Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Sep 22, 2019 at 22:32 Quote
Owensven wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
Owensven wrote:
Does it matter what hydraulic hose I use for a reverb stealth?
Should I go with the rockshox brand hosing (planning to switch to the original barb fitting and losing the connectamajig), some expensive jagwire one, or the cheapest one I can find.
Mainly just looking to not spend 40$ on some hydraulic hose.

Thanks
Why do you want to get rid of the connect a ma jig?
I want to get rid of it so that I can fit my dropper just a little bit farther down.

Also the previous owner of my bike really did a number on the post end of the hose and kinked it badly enough where the remote is hard to press and comes up slowly, so i figured its time for a hose replacement anyways.
Fair point I guess. The connectamajig is very convenient, however if your getting rid of it you could just trim it off and replace the barb assuming there's enough hose to do so.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 10:54 Quote
Race Face Turbine Top nut removal struggles.
After viewing the RaceFace video on relubing the dropper post I was unable to loosen the top nut that allows access to the foam gaskets inside the collar of the post.

Please help if you can.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 11:06 Quote
I ride a lot but my understanding of specs/ components and bike maintenance is limited. I have a 2016 Salsa Ponyrustler with 27.5" plus wheels/tires (my tires are 3") and Fox 34 fork in front and the basic, tiny fox float shock in the rear. I would prefer to just swap for components with a bit more travel than to get a whole new bike. Would I be able to swap a 36 fork and a better rear shock like the DPS? Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 11:09 Quote
Jeffb113 wrote:
Race Face Turbine Top nut removal struggles.
After viewing the RaceFace video on relubing the dropper post I was unable to loosen the top nut that allows access to the foam gaskets inside the collar of the post.

Please help if you can.

- Make sure you have an original Turbine post and not a Turbine R (Turbine R isn't mean to be disassembled)
- Take saddle off and remove all air from post
- Re-install the saddle so you can use it for leverage
- Clamp the post collar nut really tight into a rubber repair stand clamp, make sure it's clamping only the nut part of the collar
- Use the saddle for leverage and turn it to unscrew the nut, use a quick jerking movement to break it free, refer to the Raceface video for the direction you are to turn the post, make sure you're not turning it the wrong way

Have used this method on multiple Turbines, some are harder than others but this method always works.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 11:28 Quote
gcsk8s wrote:
I ride a lot but my understanding of specs/ components and bike maintenance is limited. I have a 2016 Salsa Ponyrustler with 27.5" plus wheels/tires (my tires are 3") and Fox 34 fork in front and the basic, tiny fox float shock in the rear. I would prefer to just swap for components with a bit more travel than to get a whole new bike. Would I be able to swap a 36 fork and a better rear shock like the DPS? Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question.

not much you can do about the rear. You are stuck with the 120mm of travel it has or thereabouts (you could get creative with a longer stroke shock and offset shock bushing buts it wouldn't turn 120mm trail bike into a 160mm enduro sled). You could add a longer fork but if you go too long you'll slacked out the front too much and raise your bb too much. I'd only recommend bumping the fork up 20-30mm and no more before the effect it has on geometry starts being an issue. Its possible your existing fox 34 could be adjusted from its stock 130mm configuration to something like 150mm with a new air spring shaft.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 12:03 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
gcsk8s wrote:
I ride a lot but my understanding of specs/ components and bike maintenance is limited. I have a 2016 Salsa Ponyrustler with 27.5" plus wheels/tires (my tires are 3") and Fox 34 fork in front and the basic, tiny fox float shock in the rear. I would prefer to just swap for components with a bit more travel than to get a whole new bike. Would I be able to swap a 36 fork and a better rear shock like the DPS? Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question.

not much you can do about the rear. You are stuck with the 120mm of travel it has or thereabouts (you could get creative with a longer stroke shock and offset shock bushing buts it wouldn't turn 120mm trail bike into a 160mm enduro sled). You could add a longer fork but if you go too long you'll slacked out the front too much and raise your bb too much. I'd only recommend bumping the fork up 20-30mm and no more before the effect it has on geometry starts being an issue. Its possible your existing fox 34 could be adjusted from its stock 130mm configuration to something like 150mm with a new air spring shaft.

To put it another way: you can't turn your bike into something significantly different from what it is, and any attempt to do so is likely to result in losing the good traits of the bike without properly achieving what you seek - i.e. you'll just make it worse.

