Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jun 27, 2020 at 22:21 Quote
Strange crank problem- I have a Rotor InPower crankset that uses a very similar setup to GXP on the non-drive side. It’s one of those bolt/extractor combo setups. I’ve had the cranks for about a year.

A few rides ago the crank bolt somehow came loose and I almost lost the non-drive crank arm on the trail. I was able to tighten things up adequately (I’m confident my multi tool couldn’t get me to the 35-40Nm spec) to get back to the car. When I got home I inspected the spindle and crank, degreased everything, and reinstalled with a generous coat of grease.

This probably lasted all of 3 hours, and the crank bolt came loose on a ride again.

I have to believe that after a year of trouble free service something has changed, but I can’t figure out what. I can’t imagine that I’d need to use threadlocker on a 40Nm bolt...

Thanks for any ideas.

Posted: Jun 27, 2020 at 22:23 Quote
DrPete wrote:
Strange crank problem- I have a Rotor InPower crankset that uses a very similar setup to GXP on the non-drive side. It’s one of those bolt/extractor combo setups. I’ve had the cranks for about a year.

A few rides ago the crank bolt somehow came loose and I almost lost the non-drive crank arm on the trail. I was able to tighten things up adequately (I’m confident my multi tool couldn’t get me to the 35-40Nm spec) to get back to the car. When I got home I inspected the spindle and crank, degreased everything, and reinstalled with a generous coat of grease.

This probably lasted all of 3 hours, and the crank bolt came loose on a ride again.

I have to believe that after a year of trouble free service something has changed, but I can’t figure out what. I can’t imagine that I’d need to use threadlocker on a 40Nm bolt...

Thanks for any ideas.
These likely depend on a taper to stay tight, if this has been damaged (ridden while loose) they will not be able to stay together very well.

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 2:29 Quote
Hi all can I ask, is the zefal pro 2 grease safe for use with carbon fiber?
zefal pro 2 and slickoleum

no one in the country has anything else stocked


its for installation of a pressfit bb and integrated headset

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 12:17 Quote
hey yall, question. I have a 2015 boxxer, it takes 0w30 oil in the lowers which I cannot find any where. If I use 0w20, will it effect performance or damage the fork? My fork already has stanchion wear, im not too worried about it but I just want to make sure it will run. Thanks!

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 13:56 Quote
gclarida wrote:
hey yall, question. I have a 2015 boxxer, it takes 0w30 oil in the lowers which I cannot find any where. If I use 0w20, will it effect performance or damage the fork? My fork already has stanchion wear, im not too worried about it but I just want to make sure it will run. Thanks!

Ya it should be ok. I’m running 10wt maxima oil in my Pikes lowers

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 14:08 Quote
gnarcissistictendency wrote:
gclarida wrote:
hey yall, question. I have a 2015 boxxer, it takes 0w30 oil in the lowers which I cannot find any where. If I use 0w20, will it effect performance or damage the fork? My fork already has stanchion wear, im not too worried about it but I just want to make sure it will run. Thanks!

Ya it should be ok. I’m running 10wt maxima oil in my Pikes lowers

All I know is I ran car engine oil in my marzocchi dj1s for 10 years... took them apart the other week and the oil is a good consistency still, no stanchion wear whatsoever either! Took my rockshox apart because even with 200psi they would extend back to full travel, sanctions are really worn. Coated them with Mobil super 2000 10w40 oil and put oil in both sides from the bottom and now the forks are running super smooth...

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 14:13 Quote
gclarida wrote:
hey yall, question. I have a 2015 boxxer, it takes 0w30 oil in the lowers which I cannot find any where. If I use 0w20, will it effect performance or damage the fork? My fork already has stanchion wear, im not too worried about it but I just want to make sure it will run. Thanks!

Yes, the first number is the more important one for our purposes.

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 14:45 Quote
gclarida wrote:
hey yall, question. I have a 2015 boxxer, it takes 0w30 oil in the lowers which I cannot find any where. If I use 0w20, will it effect performance or damage the fork? My fork already has stanchion wear, im not too worried about it but I just want to make sure it will run. Thanks!

It's bath oil. It really doesn't matter that much. If you are still within warranty period you should stick to whats specified, after that literally any old shit will do. The only rules are that it must be seal friendly, preferrably thicker than 5w and thin enough that it is able to splash around a bit inside the fork. I prefer something around 15w, but have used atf fluid in the past with no ill effects.

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 14:46 Quote
The most important thing is that you check and replace it regularly.

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 14:47 Quote
Thanks guys! Randomly found w30 in town here but great to know I can sub it out in a pinch. Love you all xox

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 17:21 Quote
Does anyone know what I would need to convert an I9 Hydra boost hub set to super boost?

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 17:22 Quote
padirt wrote:
Does anyone know what I would need to convert an I9 Hydra boost hub set to super boost?
it's not possible. super boost uses a 150mm DH hub shell.

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 18:06 Quote
Can you run 27.5 wheel on a 29er fork? I have the RS 35 (150mm)

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 18:28 Quote
sangier wrote:
Can you run 27.5 wheel on a 29er fork? I have the RS 35 (150mm)

Even with a 27.5x3.0 tire, you're not quite getting the same outside diameter as a 29" wheel and tire. But yes it is possible. You'll want to run as large a tire as you can get, most likely larger than a 3.0 tire.

Posted: Jun 28, 2020 at 20:44 Quote
Hey y’all,
Having a hell of a time with my 2018 lyrik. Did my lowers and swapped out my air spring from a 150mm to a 160 mm. Felt super slow after so I took it apart again and noticed that the damper is very hard to push in and out. Rebound does not seem to be working and I am getting suck down. What did I do wrong! Should the damper be hard to push in and pull out? Thanks in advance!
Josh


 
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