Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 13:51 Quote
patrickwhitesel wrote:
Nobble wrote:
patrickwhitesel wrote:


I took it in for a bleed as my pistons were not retracting (common issue with these brakes). The shop bled them once and and one of the pistons refused to move. They inspected it and said it was cracked.
It's PN: HBSP136
https://www.hopetech.com/_repository/1/documents/E4-Caliper-Exploded-view.pdf

I believe it's the same one as the "M4 series - large" for sale here:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-phenolic-caliper-piston/rp-prod9218

They do look the same. I will call Hope and then order if they are. Thanks.
If you look at the exploded diagram for the M4 on the hope website, it's the same PN.

https://www.hopetech.com/product-documents/brakes

Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 15:12 Quote
is it possible to use a non-magura pin/needle and olive on a hydraulic brake line ? like one(s) for a shimano ? or am i looking at it causing issues ? the magura brake are the MT trail carbon .

if anyone has tried or has some input i would just like to hear any helpful pointers . ive used shimano on Avid/Sram lines and no issues but figured id ask .

Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 15:15 Quote
im working on a friends bike and im having issues with a dub BB and descendant crank, the bike has a 73mm bb and is using a bb mounted chain guide, the manual says no spacers on the bb except for the bb mounted chain guide and a 2.5mm spacer on the spindle on the drive side.. so i did all that and the crank arm on the drive side hits the chainstay which doesnt make sense i tried the 4mm spacer and when torqued to spec you can barely spin the crank but it misses the chainstay by a mm

Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 15:37 Quote
Does anyone here have experience with these POS e13 LG series cranks not extracting? I sheared a removal cap a few weeks ago, they sent me a new one, tried with that one, that one stripped... This is a semi new bike and I remove these components and regrease at least 2x a year. These cranks were a pain in the ass the first time so I am thinking it’s by design that they are hard to remove. Any ideas on how to get these cranks off? So frustrating that I’ve wasted weeks on what would be a 5 min job on any other crankset I’ve ever owned. First photo is the first try, second photo is with the new one they sent.




Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 15:42 Quote
Are you sure there isn't supposed to be a washer in between the bolt and the cap? Sometimes if the washer isn't present, the bolt will bind against the cap and cause the cap to break. A washer allows it to spin.

Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 15:53 Quote
seraph wrote:
Are you sure there isn't supposed to be a washer in between the bolt and the cap? Sometimes if the washer isn't present, the bolt will bind against the cap and cause the cap to break. A washer allows it to spin.

It was in there and still no luck. These things were a pain when I removed them off the bike when it was basically brand new. Loaded it with grease when I reassembled assuming that would help. At this point if I get them off they are going in the trash. I’ve been so disappointed by the quality of the e13 stuff.

Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 15:55 Quote
Just received a new frame with a new 36 performance elite. Is it recommended to re lube it before 1st ride. Seem to remember folks on here saying anything under the factory series level often comes with little to no grease.

Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 16:33 Quote
scjeremy wrote:
Just received a new frame with a new 36 performance elite. Is it recommended to re lube it before 1st ride. Seem to remember folks on here saying anything under the factory series level often comes with little to no grease.
doing lowers is a good idea, but probably not necessary. Usually rockshox are the worst for not having the proper amount of lower oil from the factory. Still a bit of pre-service won't hurt!

Posted: Dec 8, 2019 at 16:38 Quote
FirstFox wrote:
is it possible to use a non-magura pin/needle and olive on a hydraulic brake line ? like one(s) for a shimano ? or am i looking at it causing issues ? the magura brake are the MT trail carbon .

if anyone has tried or has some input i would just like to hear any helpful pointers . ive used shimano on Avid/Sram lines and no issues but figured id ask .
it's best to use the correct fitting to match the lever, but it "could" work with different fittings. If I were you, I'd just spend the $2 on the proper ones.