Geometry, not suspension travel, is what really determines the handling and "capability" of a bike. The Pony Ruster's shock size is not one that easily lends itself to spec'ing an alternate shock. You may be able to use a 7.5"× 2" with offset bushings, which would increase your rear travel by about 12 mm. Add a fork with a comparable bump in travel and - most importantly - an off-axis headset (Angleset or fixed cup style) and you'll have something more capable ... but you'll also have spent about a grand, even if you buy used or clearance-priced components.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 16:08 Quote
I have a Trek Fuel EX 7. Recently I had maintenance done on the bottom bracket. Since then, there is no longer enough clearance between the crank arm and the chainstay for my cadence sensor to pass through without touching the chainstay. There wasn't a ton of space before, but now it's just slightly less than not enough. Is there some aspect of adjustability when replacing the bottom bracket guts that would allow the shop to give me back my missing millimeter?

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 18:08 Quote
DennisETaylor wrote:
I have a Trek Fuel EX 7. Recently I had maintenance done on the bottom bracket. Since then, there is no longer enough clearance between the crank arm and the chainstay for my cadence sensor to pass through without touching the chainstay. There wasn't a ton of space before, but now it's just slightly less than not enough. Is there some aspect of adjustability when replacing the bottom bracket guts that would allow the shop to give me back my missing millimeter?

Here's a guide, if your Fuel EX is the current generation and uses a SRAM DUB BB. Regardless of the generation, there are probably some spacers you could swap from one side to the other. It would be interesting to find out whether it was correct before and incorrect now, or vice versa. Or maybe your magnet just got moved?

Alternative idea: glue a small, strong magnet to your crank and have clearance to spare.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 18:12 Quote
DennisETaylor wrote:
I have a Trek Fuel EX 7. Recently I had maintenance done on the bottom bracket. Since then, there is no longer enough clearance between the crank arm and the chainstay for my cadence sensor to pass through without touching the chainstay. There wasn't a ton of space before, but now it's just slightly less than not enough. Is there some aspect of adjustability when replacing the bottom bracket guts that would allow the shop to give me back my missing millimeter?
see what rmr mentioned. I've seen trek bones come with terrible crank installs before

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 18:52 Quote
For now, I've moved the sensor to the right crank which seems to have enough room, but the Garmin manual specifically mentions placing it on the non-drivetrain side, so I expect the chain will probably cause false readings. I guess I'll have to phone the Trek shop tomorrow and ask them if they have different spacer options. Maybe the tech just grabbed the default spacer without checking.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 19:03 Quote
DennisETaylor wrote:
For now, I've moved the sensor to the right crank which seems to have enough room, but the Garmin manual specifically mentions placing it on the non-drivetrain side, so I expect the chain will probably cause false readings. I guess I'll have to phone the Trek shop tomorrow and ask them if they have different spacer options. Maybe the tech just grabbed the default spacer without checking.

It's possible the spacers have simply been put in a different orientation. For example, maybe the proper position is to have two on the right side and the original build had one on each side. These things can happen.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 19:23 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
DennisETaylor wrote:
For now, I've moved the sensor to the right crank which seems to have enough room, but the Garmin manual specifically mentions placing it on the non-drivetrain side, so I expect the chain will probably cause false readings. I guess I'll have to phone the Trek shop tomorrow and ask them if they have different spacer options. Maybe the tech just grabbed the default spacer without checking.

It's possible the spacers have simply been put in a different orientation. For example, maybe the proper position is to have two on the right side and the original build had one on each side. These things can happen.
It was also really common for these to come with the bb not pushed in all the way.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 19:39 Quote
Will this crank fit in a 68/73 BB width
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2643533/

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 19:40 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
DennisETaylor wrote:
For now, I've moved the sensor to the right crank which seems to have enough room, but the Garmin manual specifically mentions placing it on the non-drivetrain side, so I expect the chain will probably cause false readings. I guess I'll have to phone the Trek shop tomorrow and ask them if they have different spacer options. Maybe the tech just grabbed the default spacer without checking.

It's possible the spacers have simply been put in a different orientation. For example, maybe the proper position is to have two on the right side and the original build had one on each side. These things can happen.
It was also really common for these to come with the bb not pushed in all the way.

Or that. So there you go: maybe there's a simple solution or maybe no solution is required. A thin magnet and a drop of glue is looking pretty promising.

Posted: Sep 23, 2019 at 21:26 Quote
R-M-R wrote:

Or that. So there you go: maybe there's a simple solution or maybe no solution is required. A thin magnet and a drop of glue is looking pretty promising.

TBH, I don't see how the magnet thing can work. You may be thinking of a different type of sensor.


 
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