Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Oct 21, 2019 at 13:44 Quote
Because my friend who races dh uses a 36t front ring and a 7-16 cassette with a short cage xo

Posted: Oct 21, 2019 at 13:51 Quote
It will work fine, you won't have the best chain wrap in the larger rings so sighting won't be as good as it would be on a 11-36

Posted: Oct 21, 2019 at 18:17 Quote
How does headtube length affect a bike handling or does it? Is it better to have a short HT or long I'm building my Marino frame and they come with a 125mm headtube length

Posted: Oct 21, 2019 at 19:17 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
How does headtube length affect a bike handling or does it? Is it better to have a short HT or long I'm building my Marino frame and they come with a 125mm headtube length
They will put the bars higher up which is usually beneficial to taller dudes, can also create a stiffer tt/ht/dt junction in certain situations.

Posted: Oct 21, 2019 at 19:23 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
How does headtube length affect a bike handling or does it? Is it better to have a short HT or long I'm building my Marino frame and they come with a 125mm headtube length
They will put the bars higher up which is usually beneficial to talk dudes, can also create a stiffer tt/ht/dt junction in certain situations.
Okay cool, just making sure

Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 5:56 Quote
Hi!when ridind in the 10-15C temperature, the suspensions begin to react slower. There is adjustements to make (LSC or rebound) to achieve the same feeling as when riding in summer temperature?

Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 6:07 Quote
lecoz wrote:
Hi!when ridind in the 10-15C temperature, the suspensions begin to react slower. There is adjustements to make (LSC or rebound) to achieve the same feeling as when riding in summer temperature?
It's cuz the oil in the damper is thicker dude to it being cold switch the oil out for a lighter weight

Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 8:44 Quote
Spesh Epic Expert 2007. The high pivot on seat tube has a lot of slop, which appears to be elongation of the female part of the shock 'arm'. I need to disassemble to diagnose, however the pin running through the pivot is firmly driven in there. I have removed the nut and tried gently tapping with a plastic mallet but no movement. Not sure whether some sort of press is required.

Any thoughts/previous experience greatly appreciated. Just had a thought...in meantime will try tapping and turning simultaneously.



Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 9:16 Quote
Zitch wrote:
Spesh Epic Expert 2007. The high pivot on seat tube has a lot of slop, which appears to be elongation of the female part of the shock 'arm'. I need to disassemble to diagnose, however the pin running through the pivot is firmly driven in there. I have removed the nut and tried gently tapping with a plastic mallet but no movement. Not sure whether some sort of press is required.

Any thoughts/previous experience greatly appreciated. Just had a thought...in meantime will try tapping and turning simultaneously.



Put the nut back so it will engage a good number of threads but stop before it bottoms out.
Hit the back of the nut with some force.
You won't damage the threads this way. Grab a piece of wood to place between the hammer and the nut if you don't want to score up the finish on the nut.
YMMV.

Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 10:00 Quote
I'm trying to remove the axle from my Next SL cranks but the non-driveside bolt is stuck any tips how to get it off. I was trying to remove it like in this video but it just won't come loose.


Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 10:40 Quote
Wale wrote:
I'm trying to remove the axle from my Next SL cranks but the non-driveside bolt is stuck any tips how to get it off. I was trying to remove it like in this video but it just won't come loose.

Those bolts are installed with a ton of torque and the wrench flat's are very shallow so they can be tricky to remove (and install) when really torquing on it as the 16mm allen wrench tends to slip out. Technique I use is to clamp the end of the crank arm at the pedal thread into rubber soft jaws in a vice, not too tight, just enough to hold it snug. Now you have both hands to work with. Lean on the end of the crank clamped in the vice with your elbow to hold it from slipping out when you start torquing, then use one hand to hold the tool in the bolt, and the other on the wrench to undo the bolt. Put your weight into it, you'll need alot of torque.

Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 11:01 Quote
freerider11 wrote:
Wale wrote:
I'm trying to remove the axle from my Next SL cranks but the non-driveside bolt is stuck any tips how to get it off. I was trying to remove it like in this video but it just won't come loose.

Those bolts are installed with a ton of torque and the wrench flat's are very shallow so they can be tricky to remove (and install) when really torquing on it as the 16mm allen wrench tends to slip out. Technique I use is to clamp the end of the crank arm at the pedal thread into rubber soft jaws in a vice, not too tight, just enough to hold it snug. Now you have both hands to work with. Lean on the end of the crank clamped in the vice with your elbow to hold it from slipping out when you start torquing, then use one hand to hold the tool in the bolt, and the other on the wrench to undo the bolt. Put your weight into it, you'll need alot of torque.

Do you think the crank can take the torque if I just push it like on the video?

Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 11:10 Quote
Wale wrote:
I'm trying to remove the axle from my Next SL cranks but the non-driveside bolt is stuck any tips how to get it off. I was trying to remove it like in this video but it just won't come loose.


You might make sure that the outer 16mm hex puller cap isn’t seated down fully against the 8mm hex bolt head. Otherwise that’s working against the bolt from unseating. There needs to be some gap between them. I haven’t pulled mine in a while and can’t remember if the puller cap can screw that far in though. So I may be off-base on the suggestion. It was the only thing I could think of other than putting a breaker bar to it. I put some pretty good torque on mine and never had that problem with lubed threads.

Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 11:19 Quote
Non drive side probably doesn't have the puller cap and 8mm bolt like on the drive side. It is probably just the single 16mm bolt that was used to tighten down the spindle. He probably has to remove the 16mm bolt (which is what I'm assuming is the one stuck), then install the 8mm bolt and 16mm puller cap to push the spindle off.

And yes, the crank will take that torque. Think of how much torque you're putting into the crank when hammering up a climb or landing a drop. Way more than you can put on it with a wrench...

Posted: Oct 22, 2019 at 11:29 Quote
My SixC crank has them on both sides. The axle is separate from both arms on a RF Cinch crank

The bolts only hold the arms in against the axle interface point. The actual torque when cranking is applied to the special interlocking face between the arm and axle.

SixC Cinch axle-crank interface


 
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