Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Nov 20, 2019 at 11:43 Quote
Is it a direct mount or 4 bolt ring?
flag cyberoptixs
Posted: Nov 20, 2019 at 19:32 Quote
seraph wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
sosburn wrote:


why didn’t you just warranty it?

It was bought as a Xmas gift and by the time I got around to putting it on the bike it was a month later and didn’t think they would warranty it, so I just fixed it

The RaceFace warranty is 2 years Facepalm

Doesn’t effect me one bit the chain ring is strait and I didn’t have to wait for a warranty claim. Got trails to ride and shit to do
flag DaFreerider44
Posted: Nov 20, 2019 at 19:53 Quote
Stripped my syncros stem with a crappy torque wrench. HELP!?!?!?!
flag Bflutz625
Posted: Nov 20, 2019 at 20:02 Quote
Stripped or rounded?
flag thedad71
Posted: Nov 21, 2019 at 0:04 Quote
Can I put some 27.5 fox 40's on my 26 bike? Could I just move the stanchions up ¾ of an inch to compensate, or am I over simplify this?
flag naptime
Posted: Nov 21, 2019 at 0:25 Quote
running 27.5 forks on two of my 26" bikes, the difference is tiny you won't even notice it
flag R-M-R
Posted: Nov 21, 2019 at 4:12 Quote
thedad71 wrote:
Can I put some 27.5 fox 40's on my 26 bike? Could I just move the stanchions up ¾ of an inch to compensate, or am I over simplify this?

To keep the same static (unweighted) geometry, you want to shorten the fork by the difference in axle-to-crown length plus the difference in wheel radius. This would be roughly 1.5" if the wheel sizes were actually 26" and 27.5", but they're actually 26.8" and 27.8" for a 2.4" tire, so drop the fork about 1" to preserve geometry.

There's no reason you have to preserve the geometry, though.
flag thedad71
Posted: Nov 21, 2019 at 4:46 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
thedad71 wrote:
Can I put some 27.5 fox 40's on my 26 bike? Could I just move the stanchions up ¾ of an inch to compensate, or am I over simplify this?

To keep the same static (unweighted) geometry, you want to shorten the fork by the difference in axle-to-crown length plus the difference in wheel radius. This would be roughly 1.5" if the wheel sizes were actually 26" and 27.5", but they're actually 26.8" and 27.8" for a 2.4" tire, so drop the fork about 1" to preserve geometry.

There's no reason you have to preserve the geometry, though.
If I don't shorten the a2c measurement will it slackened the head angle or steepen it? Currently at 63.5° and don't want it any slacker.
flag newbermuda
O+
Posted: Nov 21, 2019 at 6:21 Quote
thedad71 wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
thedad71 wrote:
Can I put some 27.5 fox 40's on my 26 bike? Could I just move the stanchions up ¾ of an inch to compensate, or am I over simplify this?

To keep the same static (unweighted) geometry, you want to shorten the fork by the difference in axle-to-crown length plus the difference in wheel radius. This would be roughly 1.5" if the wheel sizes were actually 26" and 27.5", but they're actually 26.8" and 27.8" for a 2.4" tire, so drop the fork about 1" to preserve geometry.

There's no reason you have to preserve the geometry, though.
If I don't shorten the a2c measurement will it slackened the head angle or steepen it? Currently at 63.5° and don't want it any slacker.

slacken
flag BryanBobo
Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 6:31 Quote
Not sure what happened but I definitely effed something up. Was trying to remove my e13 cranks when suddenly I heard a pop and the nut on the end came out. Anyone know what happened here and if this is salvageable? I am new to e13 components and I can’t really tell what’s going on here. Crank is still snug and shows no signs of being able to be pulled off.

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flag Bflutz625
Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 7:19 Quote
Looks like the retaining bolt for the self extracting system had its head sheared off. If possible post another pic of the underside of that bolt on the right. Should confirm this suspicion. If it did shear the other side of that bolt would have a rough ring around the outer edge.
flag BryanBobo
Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 7:36 Quote
Bflutz625 wrote:
Looks like the retaining bolt for the self extracting system had its head sheared off. If possible post another pic of the underside of that bolt on the right. Should confirm this suspicion. If it did shear the other side of that bolt would have a rough ring around the outer edge.

I think you are spot on, man! I was able to extract the sheared part from inside the crank (red arrow) which I imagine used to be part of the piece on the left. Any idea if a new retaining bolt should fix this by threading in and extracting? Regardless of how much I grease it these e13 cranks always take so much force to remove. I can’t stand them.

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flag R-M-R
Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 9:04 Quote
e*thirteen had a manufacturing issue with that. Call them and they may be quite helpful.
flag BryanBobo
Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 10:02 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
e*thirteen had a manufacturing issue with that. Call them and they may be quite helpful.

Thank you! I’ll give it a shot!
flag james-skipper
Posted: Nov 23, 2019 at 14:41 Quote
Hi all, I need an idiot Check again! I'm just fitting my new brakes and I'm having trouble with the front mount (2017 Lyrik) Even though I'm pretty sure I've got the right adaptor the rotor is fouling before the wheel can get in all the way. Any ideas?

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