Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag JacobyDH
Posted: Jan 15, 2020 at 17:20 Quote
Dear Mechanics,
I recently bought a bike, and it had two main problems that I noticed. The first: the fork lockout does not work. The second: whenever I am walking my bike, the cranks turn. I’m pretty sure it is a problem with the cassette, but is it? Also, what can I do about it. The fork problem: lockout is a feature I would use a lot, so it is a good option for my bike. The fork I have is a 2017, or 2018 rockshox Tk30 silver. I run 2x10 shimano deore Setup. Anyway thank you for your time!

Thank you so much,
Jacoby
flag spaceofades
O+
Posted: Jan 15, 2020 at 17:48 Quote
JacobyDH wrote:
Dear Mechanics,
I recently bought a bike, and it had two main problems that I noticed. The first: the fork lockout does not work. The second: whenever I am walking my bike, the cranks turn. I’m pretty sure it is a problem with the cassette, but is it? Also, what can I do about it. The fork problem: lockout is a feature I would use a lot, so it is a good option for my bike. The fork I have is a 2017, or 2018 rockshox Tk30 silver. I run 2x10 shimano deore Setup. Anyway thank you for your time!

Thank you so much,
Jacoby
Re: the fork, the damper in those forks is somewhat prone to absolute destruction. There is either not enough oil in your damper or the damper itself is blown up.
For the spinning pedal, sounds like your freehub might be gummed up. Depending on your wheel, you may be able to pop off the freehub easily, or it might take a couple tools and a bit of disassembly. Either way, remove your cassete, then freehub body, then see (if you can) if theres any debris or thick grease in with your pawls. Clean it up, add some light lube (chain lube can work in a pinch) and put it all back together in the order it came apart.
flag Bflutz625
Posted: Jan 15, 2020 at 17:58 Quote
The fork problem may be coming from the possibility that the knob was not placed properly when manufactured. The knob may be hitting the crown before it is able to fully engage the lockout. To fix this, remove the lockout knob and with a pair of pliers turn the shaft that the lockout knob turns all the way clockwise. Now put the knob back on where the knob is in the lockout position and you’re done.

The cranks are doing this for the reason that Spaceofades provided. The free hub is probably chocked full of grease. This can pose the problem that you’re having but it can also prevent the pawls from fully engaging which can lead to the drive ring and pawls being mangled as they may only get partially engaged. You can probably bring it into the shop where you bought it and they can fix that problem for free as some shops offer free labour for the first few months some even a year as there are a few things that may need adjustment as everything settles into place.
flag JacobyDH
Posted: Jan 15, 2020 at 18:05 Quote
Thank you all for your quick responses, I will try your tips, and then come back if they don’t work.

Thanks,
Jacoby
flag newbermuda
O+
Posted: Jan 15, 2020 at 21:44 Quote
been going back and forth over new cranks the last month. but just had an idea;

currently have red (ew) RF Turbine cranks. they're super solid but i can't stand the red anymore, and its rubbed off from my shoes a ton already anyways. Pretty sure it's anodizing, so could i just use acetone to strip the color off and leave me some cool silver cranks?
if not that, how can i do so?
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 15, 2020 at 23:26 Quote
sosburn wrote:
could i just use acetone to strip the color off and leave me some cool silver cranks?
if not that, how can i do so?

Back in the days of anodized everything, the trick was oven cleaner. Anything with sodium hydroxide, presumably. Try acetone first, though, as it's a lot less unpleasant.
flag Hammer48
Posted: Jan 15, 2020 at 23:51 Quote
I think the problem with acetone is, it has a very fast flash point and may not work real well. Easy Off oven cleaner while it's a bit messy, would likely work better, and much faster. Also, aircraft paint remover will work, If you can get it.
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Jan 16, 2020 at 0:06 Quote
Hammer48 wrote:
I think the problem with acetone is, it has a very fast flash point and may not work real well. Easy Off oven cleaner while it's a bit messy, would likely work better, and much faster. Also, aircraft paint remover will work, If you can get it.
The trick is to get a bath of it and lay your parts fully submerged within
flag newbermuda
O+
Posted: Jan 16, 2020 at 7:39 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
sosburn wrote:
could i just use acetone to strip the color off and leave me some cool silver cranks?
if not that, how can i do so?

