Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 11:31 Quote
KevinStafford wrote:
Tubeless setup without the audible 'pop' to confirm seated bead...

Just converted a set of RF Aeffect (trail) wheels to tubeless... internal width 24mm... running Minions 2.5 front and 2.4 back.
Prior to this, while swapping tires out (with tubes) the front Minion... new off the rack, had seated with a pop as I inflated the tube within. I had moved the old front to the back with no pop, and no surprise because I was still running tubes.
Here's the crux...
I did the dry run with soap and water... stans rim tape in place, and had inflated the tires to 50 psi... NO POP.
But it held (temporarily). I had deflated the tires... pulled the valve core out... injected the required amount of stans into the tire and had then re-inflated them back to 50 psi.
Again no pop.
However, no leaks either...
They're holding.
QUESTION.
Have they seated?
Or will they blow what ever seal they have the moment I hit the dirt on that first drop?

Spin the wheels and ensure that the tires are true to the rim, if you see any large dives or bulges it likely is not seated, if not such irregularity exists then you're good to go. Sometimes they don't make much noise sliding into place.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 11:50 Quote
KevinStafford wrote:
Tubeless setup without the audible 'pop' to confirm seated bead...

[ ... ]

Have they seated? Or will they blow what ever seal they have the moment I hit the dirt on that first drop?

You should be able to confirm whether they've seated with a visual inspection. As ajax-ripper noted, look closely and the bead-rim interface should look uniform all around.

This may indicate a loose fit and yes, there's a chance it could burp. Probably not, though, as I've had the same stealthy seating on several occasions without problem. Just don't ever significantly over-inflate the tire (ex. to force sealant into a plug when you get a flat), especially if the rim is Stan's or other with a short bead hook.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 12:53 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
KevinStafford wrote:
Tubeless setup without the audible 'pop' to confirm seated bead...

Just converted a set of RF Aeffect (trail) wheels to tubeless... internal width 24mm... running Minions 2.5 front and 2.4 back.
Prior to this, while swapping tires out (with tubes) the front Minion... new off the rack, had seated with a pop as I inflated the tube within. I had moved the old front to the back with no pop, and no surprise because I was still running tubes.
Here's the crux...
I did the dry run with soap and water... stans rim tape in place, and had inflated the tires to 50 psi... NO POP.
But it held (temporarily). I had deflated the tires... pulled the valve core out... injected the required amount of stans into the tire and had then re-inflated them back to 50 psi.
Again no pop.
However, no leaks either...
They're holding.
QUESTION.
Have they seated?
Or will they blow what ever seal they have the moment I hit the dirt on that first drop?

Spin the wheels and ensure that the tires are true to the rim, if you see any large dives or bulges it likely is not seated, if not such irregularity exists then you're good to go. Sometimes they don't make much noise sliding into place.

Yeah, they're perfect all the way around. I'm just going to have to ride them, because I'm not going to pull them back off the wheels when looking as true as they are presently. Thanks man.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 12:55 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
KevinStafford wrote:
Tubeless setup without the audible 'pop' to confirm seated bead...

[ ... ]

Have they seated? Or will they blow what ever seal they have the moment I hit the dirt on that first drop?

You should be able to confirm whether they've seated with a visual inspection. As ajax-ripper noted, look closely and the bead-rim interface should look uniform all around.

This may indicate a loose fit and yes, there's a chance it could burp. Probably not, though, as I've had the same stealthy seating on several occasions without problem. Just don't ever significantly over-inflate the tire (ex. to force sealant into a plug when you get a flat), especially if the rim is Stan's or other with a short bead hook.

Good to know that a seal can be had without that satisfying 'pop'
Thanks man. Stealthy seating...

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 17:30 Quote
I upgraded my 1st gen SC Nomad this summer to 1x9 with a 42t cassette. My derailleur clears the cassette enough to ride it but not enough to satisfy my OCD. I'm looking at a road link but they're spec'd for 10 and 11 speed. Wolftooth says it'll work with a 9 speed Shimano road derailleur, and mine is a SRAM X9. Can someone please help me understand why it wouldn't work with my mtb derailleur, or if it would? Thanks in advance!