Posted: Dec 9, 2019 at 8:09 Quote
scjeremy wrote:
Just received a new frame with a new 36 performance elite. Is it recommended to re lube it before 1st ride. Seem to remember folks on here saying anything under the factory series level often comes with little to no grease.

I always drop the lowers and pull the air spring assembly out. Doesn't matter fox or RS factory or ultimate etc.

It gives you an opportunity to lube the air spring shaft, air spring bushing area, and ensure there is not to much grease inside the air spring stanchion tube.

Also allows you to coat the bushings in the lower with a bit of bath oil and grease the dust wipers a bit too. Then of course putting back the correct amount of 20wt gold and 5wt Teflon fox fork oil.

Look on NSMB.com and there is a good article showing of those details on a fox 36 service.

It makes a huge difference trust me.

Posted: Dec 9, 2019 at 8:22 Quote
heinous wrote:
So you've not tried? I've experimented with piston position, and if the lever doesn't push enough fluid you have two problems - it doesn't run enough clearance retracted and can't account for wear.

Having run a full syringe+bucket bleed on this set up I'm starting to think it's likely not compatible. I've run XTR Race levers with saint and lots of other options, these are the first shimano levers that seem incompatible. When I say doesn't push enough fluid, I mean pushes far, far too little fluid.

So what was the verdict on this? I'm really curious as well. Planning on a set of either 8120's or 9120's, and I have a few spare 8000 levers that I typically bring on trips with me in the case I break a lever and need something to get me through the rest of the trip. Would be disappointing if I can't use my spares anymore...

Posted: Dec 9, 2019 at 8:35 Quote
freerider11 wrote:
heinous wrote:
So you've not tried? I've experimented with piston position, and if the lever doesn't push enough fluid you have two problems - it doesn't run enough clearance retracted and can't account for wear.

Having run a full syringe+bucket bleed on this set up I'm starting to think it's likely not compatible. I've run XTR Race levers with saint and lots of other options, these are the first shimano levers that seem incompatible. When I say doesn't push enough fluid, I mean pushes far, far too little fluid.

So what was the verdict on this? I'm really curious as well. Planning on a set of either 8120's or 9120's, and I have a few spare 8000 levers that I typically bring on trips with me in the case I break a lever and need something to get me through the rest of the trip. Would be disappointing if I can't use my spares anymore...
Use a thinner bleed block and advance the Pistons.

Posted: Dec 9, 2019 at 8:59 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
freerider11 wrote:
heinous wrote:
So you've not tried? I've experimented with piston position, and if the lever doesn't push enough fluid you have two problems - it doesn't run enough clearance retracted and can't account for wear.

Having run a full syringe+bucket bleed on this set up I'm starting to think it's likely not compatible. I've run XTR Race levers with saint and lots of other options, these are the first shimano levers that seem incompatible. When I say doesn't push enough fluid, I mean pushes far, far too little fluid.

So what was the verdict on this? I'm really curious as well. Planning on a set of either 8120's or 9120's, and I have a few spare 8000 levers that I typically bring on trips with me in the case I break a lever and need something to get me through the rest of the trip. Would be disappointing if I can't use my spares anymore...
Use a thinner bleed block and advance the Pistons.

Got that from your previous post, thank you. Just wondering if the OP actually tried this with good results.

Posted: Dec 9, 2019 at 9:36 Quote
freerider11 wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
freerider11 wrote:


So what was the verdict on this? I'm really curious as well. Planning on a set of either 8120's or 9120's, and I have a few spare 8000 levers that I typically bring on trips with me in the case I break a lever and need something to get me through the rest of the trip. Would be disappointing if I can't use my spares anymore...
Use a thinner bleed block and advance the Pistons.

Got that from your previous post, thank you. Just wondering if the OP actually tried this with good results.
Talked with several former coworkers who still wrench daily ALL of them have done this with good success.

Posted: Dec 9, 2019 at 9:48 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
Talked with several former coworkers who still wrench daily ALL of them have done this with good success.

Salute


 
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