Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jul 21, 2019 at 16:14 Quote
I was hoping one of you guys could help, so I crashed and my reverb cable ripped out at the lever. So I brought to the bike shop and they said I needed a new barb and a bleed. So they replaced the barb and bleed the post. But after they did the work the lever wouldn't move at all. Any help would be appreciated!

Posted: Jul 21, 2019 at 16:42 Quote
masonsmith wrote:
I was hoping one of you guys could help, so I crashed and my reverb cable ripped out at the lever. So I brought to the bike shop and they said I needed a new barb and a bleed. So they replaced the barb and bleed the post. But after they did the work the lever wouldn't move at all. Any help would be appreciated!

Take it back to shop and tell them they F*!%#ed the repair and the need to make it right.

Posted: Jul 21, 2019 at 19:17 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
masonsmith wrote:
I was hoping one of you guys could help, so I crashed and my reverb cable ripped out at the lever. So I brought to the bike shop and they said I needed a new barb and a bleed. So they replaced the barb and bleed the post. But after they did the work the lever wouldn't move at all. Any help would be appreciated!

Take it back to shop and tell them they F*!%#ed the repair and the need to make it right.

What he said!

Posted: Jul 21, 2019 at 20:54 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
masonsmith wrote:
I was hoping one of you guys could help, so I crashed and my reverb cable ripped out at the lever. So I brought to the bike shop and they said I needed a new barb and a bleed. So they replaced the barb and bleed the post. But after they did the work the lever wouldn't move at all. Any help would be appreciated!

Take it back to shop and tell them they F*!%#ed the repair and the need to make it right.

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 6:19 Quote
el-booto wrote:
jimbomodder wrote:
el-booto wrote:


Sherman flick+ TPC
The round adjuster up top is compression, down bottom is rebound. The adjuster with the tag on it is a travel adjustment, turn it then push the fork down and a set of ears that reside in the pushrod open out and hold the fork down in the travel for climbing (RS revisited this with the dual position coil system a couple of years ago)
Good to know, wanting to fully do these over but I have noticed that adjusting top knob adjusts rebound some how and left leg adjuster does eh nothing, as for lower adjuster it turns about 145° then stops with no difference. Seems they need major love. One question... How can you be sure they TPC+ and not the crappy spv? Just curious

Black dial on the top of the right leg should be compression, possibly they've had the pistons turned over...
Definitely worth giving them a freshen up, there are a couple of sources around for old manitou parts so you should be able to get them running mint.
Left leg houses the spring, that turnkey does something but you have to push the fork down over half to get the lockdown to engage.
SPV forks have a different topcap with a volume adjust in the center and a Schrader valve to add air to pressurize the SPV piston. That's how you tell them apart from TPC
Right I've stripped them this morning and here's the outcome.
Manitou Sherman project
seems the travel adjuster is missing from within the spring.

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:01 Quote
Does anyone know if raceface stopped making the Chester crank I can't seem to find one anywhere except jensonUSA every where else says sold out or not available?

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:06 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
Does anyone know if raceface stopped making the Chester crank I can't seem to find one anywhere except jensonUSA every where else says sold out or not available?

Looks like they're not available from RF anymore. Every crank they're producing is a direct mount chainring style now.

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:11 Quote
Do you think they will still making bolt on chain rings or is it worth it to go clinch or whatever they call it

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:14 Quote
I'd go with the cinch..so much easier to replace or switch sprockets vs bolt on.

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:17 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
Do you think they will still making bolt on chain rings or is it worth it to go clinch or whatever they call it

They still make 104 BCD rings for sure, but the CINCH system is superior.

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:28 Quote
How it is more superior? Just the fact it doesn't use bolts? Reason I'm asking is I currently have a diabolus crank and I wanna switch it out just becuase of the massive cross chaining I'm getting it mangled my drivetrain it's step one to fixing the issue bit I don't wanna dish out $300 for a turbine or atlas... Is the aeffect crank any good?

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:36 Quote
The Aeffect crank is nice. Direct mount is nice because for a few reasons. One is that it's more secure, since it uses one big lock ring instead of 4 small bolts that can rattle loose over time. Another is that a direct mount ring is stiffer and stronger than a 4-bolt style. Also it looks clean AF. I run the Turbines on my Blur 4X.

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:53 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
How it is more superior? Just the fact it doesn't use bolts? Reason I'm asking is I currently have a diabolus crank and I wanna switch it out just becuase of the massive cross chaining I'm getting it mangled my drivetrain it's step one to fixing the issue bit I don't wanna dish out $300 for a turbine or atlas... Is the aeffect crank any good?

Lowest priced cranks w cinch and a self extracting crank bolt. Its 200g less than the chester and costs the same, ~$100, and gets you on a new dominant tech standard.

I have them and can vouche my single data point that I have had 0 issues with them.

Easy choice
https://www.jensonusa.com/Race-Face-Aeffect-Cinch-Cranks-170mm

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 17:55 Quote
My Affect cranks work fine. Bought them sans the bb for 60.00 shipped in like new cond.Wink

Posted: Jul 22, 2019 at 18:00 Quote
Can they handle a bit of park abuse?


 
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