Back in the days of anodized everything, the trick was oven cleaner. Anything with sodium hydroxide, presumably. Try acetone first, though, as it's a lot less unpleasant.

good to know, thanks!
flag radatabs
Posted: Jan 16, 2020 at 8:19 Quote
sosburn wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
sosburn wrote:
could i just use acetone to strip the color off and leave me some cool silver cranks?
if not that, how can i do so?

Back in the days of anodized everything, the trick was oven cleaner. Anything with sodium hydroxide, presumably. Try acetone first, though, as it's a lot less unpleasant.

good to know, thanks!

Get the barbeque cleaner kits then it comes with the bag for the grill inside. Stick it in there with the over cleaner, give it a good shake and leave it over night
flag richierich1966
O+
Posted: Jan 16, 2020 at 8:22 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
sosburn wrote:
could i just use acetone to strip the color off and leave me some cool silver cranks?
if not that, how can i do so?

Back in the days of anodized everything, the trick was oven cleaner. Anything with sodium hydroxide, presumably. Try acetone first, though, as it's a lot less unpleasant.

Haha - I forgot about the Easy-Off! - that stuff eats anything! I can remember in the early '90s we used to tear down a half a dozen pairs of XT SPDs at a time, take them out back of the shop and spray them down with Easy-Off Lemon scented before polishing the cases and rebuilding with Action Tec or TNT titanium spindles and SKF sealed bearings. Presto - $350 SPDs we could model fast enough!
flag TheFatRider
Posted: Jan 16, 2020 at 11:25 Quote
My first time servicing my Fox RP2 shock with propedal. When I opened the air can, a ton of fluid came out. I have serviced other air cans in the past and usually they have little oil in them, but not a lot! Is this normal? And if so, what is the purpose of all that fluid?
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Jan 16, 2020 at 12:00 Quote
TheFatRider wrote:
My first time servicing my Fox RP2 shock with propedal. When I opened the air can, a ton of fluid came out. I have serviced other air cans in the past and usually they have little oil in them, but not a lot! Is this normal? And if so, what is the purpose of all that fluid?
That's your damper fluid, time for a full rebuild my friend.
flag chickenrunz
Posted: Jan 16, 2020 at 21:38 Quote
Hi, appreciate all your advice. When next changing the chain on my enduro I promise to use a better housing and cable, been researching that a lot now.

I have now started on researching rim spoke tension. Got myself a park tool and am practicing on the oldest bike first. Reason is I don't trust my best LBS i sent it there for spokes tensioning and my park tool says it's not evenly tensioned.

But nothing on the internet tells me the spoke tension ratio for left and right side spokes. Is there an easy ratio?

All my family members' bikes are mtb, 26 27.5 and 29 all disc brakes. All but one are the old QR 100 front 135 rear, one is thru axle 110 front 148 rear. No asym rims. All are round spokes alloy wheels.

Thanks for any pointers. I don't want to stuff up my new bikes but got a few old ones that I'm playing around with. Darn things tweak one spoke and the entire wheel is affected lol. Doesn't stop me trying though I don't know what ratio to aim for.
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Jan 16, 2020 at 21:48 Quote
chickenrunz wrote:
Hi, appreciate all your advice. When next changing the chain on my enduro I promise to use a better housing and cable, been researching that a lot now.

I have now started on researching rim spoke tension. Got myself a park tool and am practicing on the oldest bike first. Reason is I don't trust my best LBS i sent it there for spokes tensioning and my park tool says it's not evenly tensioned.

But nothing on the internet tells me the spoke tension ratio for left and right side spokes. Is there an easy ratio?

All my family members' bikes are mtb, 26 27.5 and 29 all disc brakes. All but one are the old QR 100 front 135 rear, one is thru axle 110 front 148 rear. No asym rims. All are round spokes alloy wheels.

Thanks for any pointers. I don't want to stuff up my new bikes but got a few old ones that I'm playing around with. Darn things tweak one spoke and the entire wheel is affected lol. Doesn't stop me trying though I don't know what ratio to aim for.

Some tension is a bit of an art. Aim for 120 kg-force on the drive side for the rear and disc side for the front. Wheel true is more important then perfectly balanced tension.

 


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