Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 18:24 Quote
Bflutz625 wrote:
sherbet wrote:
Friendly reminder that nobody really cares if you agree, we're here for advice, not a circlejerk.

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 18:40 Quote
I don't want to spend $40 bucks on a RS 35mm seal driver, anyone got any leads on a cheap version. I usually do it the ghetto way but wouldn't mind a proper tool

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 18:49 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
I don't want to spend $40 bucks on a RS 35mm seal driver, anyone got any leads on a cheap version. I usually do it the ghetto way but wouldn't mind a proper tool
unior ones are half the price. Never used them, so can't comment on quality, but I imagine they work ok

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 18:58 Quote
spaceofades wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
I don't want to spend $40 bucks on a RS 35mm seal driver, anyone got any leads on a cheap version. I usually do it the ghetto way but wouldn't mind a proper tool
unior ones are half the price. Never used them, so can't comment on quality, but I imagine they work ok

Thanks for the tip I will look into it

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 19:11 Quote
I rebuilt a 2005 Marz EXR Pro Coil 120 a few months back. Seems to be some wiggle between the uppers & lowers. Feels similar to a loose headset if you rock bike back & forth with front brake locked. Headset adjustment is good so I think its gotta be play in the fork. Could this be a bushing issue? I didn't replace those. Thoughts/advice greatly appreciated.

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 19:31 Quote
spaceofades wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
I don't want to spend $40 bucks on a RS 35mm seal driver, anyone got any leads on a cheap version. I usually do it the ghetto way but wouldn't mind a proper tool
unior ones are half the price. Never used them, so can't comment on quality, but I imagine they work ok

I have a PVC pipe that's 1 1/2 inches diameter. Works just fine

Posted: Oct 17, 2019 at 23:55 Quote
talkingspoon wrote:
looking to lower a pike ultimate. Right now its a 27.5" 160mm. Its going on my DJ bike and I'd like it to be 100mm. Do I get the 110mm air shaft PR 120mm shaft for the 26"?

Looking at the spare parts list, looks like going from 26 to 27.5, the fork looses 10mm of travel.

I think I know which one to get but just want someone else's 2 cents

Yep that's right, go up in wheel size needs a longer air shaft for the same travel.

Posted: Oct 18, 2019 at 7:10 Quote
sherbet wrote:
Friendly reminder that nobody really cares if you agree, we're here for advice, not a circlejerk.

Exactly and as Ajax gives out solid advice wdgaf

Posted: Oct 18, 2019 at 9:06 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
spaceofades wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
I don't want to spend $40 bucks on a RS 35mm seal driver, anyone got any leads on a cheap version. I usually do it the ghetto way but wouldn't mind a proper tool
unior ones are half the price. Never used them, so can't comment on quality, but I imagine they work ok

Thanks for the tip I will look into it

I got one in 34 and it gets the job done.

Posted: Oct 18, 2019 at 9:48 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
I don't want to spend $40 bucks on a RS 35mm seal driver, anyone got any leads on a cheap version. I usually do it the ghetto way but wouldn't mind a proper tool

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1392879/

Posted: Oct 18, 2019 at 10:32 Quote
So I guess the online shop where iI ordered my bleed kit messed up. Now I've got a bottle of DOT4 instead of DOT5. I'm guessing I can go ahead and use it anyways since it says "only Dot5.1 and DOT4" on my Guides. Only wanted to do a small lever bleed or do I have to do a full bleed now?

Posted: Oct 18, 2019 at 10:48 Quote
El-Mustachio wrote:
So I guess the online shop where iI ordered my bleed kit messed up. Now I've got a bottle of DOT4 instead of DOT5. I'm guessing I can go ahead and use it anyways since it says "only Dot5.1 and DOT4" on my Guides. Only wanted to do a small lever bleed or do I have to do a full bleed now?
it's fine, the fluids are soluble in each other.

Posted: Oct 18, 2019 at 12:26 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
Thread the bolt into the end to prevent thread damage and break out the dead blow.

Just a follow up on this. Properly braced frame and proper blow took out an axle together with bearing. No grease what so ever inside it and half of the bearings rusted completely. Axle is fine. Has edges that rest on both bearings from the inside.
No damage on any part of the frame

Posted: Oct 18, 2019 at 14:30 Quote
Bflutz625 wrote:
The Roadlink is what you're after as all it does it move the mounting hole down. The Goatlinks are for Shimano Direct mount derailleurs only as the Goatlinks replace the B-link that comes on Shimano shadow derailleurs from factory. Should get you exactly what you're after.

fxrextreme wrote:
You can get copies of the road link on ebay for a fraction of the cost!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163656525852

Hope this helps
Kes

Thanks! Ordered it earlier this week and will install today.

Posted: Oct 19, 2019 at 5:37 Quote
El-Mustachio wrote:
So I guess the online shop where iI ordered my bleed kit messed up. Now I've got a bottle of DOT4 instead of DOT5. I'm guessing I can go ahead and use it anyways since it says "only Dot5.1 and DOT4" on my Guides. Only wanted to do a small lever bleed or do I have to do a full bleed now?

Dot 5 is different from dot 5.1 and is not compatible with dot 4! See: https://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resources/faq/difference-between-dot4-and-dot51-brake-fluid/


 
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