Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 7:51 Quote
Do your spokes have O-rings?

It’s either sealed at the tubeless tape contact surfaces or it’s not. Every time I ever had that problem that was always the issue.

Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 8:13 Quote
Hi guys. I feel foolish asking a question here as it's less than a year since I was in the trade and things seem to have moved on proper quick!

So I bought a second hand Rockshox Super Deluxe Debonair with an end like this:



It doesn't fit in my frame as the end with the bearings is too wide. Are these:


available narrower, or is it possible to take the stanchion off my existing Rockshox Deluxe and put it in the Super Deluxe?

Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 8:17 Quote
onyxss wrote:
coaster156 wrote:
Has anyone successfully cut around the valve of an old tube and used it to set up tubeless?
You will have no removable valve core, which in consequence mean harder setup of tubeless. Just buy proper like 7$ valves... :-)


My presta tubes had removable valve cores.

I have cut out the valve stem so that it fits into the center channel of the rim, bigger than proper valve cores.
I paint the base with some sealant before fastening it to the rim.
They work fine.

Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 8:30 Quote
Ok, thanks for all the advice guys. I'll try using valves from tubes first (I have ones with a removable valve core), if that doesn't work I'll use proper valve stems.

Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 11:01 Quote
vanillapodfan wrote:
Hi guys. I feel foolish asking a question here as it's less than a year since I was in the trade and things seem to have moved on proper quick!

So I bought a second hand Rockshox Super Deluxe Debonair with an end like this:



It doesn't fit in my frame as the end with the bearings is too wide. Are these:


available narrower, or is it possible to take the stanchion off my existing Rockshox Deluxe and put it in the Super Deluxe?

Stanchion is size dependent,RS spares catalogue gives you the options. The bearing mount ends are one size only.

Posted: Nov 8, 2019 at 23:45 Quote
Heyo. I've got a Truvativ Descendant Carbon Crank completely seized in my 2018 Transition Sentinel.

I haven't ever removed the crank since it was brand new and came with the original build on the bike.

I've removed both the 10mm cap on the non-drive side and the 8mm bolt inside the 10mm on the non-drive side.

I got the crank on the drive side to pull about 5mm away from the BB, just enough to get the crank to have plenty of play, and now it won't budge at all.

Tightening the crank bolt doesn't do anything. giving it a whack with a rubber mallet doesn't do anything either. It's just stuck.

I was trying to be a good bike seller and remove the crank to deep clean around the main pivot before selling the bike. Now I'm pretty screwed.

Any thoughts?

Both bolds are on the non-drive side, so I'm assuming the spindle is attached to the drive side. There's no info on SRAM's site and of course you can't just call them. I'm over an hour away from the closest bike shop.

Thanks!

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 0:15 Quote
codyolsen wrote:
Heyo. I've got a Truvativ Descendant Carbon Crank completely seized in my 2018 Transition Sentinel.

I haven't ever removed the crank since it was brand new and came with the original build on the bike.

I've removed both the 10mm cap on the non-drive side and the 8mm bolt inside the 10mm on the non-drive side.

I got the crank on the drive side to pull about 5mm away from the BB, just enough to get the crank to have plenty of play, and now it won't budge at all.

Tightening the crank bolt doesn't do anything. giving it a whack with a rubber mallet doesn't do anything either. It's just stuck.

I was trying to be a good bike seller and remove the crank to deep clean around the main pivot before selling the bike. Now I'm pretty screwed.

Any thoughts?

Both bolds are on the non-drive side, so I'm assuming the spindle is attached to the drive side. There's no info on SRAM's site and of course you can't just call them. I'm over an hour away from the closest bike shop.

Thanks!
The crank has a self extracting system, re-install everything the way it come out then only unthread the inner 8mm should get you sorted.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 3:57 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
codyolsen wrote:
Heyo. I've got a Truvativ Descendant Carbon Crank completely seized in my 2018 Transition Sentinel.

I haven't ever removed the crank since it was brand new and came with the original build on the bike.