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 17:40 Quote
The Roadlink is what you're after as all it does it move the mounting hole down. The Goatlinks are for Shimano Direct mount derailleurs only as the Goatlinks replace the B-link that comes on Shimano shadow derailleurs from factory. Should get you exactly what you're after.

Posted: Oct 15, 2019 at 22:41 Quote
You can get copies of the road link on ebay for a fraction of the cost!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163656525852

Hope this helps
Kes

Posted: Oct 16, 2019 at 19:17 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
WaterBear wrote:
I have only general advice for you. To get all the energy from your hammer blows in to the axle, do everything you can to fix the frame in place so that it doesn't bounce when you hit it. If you can clamp it, great. The nuclear option is to use a hydraulic press if you have access to one. Support the frame so that it's as level as you can get it and gradually apply pressure to the axle. If the axle has rusted together with the inner bearing races, then you are in trouble. If that's the case you may need to get destructive with the axle.

Right concept. If possible, find a socket or pipe/tube with about the same ID as the inner bearing race, just slightly larger. Slip it over the axle and against the race. Rest it on a cement floor or other immovable object. Now, when you hit the axle, nearly all the force is going toward breaking loose the axle.

Be careful to not keep hitting once the axle bottoms out on the socket, ground, etc., because then you're just compressing the axle and not moving it.

There should be a way to like someone's post. Those long-neck sockets are super useful at this task.

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 11:12 Quote
WaterBear wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
WaterBear wrote:
I have only general advice for you. To get all the energy from your hammer blows in to the axle, do everything you can to fix the frame in place so that it doesn't bounce when you hit it. If you can clamp it, great. The nuclear option is to use a hydraulic press if you have access to one. Support the frame so that it's as level as you can get it and gradually apply pressure to the axle. If the axle has rusted together with the inner bearing races, then you are in trouble. If that's the case you may need to get destructive with the axle.

Right concept. If possible, find a socket or pipe/tube with about the same ID as the inner bearing race, just slightly larger. Slip it over the axle and against the race. Rest it on a cement floor or other immovable object. Now, when you hit the axle, nearly all the force is going toward breaking loose the axle.

Be careful to not keep hitting once the axle bottoms out on the socket, ground, etc., because then you're just compressing the axle and not moving it.

There should be a way to like someone's post. Those long-neck sockets are super useful at this task.

apparently you just copy someone's post and don't say anything and everyone understands its an up vote.

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 11:49 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
WaterBear wrote:
R-M-R wrote:


Right concept. If possible, find a socket or pipe/tube with about the same ID as the inner bearing race, just slightly larger. Slip it over the axle and against the race. Rest it on a cement floor or other immovable object. Now, when you hit the axle, nearly all the force is going toward breaking loose the axle.

Be careful to not keep hitting once the axle bottoms out on the socket, ground, etc., because then you're just compressing the axle and not moving it.

There should be a way to like someone's post. Those long-neck sockets are super useful at this task.

apparently you just copy someone's post and don't say anything and everyone understands its an up vote.

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 17:06 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
freestyIAM wrote:
WaterBear wrote:


There should be a way to like someone's post. Those long-neck sockets are super useful at this task.

apparently you just copy someone's post and don't say anything and everyone understands its an up vote.

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 17:33 Quote
JohnyBoy wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
freestyIAM wrote:


apparently you just copy someone's post and don't say anything and everyone understands its an up vote.

+1

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 18:22 Quote
Friendly reminder that nobody really cares if you agree, we're here for advice, not a circlejerk.

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 18:22 Quote
looking to lower a pike ultimate. Right now its a 27.5" 160mm. Its going on my DJ bike and I'd like it to be 100mm. Do I get the 110mm air shaft or 120mm shaft for the 26"?

Looking at the spare parts list, looks like going from 26 to 27.5, the fork looses 10mm of travel.

I think I know which one to get but just want someone else's 2 cents

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 18:23 Quote
sherbet wrote:
Friendly reminder that nobody really cares if you agree, we're here for advice, not a circlejerk.


 
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