Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jul 31, 2020 at 15:20 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
chacou wrote:
Any suggestions on how to get this last bit of E13 LG1 EN Mopo tire onto the E13 LG1R (carbon) rim w/ Cushcore installed. I've watched all the videos and tried just about everything (bead on both sides pushed into the valley, soapy water, warming in the sun, etc.). The tire is by far the tightest tire I have ever tried to get on, even without the Cushcore on the rim it was difficult. Dual ply, very very tight wire bead. I've gone through 5 tire levers (Pedros and Park Tool, nylon levers) and don't really want to need to resort to a metal lever.

It's close but the last bit just will not go, breaks the lever or if working in from the sides it pops the opposite side out (have tried holding in place with zip ties and clamps), feeling very defeated Blank Stare Anyone ever experienced a tire tolerance being off, ie: a 29" tire actually being smaller than 29" and not able to fit?

Leave it somewhere hot for half an hour? In the back of your car on a sunny day for example. Chuck a cloth over it so its not in direct sunlight though.
Get a friend to hold one side of the bead in place by jamming a tyre lever in there, then work the other end onto the rim in the smallest steps possible, ie, put the tyre lever right up against the edge of the unmounted bit of tyre, rather than trying to pull 3 inch long sections of bead over the rim at once.

And yeah, e13 tyres are often crazy tight. I'd strongly advise against greasing it. If you really can't get it on, pay a good bike shop 20quid to do it for you.

When you get to the last part put the wheel on a solid surface and roll up a beach towel under the wheel opposite of the last bit. Now take the sidewall with the meaty part of your palm and push against the towel as you roll the tire up and in with both palms. I’ve given myself blisters with those tires but definitely possible with no lever.

Posted: Jul 31, 2020 at 17:43 Quote
Thanks!
Finally got it with extra help from a buddy and warming up the tire/wheel in the car trick.
Now, just nervous about needing to remove the tire when that time comes Wink

Posted: Jul 31, 2020 at 17:50 Quote
chacou wrote:
Thanks!
Finally got it with extra help from a buddy and warming up the tire/wheel in the car trick.
Now, just nervous about needing to remove the tire when that time comes Wink
Hope you put in a lot of sealant!

Posted: Jul 31, 2020 at 18:15 Quote
gcmartini wrote:
chacou wrote:
Thanks!
Finally got it with extra help from a buddy and warming up the tire/wheel in the car trick.
Now, just nervous about needing to remove the tire when that time comes Wink
Hope you put in a lot of sealant!

Haha, just hope it isn't for a few years!

I had to remove it once during the season I was riding cushcore, and it wasn't anywhere close to as bad the second time round.

However, after one season of riding it I found it became too loose to fit onto the rim, turning it into an expensive $100/rim tool/feature.

As for sealant, it'd be easier to just buy a sealant injector than to take the tire off to add more sealent (just make sure it's see through, whoever did the tools order for my shop decided that the best option was to get one (Mavic I believe, perhaps it was freebie with something from them) where we couldn't see how much sealant was being injected.....)

Posted: Jul 31, 2020 at 21:55 Quote
watch123 wrote:
gcmartini wrote:
chacou wrote:
Thanks!
Finally got it with extra help from a buddy and warming up the tire/wheel in the car trick.
Now, just nervous about needing to remove the tire when that time comes Wink
Hope you put in a lot of sealant!

Haha, just hope it isn't for a few years!

I had to remove it once during the season I was riding cushcore, and it wasn't anywhere close to as bad the second time round.

However, after one season of riding it I found it became too loose to fit onto the rim, turning it into an expensive $100/rim tool/feature.

As for sealant, it'd be easier to just buy a sealant injector than to take the tire off to add more sealent (just make sure it's see through, whoever did the tools order for my shop decided that the best option was to get one (Mavic I believe, perhaps it was freebie with something from them) where we couldn't see how much sealant was being injected.....)

Just get a small 2oz bottle of Stan’s race sealant and squirt it in though the presta valve, (after you take the core out). Refill the the small bottle and repeat for the second wheel.

Posted: 3 days ago Quote
I need some help sizing my chain for the Shimano 12 speed. I have the 45 SLX cassette, but the XT long cage derailleur. I realize this is the wrong combo, but I've been breaking the chain and recently bought a new one and want to get it right. LBS told me to wrap it around the largest cog, then add two links... seems super tight to me? Do they mean four - two inner, two outer? Thx

Posted: 3 days ago Quote
I generally go front ring, then big ring at the back and add 2. Only 2 links, not 4.

Posted: 3 days ago Quote
just to be clear, by two links you mean pin to pin is one link? ...not an inner and an outer? Thanks a lot.

and when you size it, you are not running it through the derailleur, right? and the master link counts as one of the two extra links?

Posted: 3 days ago Quote
this says add like six links for full suspension: https://dansbikeblog.com/article/how-calculate-correct-chain-length-shimano-12-speed-drivetrain

Posted: 3 days ago Quote
chacou wrote:
Thanks!
Finally got it with extra help from a buddy and warming up the tire/wheel in the car trick.
Now, just nervous about needing to remove the tire when that time comes Wink

This is what you need, the same tool is branded by a couple of different outfits. I have a BBB one and it has never let me down getting a tight bead on.

https://www.probikekit.co.uk/bicycle-tyre-tubular-accessories/challenge-tyre-bead-seating-tool/12304882.html?switchcurrency=GBP&shippingcountry=GB&utm_source=AWin-477705&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=AffiliateWin%7CFeed&affil=awin&utm_content=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.shoptail.eu%2F&utm_term=Direct+Linking&utm_source=AWin-477705&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=AffiliateWin&awc=3977_1596318330_58143e7854dea9184d150e3f6ad883ba

Posted: 3 days ago Quote
Big rings + 2 links is hardtail sizing. It *might* work on some full suss bikes, but you are better off sizing it specifically to your bike.

Fit the chain but don't join it. Let the air out/take the spring off your rear shock and fully compress the suspension. Pull the mech as tight as you would ever want it then measure the chain. This is the minimum chain length allowable on your bike.

Posted: 2 days ago Quote
My personal rule for full sus bikes is to go to the hardest gear and size it so that the chain isn't slack. Then check it in the big gear and make sure it's not too short.

That way if it breaks on a ride you might be able to pull a link out and keep riding.

Posted: 2 days ago Quote
Does anyone have a clean method or preferred tool for pulling blind bearings, especially when a pair is closely spaced, such as at a chainstay pivot?

I'm aware of slide hammer kits and the BearingProTools kits. Any other favourite tools or methods?

Thanks!

Posted: 2 days ago Quote
R-M-R wrote:
Does anyone have a clean method or preferred tool for pulling blind bearings, especially when a pair is closely spaced, such as at a chainstay pivot?

I'm aware of slide hammer kits and the BearingProTools kits. Any other favourite tools or methods?

Thanks!

We use a slide hammer and I've yet to find a bearing it can't remove. That said, Specialized makes a bearing pivot service kit that works really well for smaller bearings. I'm not sure they sell it to the general public though, or even make it anymore.

Posted: 2 days ago Quote
I'll see if I can find one for a reasonable price, though it doesn't sound likely.

Thanks!


 
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