Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Dec 13, 2019 at 13:08 Quote
TheFatRider wrote:
My brakes are producing what looks like very fine metal dust, almost like powder. They are also squeaking a lot. Is this normal?

Maybe.

Brake pads wear, and when they do, the pad material turns to extremely fine, black dust. If the dust is distinctly metallic, with particles large enough to shine like fine glitter powder, then something is wrong.

Some brakes make a lot of noise. There are hundreds of forum discussions on the internet about how to reduce this, none of which are likely to make a big difference if everything is currently tight, aligned, and in good condition.

For now, check the following:

• Pads still have friction material, i.e. they're not worn to the backing plates.
• Rotors aren't contacting the caliper, adapter, or frame.
• All fasteners are tight.
• Caliper is aligned straight with the rotor, i.e. it's not crooked.

Posted: Dec 13, 2019 at 16:05 Quote
Has anyone had any experience servicing formula freehubs? Struggling to even take the freehub body off mine, ran into a mystery size allen key which doesn't seem to fit anything. Any help would be appreciated

Posted: Dec 13, 2019 at 18:20 Quote
Hi, I think this is a common question, but maybe it has also a quick answer..
My RS Yari is like 10% stuck in his travel? What can I do? Any good tricks??
Maintenance are all made.

Cheers!

Posted: Dec 13, 2019 at 18:25 Quote
How much pressure are you running?

Posted: Dec 13, 2019 at 20:10 Quote
Tannex wrote:
Hi, I think this is a common question, but maybe it has also a quick answer..
My RS Yari is like 10% stuck in his travel? What can I do? Any good tricks??
Maintenance are all made.

Cheers!
Are you sure it's stuck? Measure the exposed stanchion don't measure based on the sag indicator.

Posted: Dec 14, 2019 at 7:38 Quote
wrote:
Maybe.

Brake pads wear, and when they do, the pad material turns to extremely fine, black dust. If the dust is distinctly metallic, with particles large enough to shine like fine glitter powder, then something is wrong.

Some brakes make a lot of noise. There are hundreds of forum discussions on the internet about how to reduce this, none of which are likely to make a big difference if everything is currently tight, aligned, and in good condition.

For now, check the following:

• Pads still have friction material, i.e. they're not worn to the backing plates.
• Rotors aren't contacting the caliper, adapter, or frame.
• All fasteners are tight.
• Caliper is aligned straight with the rotor, i.e. it's not crooked.


The metal particles are super fine, very, very powder like. The pads are not worn to the backing plate, but they are very thin. I ordered new pads yesterday.

Posted: Dec 14, 2019 at 8:13 Quote
wrote:
TheFatRider wrote:
Maybe.

Brake pads wear, and when they do, the pad material turns to extremely fine, black dust. If the dust is distinctly metallic, with particles large enough to shine like fine glitter powder, then something is wrong.

Some brakes make a lot of noise. There are hundreds of forum discussions on the internet about how to reduce this, none of which are likely to make a big difference if everything is currently tight, aligned, and in good condition.

For now, check the following:

• Pads still have friction material, i.e. they're not worn to the backing plates.
• Rotors aren't contacting the caliper, adapter, or frame.
• All fasteners are tight.
• Caliper is aligned straight with the rotor, i.e. it's not crooked.


The metal particles are super fine, very, very powder like. The pads are not worn to the backing plate, but they are very thin. I ordered new pads yesterday.
It could be the pad worrying touching the rotor aswell.

Posted: Dec 14, 2019 at 8:13 Quote
Tannex wrote:
Hi, I think this is a common question, but maybe it has also a quick answer..
My RS Yari is like 10% stuck in his travel? What can I do? Any good tricks??
Maintenance are all made.

Cheers!

Google burping a fork
If that doesn’t work you might need a rebuild

Posted: Dec 14, 2019 at 8:19 Quote
Have we ruled out the possibility that Tannex's fork has too much pressure in the negative spring which is causing the problem? Try pumping more air into your fork. This will push the lowers back down and will push the air piston to the equalization port. This may solve your problem.

Posted: Dec 14, 2019 at 16:37 Quote
Hey guys I was hoping you could help me out with a tubeless tire problem. I bought a pair of very lightly used Vittoria Mota/Morsa tires on here hoping to put them on my DH bike. I tried putting them on the Stans Flow rims which are still factory taped but they wouldn't seal well enough to seat onto the rim. Today I tried putting these same tires on my enduro bike which has Spank Oozy 345 rims and once again they wouldn't seat. I'm using a high capacity air compressor but I just can't get the bead set. Thanks

Posted: Dec 14, 2019 at 16:39 Quote
sambuswell wrote:
Hey guys I was hoping you could help me out with a tubeless tire problem. I bought a pair of very lightly used Vittoria Mota/Morsa tires on here hoping to put them on my DH bike. I tried putting them on the Stans Flow rims which are still factory taped but they wouldn't seal well enough to seat onto the rim. Today I tried putting these same tires on my enduro bike which has Spank Oozy 345 rims and once again they wouldn't seat. I'm using a high capacity air compressor but I just can't get the bead set. Thanks
If the bead is loose, throw a layer of gorilla tape on the rim to tighten things up

Posted: Dec 14, 2019 at 18:19 Quote
Scatchy01 wrote:
Has anyone had any experience servicing formula freehubs? Struggling to even take the freehub body off mine, ran into a mystery size allen key which doesn't seem to fit anything. Any help would be appreciated

The non drive side is a cap.
Difficult to pull off.

After you pull that cap off, there should be slot for a 12mm allen key in the axle.
The drive side has 2 flats, use that to take the axle apart.

Then the freehub should pull off.

Posted: Dec 15, 2019 at 9:38 Quote
does anyone know if a 10spd areo bar shifter will work with a zee mech or are the pull ratios different enough? If the 10 SPD won't work, would the 11 SPD?

Using this for a DT shifter on DJ bike.

Posted: Dec 15, 2019 at 10:05 Quote
talkingspoon wrote:
does anyone know if a 10spd areo bar shifter will work with a zee mech or are the pull ratios different enough? If the 10 SPD won't work, would the 11 SPD?

Using this for a DT shifter on DJ bike.
Get a friction shifter without indexing, you'll be okay.

Posted: Dec 15, 2019 at 14:07 Quote
Hi everyone. I’ve got a trek slash 9.8 with a press fit dub 92mm BB, long story short I need to buy new cranks but the ones I’ve bought are too wide !? I’m just wondering which ones should I buy. I originally bought the carbon descendants. Can anyone tell me which size or key words I need to look for that will fit my bike?
TIA


 
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