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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
Author Message
Posted: Apr 5, 2020 at 23:03 Quote
I don't have mine in my fork either that stupid C clip that holds the dial on is garbage and gets bent easily

Posted: Apr 6, 2020 at 13:36 Quote
Glad to hear!
Even so..
I noticed some oil in that part of the lower leg (I think is normal).
And if I compress the fork I can feel air (and maybe a little bit of oil) coming out through the hole.

Im curious abot this.. anyone knows??

Posted: Apr 6, 2020 at 13:41 Quote
Tannex wrote:
Glad to hear!
Even so..
I noticed some oil in that part of the lower leg (I think is normal).
And if I compress the fork I can feel air (and maybe a little bit of oil) coming out through the hole.

Im curious abot this.. anyone knows??

you shouldn't have any air or oil spurting out of the rebound dial regardless of if the adjuster knob is missing. Link us a pic or a vid for better diagnosis. At present i think either you are leaking some oil from the lower leg past the crush washer (the little ring in the pic you posted) or there is some damage to your damper where the hex key adjusts it.

Posted: Apr 6, 2020 at 13:50 Quote
Tannex wrote:
Glad to hear!
Even so..
I noticed some oil in that part of the lower leg (I think is normal).
And if I compress the fork I can feel air (and maybe a little bit of oil) coming out through the hole.

Im curious abot this.. anyone knows??


are you sure its coming out of the hole and not from around the bolt there is a crush washer that hold fluid in if its time to replace it the fork leaks, also make sure the rebound shaft is seated in the grove in the forl leg... can you easy turn that bolt if so tighten it up but still replace the crush washer.. bike shop should have the washer ans retainer if not bonded seals work good too

Posted: Apr 6, 2020 at 13:53 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
Tannex wrote:
Glad to hear!
Even so..
I noticed some oil in that part of the lower leg (I think is normal).
And if I compress the fork I can feel air (and maybe a little bit of oil) coming out through the hole.

Im curious abot this.. anyone knows??


are you sure its coming out of the hole and not from around the bolt there is a crush washer that hold fluid in if its time to replace it the fork leaks, also make sure the rebound shaft is seated in the grove in the forl leg... can you easy turn that bolt if so tighten it up but still replace the crush washer.. bike shop should have the washer ans retainer if not bonded seals work good too

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 7:00 Quote
Hi All,
I have a hope pro 4 hub and a ZTTO cassette and lockring. The cassette fits fine but the lock ring goes in a couple of threads and goes tight as if the threads are different. Does anyone know what might be causing this?

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 7:43 Quote
Mattybrining wrote:
Hi All,
I have a hope pro 4 hub and a ZTTO cassette and lockring. The cassette fits fine but the lock ring goes in a couple of threads and goes tight as if the threads are different. Does anyone know what might be causing this?
Are you sure it has not bottomed out? You could check by removing the cassette and putting the lockring on alone.
Could be damaged threads

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 8:00 Quote
Any reason a SRAM GX eagle lower jockey wheel wouldn’t work with SRAM X01 Eagle?

I have an X01 rear der. and one of the teeth broke off the lower jockey wheel...looking to replace with my old gx jockey wheel.

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 8:03 Quote
J1BB wrote:
Mattybrining wrote:
Hi All,
I have a hope pro 4 hub and a ZTTO cassette and lockring. The cassette fits fine but the lock ring goes in a couple of threads and goes tight as if the threads are different. Does anyone know what might be causing this?
Are you sure it has not bottomed out? You could check by removing the cassette and putting the lockring on alone.
Could be damaged threads


No the thread on the freehub is much deeper than the thread on the lockring. Could it just be that its tight so it doesn't come loose?

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 8:21 Quote
Mattybrining wrote:
J1BB wrote:
Mattybrining wrote:
Hi All,
I have a hope pro 4 hub and a ZTTO cassette and lockring. The cassette fits fine but the lock ring goes in a couple of threads and goes tight as if the threads are different. Does anyone know what might be causing this?
Are you sure it has not bottomed out? You could check by removing the cassette and putting the lockring on alone.
Could be damaged threads


No the thread on the freehub is much deeper than the thread on the lockring. Could it just be that its tight so it doesn't come loose?
isnt ZTTO aliexpress ? i woulnt trust that lock ring the QC on their stuff is pretty poor once ordera set of floting rotors from them and they werent even milled flat

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 11:07 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
Mattybrining wrote:
J1BB wrote:

Are you sure it has not bottomed out? You could check by removing the cassette and putting the lockring on alone.
Could be damaged threads


No the thread on the freehub is much deeper than the thread on the lockring. Could it just be that its tight so it doesn't come loose?
isnt ZTTO aliexpress ? i woulnt trust that lock ring the QC on their stuff is pretty poor once ordera set of floting rotors from them and they werent even milled flat

Yeah I wouldn't usually but i was struggling to find one in purple to match my other parts and that one was cheap

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 11:28 Quote
If it holds the cassette on tight I would run it

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 14:09 Quote
Mattybrining wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
Mattybrining wrote:



No the thread on the freehub is much deeper than the thread on the lockring. Could it just be that its tight so it doesn't come loose?
isnt ZTTO aliexpress ? i woulnt trust that lock ring the QC on their stuff is pretty poor once ordera set of floting rotors from them and they werent even milled flat

Yeah I wouldn't usually but i was struggling to find one in purple to match my other parts and that one was cheap

Use the lockring from your old cassette, as long as the outer flange is the same diameter it'll be fine.

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 15:02 Quote
a-prince wrote:
Any reason a SRAM GX eagle lower jockey wheel wouldn’t work with SRAM X01 Eagle?

I have an X01 rear der. and one of the teeth broke off the lower jockey wheel...looking to replace with my old gx jockey wheel.

It will work.

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 15:41 Quote
Anyone got any pro tips for bleeding shimano brakes?

I've had some air trapped in the rear on for a while now and can't seem to get rid of it completely. I've tried bleeding it with a syringe on the caliper and the pot on the lever and not really felt any improvement (I've bled plenty of shimano brakes this way successfully in the past).
Yesterday I bled it using the 'Marshy method' of oil in the pot, removing the bleed bolt from the caliper and letting the oil flush down through the brake. (The brake was removed from the bike and the caliper was hanging below the lever).

The front brake had been a bit spongy and feels solid now after the same process, and the rear feels better, but it you can still feel a slight inconsistencie when you pump the lever a few times.


 
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