I've removed both the 10mm cap on the non-drive side and the 8mm bolt inside the 10mm on the non-drive side.

I got the crank on the drive side to pull about 5mm away from the BB, just enough to get the crank to have plenty of play, and now it won't budge at all.

Tightening the crank bolt doesn't do anything. giving it a whack with a rubber mallet doesn't do anything either. It's just stuck.

I was trying to be a good bike seller and remove the crank to deep clean around the main pivot before selling the bike. Now I'm pretty screwed.

Any thoughts?

Both bolds are on the non-drive side, so I'm assuming the spindle is attached to the drive side. There's no info on SRAM's site and of course you can't just call them. I'm over an hour away from the closest bike shop.

Thanks!
The crank has a self extracting system, re-install everything the way it come out then only unthread the inner 8mm should get you sorted.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 9:08 Quote
JohnyBoy wrote:
vanillapodfan wrote:
Hi guys. I feel foolish asking a question here as it's less than a year since I was in the trade and things seem to have moved on proper quick!

So I bought a second hand Rockshox Super Deluxe Debonair with an end like this:



It doesn't fit in my frame as the end with the bearings is too wide. Are these:


available narrower, or is it possible to take the stanchion off my existing Rockshox Deluxe and put it in the Super Deluxe?

Stanchion is size dependent,RS spares catalogue gives you the options. The bearing mount ends are one size only.

Is it a difficult job to replace the shaft?

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 10:37 Quote
vanillapodfan wrote:
JohnyBoy wrote:
vanillapodfan wrote:
Hi guys. I feel foolish asking a question here as it's less than a year since I was in the trade and things seem to have moved on proper quick!

So I bought a second hand Rockshox Super Deluxe Debonair with an end like this:



It doesn't fit in my frame as the end with the bearings is too wide. Are these:


available narrower, or is it possible to take the stanchion off my existing Rockshox Deluxe and put it in the Super Deluxe?

Stanchion is size dependent,RS spares catalogue gives you the options. The bearing mount ends are one size only.

Is it a difficult job to replace the shaft?
The damper is contained within that shaft, so yes it is difficult.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 11:59 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
vanillapodfan wrote:
JohnyBoy wrote:


Stanchion is size dependent,RS spares catalogue gives you the options. The bearing mount ends are one size only.

Is it a difficult job to replace the shaft?
The damper is contained within that shaft, so yes it is difficult.

Any harder than removing a damper from a fork? I'm fairly good with mechanicy stuff.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 14:27 Quote
vanillapodfan wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
vanillapodfan wrote:


Is it a difficult job to replace the shaft?
The damper is contained within that shaft, so yes it is difficult.

Any harder than removing a damper from a fork? I'm fairly good with mechanicy stuff.
Significantly. Every small component needs to come out and be re-installed, damper needs to be bled after and charged with n2.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 14:29 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
vanillapodfan wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:

The damper is contained within that shaft, so yes it is difficult.

Any harder than removing a damper from a fork? I'm fairly good with mechanicy stuff.
Significantly. Every small component needs to come out and be re-installed, damper needs to be bled after and charged with n2.

Yeah I thought the nitrogen would have to be recharged. Guess I'll just sell it on.

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 14:56 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
vanillapodfan wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:

The damper is contained within that shaft, so yes it is difficult.

Any harder than removing a damper from a fork? I'm fairly good with mechanicy stuff.
Significantly. Every small component needs to come out and be re-installed, damper needs to be bled after and charged with n2.

Any reason as to why nitrogen is necessary and why normal air won't work?

Posted: Nov 9, 2019 at 15:16 Quote
Bflutz625 wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
vanillapodfan wrote:


Any harder than removing a damper from a fork? I'm fairly good with mechanicy stuff.
Significantly. Every small component needs to come out and be re-installed, damper needs to be bled after and charged with n2.

Any reason as to why nitrogen is necessary and why normal air won't work?

Probably something to do with the operating temperature inside the damper. IIRC nitrogen doesn't expand as much with heat and therefore offers a more consistent pressure.


 
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