hey guys so ive been building wheels for a few weeks now and got it down pretty good my buddy i build for offered me a sick price if i build it up my rim choices are from bti ... i think im narrowed down to the DT Ex511 rim or spank 350 vibrocore or fr 560 and either a 240 or a hydra hub... there is a sick deal on the 240s hubs right now but the only ones available are straight pull 28s which i like but that narrows me to the ex 511 and cuts out the spanks and the fr560s... anyone have any deeper opinions and knowledge I am a heavy dude im like 260 and i ride hella hard... the way i build straight pull wheels they almost look stronger than j bend but are they ? Hydra vs 240s ? DT is releasing a new 240s with an internal ratchet which i dont care about but they are offering a closeout sale on their 2020 240s... i feel like its POE vs Reliability and ease of repair.
straight pull wheels they almost look stronger than j bend but are they ?
No significant difference for straight-pull vs. J-bend. The main advantage is to the manufacturer: straight-pull are faster to load into the wheel building machines, which is especially important for wheels built in countries where labour is more expensive.
Both hubs are nice. If the 240 is significantly cheaper, that's my recommendation.
The lowers are made of magnesium and any modification to them affects structural integrity.
Using that fork for anything bike related now, even commuting, is a really bad idea.
It doesn't matter what they're made of; any removal of material is likely to reduce strength - but that's not to say it will fail. Maybe it was stronger than necessary in the first place. Chris Porter claims he cut the arches out of a fork or two when testing different offsets and was still able to ride the fork. This doesn't prove the fork in the photo is sound, of course, it just puts into question whether every atom is strictly necessary.
Bottom line: I wouldn't advise buying it, specially to a stout rider ... but it may actually be fine.
I was thinking of grabbing it for my nephew's bike who is like 100 lbs but the risk isn't worth it, I would feel like a real jackass if something happened
Sorry to ask this question I am sure for the 1000th time on here but here goes... I am riding a 13' Trek Remedy and I have Avid 185mm rotors. Getting sick of trying to find new ones. Going to buy some new 180mm rotors instead. Do I need spacers and if so, what size please? Bonus question, anyone know what the max tire width I can go with on this bike? Thank you very much for the help. Trying to bring this baby back to life.
I was thinking of grabbing it for my nephew's bike who is like 100 lbs but the risk isn't worth it, I would feel like a real jackass if something happened
Now that's not so crazy. If you tell him and his folks they have to frequently check it for cracks, it's probably fit for purpose.
Sorry to ask this question I am sure for the 1000th time on here but here goes... I am riding a 13' Trek Remedy and I have Avid 185mm rotors. Getting sick of trying to find new ones. Going to buy some new 180mm rotors instead. Do I need spacers and if so, what size please? Bonus question, anyone know what the max tire width I can go with on this bike? Thank you very much for the help. Trying to bring this baby back to life.
But the correct 180 adapters for your bike and the corresponding rotors.
Hey so I have an evil insurgent, which has a shock size of 200x57, which comes out to 7.874 x 2.24 in. I'm looking at buying a marzocchi bomber coil, which has a size of 7.7875x2.5in which is a difference of 1-2mm ish... Would it fit? It seems so close, I would be surprised if they had sizes so close that weren't compatible. Thanks
Hey so I have an evil insurgent, which has a shock size of 200x57, which comes out to 7.874 x 2.24 in. I'm looking at buying a marzocchi bomber coil, which has a size of 7.7875x2.5in which is a difference of 1-2mm ish... Would it fit? It seems so close, I would be surprised if they had sizes so close that weren't compatible. Thanks
It would fit, but the extra stroke creates about 16 mm more travel, which could cause the seat-tube to be contacted by the swingarm's upper bridge or the rear tire.
Hey so I have an evil insurgent, which has a shock size of 200x57, which comes out to 7.874 x 2.24 in. I'm looking at buying a marzocchi bomber coil, which has a size of 7.7875x2.5in which is a difference of 1-2mm ish... Would it fit? It seems so close, I would be surprised if they had sizes so close that weren't compatible. Thanks
It would fit, but the extra stroke creates about 16 mm more travel, which could cause the seat-tube to be contacted by the swingarm's upper bridge or the rear tire.
They make a Imperial 7.7875" x 2.25” which is within a hair
hey guys so ive been building wheels for a few weeks now and got it down pretty good my buddy i build for offered me a sick price if i build it up my rim choices are from bti ... i think im narrowed down to the DT Ex511 rim or spank 350 vibrocore or fr 560 and either a 240 or a hydra hub... there is a sick deal on the 240s hubs right now but the only ones available are straight pull 28s which i like but that narrows me to the ex 511 and cuts out the spanks and the fr560s... anyone have any deeper opinions and knowledge I am a heavy dude im like 260 and i ride hella hard... the way i build straight pull wheels they almost look stronger than j bend but are they ? Hydra vs 240s ? DT is releasing a new 240s with an internal ratchet which i dont care about but they are offering a closeout sale on their 2020 240s... i feel like its POE vs Reliability and ease of repair.
I'm not as heavy as you, but have a lot of leg power and used to break hub pawls on the regular. My EX471/DT240 wheelset has lasted really well though, there's a few small nicks on the star ratchet rings but they haven't slipped or sheared. This was my Hope freehub after about a year of use:
Quick question guys, ripped a spoke out the rear wheel (29er, 32H) yesterday and wondering how safe it is to continue riding on that wheel? Local bike shops are pretty backlogged at the moment so don't think I will be able to get a replacement till next week at least. Cheers
I have a few reasons. The first is that if you apply slightly too much pressure you can very easily pop out the tool and say dot fluid everywhere. Second the resign of the caliper causes a regular Allen key to contact the caliper while installing the mounting hardware, a ballend unit must be used which is a pain trail side.
EDIT: They also leak like a f*cking c*nt and are less weatehrsealed then previous fitting
weird, I've literally never had a one pop out and I push pretty hard. Are you using a genuine SRAM bleed kit?
I think it's a great design and I've never experienced any issues with it.
Pro-kit and geniune fittings,. I'm not a shop rat anymore but ive been sprayed enough to swear off those fittings.
Been a while since i asked, but i've not been on PB for a while
I tend to agree with Nobble in as much as I've not had one pop out on me, and like the fact that you can close the port with the syringe still attached.
However I am 100% on board with your complaint about needing to use a ballended allen key to fit the caliper. That is a f*cking stupid bit of design on Srams part
Quick question guys, ripped a spoke out the rear wheel (29er, 32H) yesterday and wondering how safe it is to continue riding on that wheel? Local bike shops are pretty backlogged at the moment so don't think I will be able to get a replacement till next week at least. Cheers
Ripped it out as in pulled the nipple through the rim? If so (and the rim therefore needs replacing anyway) then you may as well keep riding it. If you are planning on refitting a spoke to the existing rim then no I would not ride it until that has been done.
Quick question guys, ripped a spoke out the rear wheel (29er, 32H) yesterday and wondering how safe it is to continue riding on that wheel? Local bike shops are pretty backlogged at the moment so don't think I will be able to get a replacement till next week at least. Cheers
Ripped it out as in pulled the nipple through the rim? If so (and the rim therefore needs replacing anyway) then you may as well keep riding it. If you are planning on refitting a spoke to the existing rim then no I would not ride it until that has been done.
Cheers for your reply.
Yes the nipple has been pulled through the rim. Looks as if the nipple 'bulge' has sheared off. Spoke hole in the rim looks ok, why would the rim need replacing?
EDIT: Ah right, I got you. Well my wishful thinking is the rim hole hasn't been enlarged if the nipple bulge hasn't been pulled through.