofades wrote:
Kytrix wrote:
I have purchase an used bike this year.

I need to bleed 2011 SRAM Code Brakes, do I need to get a bleed kit from SRAM or is there an universal bleed kit?
SRAM, or a universal Dot kit will work
from my experience, the SRAM pro bleed kit is worth every penny, the cheap bleed kits are usually crappy and hard to work with.

Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 17:52 Quote
I use an MRP AMg chainguide/ bash guard and I love it, both in terms of look and performance

Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 18:05 Quote
Nobble wrote:
spaceofades wrote:
Kytrix wrote:
I have purchase an used bike this year.

I need to bleed 2011 SRAM Code Brakes, do I need to get a bleed kit from SRAM or is there an universal bleed kit?
SRAM, or a universal Dot kit will work
from my experience, the SRAM pro bleed kit is worth every penny, the cheap bleed kits are usually crappy and hard to work with.

Same. I love the pro bleed kit SRAM offers, except that the bleed port fitting o-rings get bad pretty quick.

Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 18:07 Quote
seraph wrote:
Nobble wrote:
spaceofades wrote:
SRAM, or a universal Dot kit will work
from my experience, the SRAM pro bleed kit is worth every penny, the cheap bleed kits are usually crappy and hard to work with.

Same. I love the pro bleed kit SRAM offers, except that the bleed port fitting o-rings get bad pretty quick.

O rings are .15 cents at your local hydraulic shop

Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 19:57 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
seraph wrote:
Nobble wrote:
from my experience, the SRAM pro bleed kit is worth every penny, the cheap bleed kits are usually crappy and hard to work with.

Same. I love the pro bleed kit SRAM offers, except that the bleed port fitting o-rings get bad pretty quick.

O rings are .15 cents at your local hydraulic shop

I didn't say they were hard to find, I said it was annoying that they wore out quickly.

Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 20:46 Quote
When should I get my hubs serviced? My front one makes a clicking noise and my back hub seized a couple times?

Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 20:55 Quote
Mypeenhurts wrote:
When should I get my hubs serviced? My front one makes a clicking noise and my back hub seized a couple times?

Haha, now seems like a good time..

Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 21:28 Quote
Probably time to get your peen checked too.

Posted: Jul 16, 2019 at 23:54 Quote
If your back hub is seizing, it's probably a little past a simple service. Likely going to need a new axle and new bearings. If it's a cup/cone system, you may need some new bearing cups and/or cones if your old ones are pitted.

Posted: Jul 17, 2019 at 0:47 Quote
talkingspoon wrote:
not so much a mech question. But who else makes a taco bash guard besides oneup and blackspire?

I'm looking for one that is iscg 05 mounts

e*13 has a good selection of chain guides/guards

Posted: Jul 17, 2019 at 11:02 Quote
I've been having a time trying to firgure out how my rear tire could be so deformed. It's a 2.35 minion ss and it's got a case of the wobbles despite my rim being laterally true. It seems like there are two spots on the tire where the side nobs on one side are a bit lower then the other.

I've seated the tire 3 times thinking it was off. Inflated it to 70 psi to get it seated even. Also inflated it slowly and pushed over the bead to get it in line. Important to note that it's got a tube. Little line on the side of the tire is above the rim by equal amounts all along both sides of the wheel.

Question: Is it possible that the rubber itself is now deformed? As in one of the side walls is stretched?

Should I try installing a different tube?

Posted: Jul 17, 2019 at 11:40 Quote
Good chance the casing failed or is deformed, I had a new Aggressor (plus a few Continental's) wobble. All were handled under warranty.

Posted: Jul 17, 2019 at 22:33 Quote
gcmartini wrote:
I've been having a time trying to firgure out how my rear tire could be so deformed. It's a 2.35 minion ss and it's got a case of the wobbles despite my rim being laterally true. It seems like there are two spots on the tire where the side nobs on one side are a bit lower then the other.

I've seated the tire 3 times thinking it was off. Inflated it to 70 psi to get it seated even. Also inflated it slowly and pushed over the bead to get it in line. Important to note that it's got a tube. Little line on the side of the tire is above the rim by equal amounts all along both sides of the wheel.

Question: Is it possible that the rubber itself is now deformed? As in one of the side walls is stretched?

Should I try installing a different tube?

Assuming it's seated properly, which you seem to have addressed, possible causes could include:

1. Tread was applied crooked / casing was misaligned during manufacturing.
2. Bead is detached.
3. Plies didn't line up properly when the casing was constructed.
4. Casing had a small wrinkle when the tread was applied.

Most likely to be #1. Often eligible for a warranty replacement.

Posted: Jul 18, 2019 at 0:32 Quote
danlovesbikes wrote:
Mypeenhurts wrote:
When should I get my hubs serviced? My front one makes a clicking noise and my back hub seized a couple times?

Haha, now seems like a good time..

Agreed XD

Posted: Jul 18, 2019 at 9:54 Quote
Anyone use shimano oil in tektor brakes?


 
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