Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 15:41 Quote
Anyone got any pro tips for bleeding shimano brakes?

I've had some air trapped in the rear on for a while now and can't seem to get rid of it completely. I've tried bleeding it with a syringe on the caliper and the pot on the lever and not really felt any improvement (I've bled plenty of shimano brakes this way successfully in the past).
Yesterday I bled it using the 'Marshy method' of oil in the pot, removing the bleed bolt from the caliper and letting the oil flush down through the brake. (The brake was removed from the bike and the caliper was hanging below the lever).

The front brake had been a bit spongy and feels solid now after the same process, and the rear feels better, but it you can still feel a slight inconsistencie when you pump the lever a few times.

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 16:02 Quote
dingus wrote:
Anyone got any pro tips for bleeding shimano brakes?

I've had some air trapped in the rear on for a while now and can't seem to get rid of it completely. I've tried bleeding it with a syringe on the caliper and the pot on the lever and not really felt any improvement (I've bled plenty of shimano brakes this way successfully in the past).
Yesterday I bled it using the 'Marshy method' of oil in the pot, removing the bleed bolt from the caliper and letting the oil flush down through the brake. (The brake was removed from the bike and the caliper was hanging below the lever).

The front brake had been a bit spongy and feels solid now after the same process, and the rear feels better, but it you can still feel a slight inconsistencie when you pump the lever a few times.

You've probably already tried this but what about tapping and rotating? taping lines, caliper and lever bodies? Rotating calipers and lever bodies around between taps and pushing more oil through?

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 16:17 Quote
dingus wrote:
Anyone got any pro tips for bleeding shimano brakes?

I've had some air trapped in the rear on for a while now and can't seem to get rid of it completely. I've tried bleeding it with a syringe on the caliper and the pot on the lever and not really felt any improvement (I've bled plenty of shimano brakes this way successfully in the past).
Yesterday I bled it using the 'Marshy method' of oil in the pot, removing the bleed bolt from the caliper and letting the oil flush down through the brake. (The brake was removed from the bike and the caliper was hanging below the lever).

The front brake had been a bit spongy and feels solid now after the same process, and the rear feels better, but it you can still feel a slight inconsistencie when you pump the lever a few times.

You need to pull up the service/bleed manual for your brake.

-edit, I meant to add there is an extra step, bleed the air into a bag. I found that taking your time and letting that air SLOWly bleed out into the bag . just make sure to keep filling oil in the bleed cup. do not let it get empty as it will introduce air. THat step really helped my slx.

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-MBBR001-01-ENG.pdf

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 16:39 Quote
dingus wrote:
Anyone got any pro tips for bleeding shimano brakes?

I've had some air trapped in the rear on for a while now and can't seem to get rid of it completely. I've tried bleeding it with a syringe on the caliper and the pot on the lever and not really felt any improvement (I've bled plenty of shimano brakes this way successfully in the past).
Yesterday I bled it using the 'Marshy method' of oil in the pot, removing the bleed bolt from the caliper and letting the oil flush down through the brake. (The brake was removed from the bike and the caliper was hanging below the lever).

The front brake had been a bit spongy and feels solid now after the same process, and the rear feels better, but it you can still feel a slight inconsistencie when you pump the lever a few times.

I use the Marshy method with the slight variation of using a SRAM syringe instead of the funnel to have a bit more control over the oil flushing through. I've found I can get air bubbles out better by using a long clear hose attached to the caliper bleed port, and moving fluid back and forth very slightly while it flushes through.
Once that's done, closing off the bleed nipple and doing a SRAM-style bleed with the top syringe to finish things off.

Best results come from leaving the brakes hanging up overnight with a bleed block in and the lever held closed by a strap. I have some old handlebars I use for setting this up.

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 17:36 Quote
On my Zees I push fluid up from the caliper to the cup... But before I do I tap all the air out of the syringe and then connect it and push it slowly, usually after I bleed them I hang the rear brake and every 30 mins take a screwdriver and with the handle tap the caliper to the lever and make any trapped air move, reinstall on bike and attach the cup and with fluid it in rapidly hit the lever making all the bubbles come out, if it still not good I just leave the cup on and come back every once in a while and finger bang the lever reinstall the pads and then with the cup attached pump it till it feels solid .. that's what I found worked for my shimanos

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 20:55 Quote
What spring rates would you recommend for some one that weighs about 210 lbs on a RockShox vivid r2c 200x57?

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 21:10 Quote
Austinbelarde wrote:
What spring rates would you recommend for some one that weighs about 210 lbs on a RockShox vivid r2c 200x57?

thats almost impossible to guess, why you ask? depends on what style suspension you have what the levergae ratio of your frame is and what style of riding you do... theres some spring rate calculator out there that will get you close, fox makes one, so does tf tuned and im sure there is more

Posted: Apr 7, 2020 at 21:20 Quote
Austinbelarde wrote:
What spring rates would you recommend for some one that weighs about 210 lbs on a RockShox vivid r2c 200x57?

There are many variables that go into this. Your best bet is to use the TF tuned spring rate calculator. This will give you a good starting point, however it isn't perfect and you may need to go up or down in date depending on your riding style.

Posted: Apr 8, 2020 at 6:40 Quote
This might be a dumb question but does anyone know the stock spring length on a giant glory advanced 0? the shock is a 200x57

Posted: Apr 8, 2020 at 6:59 Quote
Austinbelarde wrote:
This might be a dumb question but does anyone know the stock spring length on a giant glory advanced 0? the shock is a 200x57

It's 2.25 inches so what ever weight you want say you need a 500lb spring it will read 500x 2.25 it might even say 2.3 which gives you a few winds of preload to set your SAG

Posted: Apr 8, 2020 at 7:06 Quote
Thanks for the replies guys.

Posted: Apr 8, 2020 at 7:24 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
Austinbelarde wrote:
This might be a dumb question but does anyone know the stock spring length on a giant glory advanced 0? the shock is a 200x57

It's 2.25 inches so what ever weight you want say you need a 500lb spring it will read 500x 2.25 it might even say 2.3 which gives you a few winds of preload to set your SAG



The spring on there now says 400x3.0

Posted: Apr 8, 2020 at 7:30 Quote
Austinbelarde wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
Austinbelarde wrote:
This might be a dumb question but does anyone know the stock spring length on a giant glory advanced 0? the shock is a 200x57

It's 2.25 inches so what ever weight you want say you need a 500lb spring it will read 500x 2.25 it might even say 2.3 which gives you a few winds of preload to set your SAG



The spring on there now says 400x3.0

Whats the year of your bike

Posted: Apr 8, 2020 at 7:32 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
Austinbelarde wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:


It's 2.25 inches so what ever weight you want say you need a 500lb spring it will read 500x 2.25 it might even say 2.3 which gives you a few winds of preload to set your SAG



The spring on there now says 400x3.0

Whats the year of your bike

2016

Posted: Apr 8, 2020 at 7:39 Quote
Austinbelarde wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
Austinbelarde wrote:



The spring on there now says 400x3.0

Whats the year of your bike

2016

I think you have the wrong shock in your bike you should have a 9.5x3 or in metric which is 240x76 I would contact giant just to confirm


 
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