Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 13:33 Quote
Might be worth checking the condition of your gear cable if the shifting is feeling sluggish at the shifter.

If you go down a chainring size you'll have a lower top gear, so bear that in mind.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 13:37 Quote
Upgrading your derailleur will not make it shift smoother. All the indexing is in the shifter so make the upgrade there.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 13:43 Quote
dingus wrote:
Might be worth checking the condition of your gear cable if the shifting is feeling sluggish at the shifter.

If you go down a chainring size you'll have a lower top gear, so bear that in mind.

Thanks, Dingus! I think the cable's okay---I just feel that Deore derailleurs lack snappiness. I swapped out a Deore for an XT on my last bike and loved the difference.

I might try at 28t chainring, just because it's the cheapest way to get a lower gear.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 13:44 Quote
flydyl wrote:
I have a 1x ten-speed MTB (2019 Norco Fluid FS 4).

* I'd like it to climb the steep stuff more easily. What do you think I should do?

* The lowest gear is 30t x 42t. So I'm hoping to go up to a 46t or 50t cassette. Or maybe down to a 28t chainring?
* I also dislike the Deore rear derailleur (sluggish), and would like to upgrade it to an XT or similar.

--> if I'm already buying a new cassette and rear derailleur should I convert to an 11-speed setup?
--> if I switch to a 46t or 50t cassette, would I need a Goat Link or something like it?
--> could I just buy a 26t or 28t chainring?
--> was thinking XT cassette, derailleur, and shifter. Or would you suggest something else?

https://www.norco.com/bike-archives/2019/fluid-fs-4/

Might need a goat link but you could also try playing around with your B-Tension screw.

If you have the Deore SGS (long cage) M6000 derailleur I think you should be able to go up to 46t without much effort. I know the product page says that 36t is the max low sprocket but IIRC it was specced that way for 2x10 setups. On a 1x10 the long cage should be able to take 11-46 without the chain wrap being super extreme.

Looks like it's also a direct mount ring on the crank so cheapest option would be to go down to a 28t instead of having to buy a new cassette and start playing with a goatlink and B-Tension.

Also like the others said, if your shifting feels sluggish it's more to do with the cable rather than the shifters or the derailleur. The derailleur just moves to whatever position the index shifter tells it to. I think to a small extent the level of the derailleur (and possibly the "pull ratio" though SRAM is always 1:1 pull ratio so maybe not) does matter but it's more to do with weight savings and bling IMO.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 13:49 Quote
flydyl wrote:
--> if I switch to a 46t or 50t cassette, would I need a Goat Link or something like it?/
With a 46, maybe, with a 50 definitely.
flydyl wrote:
--> could I just buy a 26t or 28t chainring?
Crank looks like a direct mount so you could get a smaller 28T direct mount chainring if SR Suntour makes one (or if they are licensing someone else Direct mount system)
flydyl wrote:
--> was thinking XT cassette, derailleur, and shifter. Or would you suggest something else?
Shimano doesn't make a 10speed cassette with 11-46 or 11-50ranges . Try Sunrace

As others mentioned, start first by replacing your old cable and housing before buying a new der or shifter to make the shifting crisper, and if its still not great then get a 10spd Shimano shifter in SLX or XT.

EDIT: remember that you probably will need a new (longer) chain if you put a bigger cassette on.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 14:08 Quote
dingus wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
As someone said above, trying to apply it to the pistons without removing them from the caliper first is likely to do little more than just attract dust.

It's interesting that Hope suggests doing so to cure sticky pistons. The SRAM Guide service manual says to use brake fluid for a rebuild and specifically mentions not using grease.

Hydraulic fluid works OK to scrub off baked on dirt, but I would not call it a lubricant.

best practice is to push the pistons out a bit and give them a good cleaning on a regular basis, silicone based stuff will help to stop cac sticking to them once clean and shiny.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 14:21 Quote
freestyIAM wrote:
flydyl wrote:
--> if I switch to a 46t or 50t cassette, would I need a Goat Link or something like it?/
With a 46, maybe, with a 50 definitely.
flydyl wrote:
--> could I just buy a 26t or 28t chainring?
Crank looks like a direct mount so you could get a smaller 28T direct mount chainring if SR Suntour makes one (or if they are licensing someone else Direct mount system)
flydyl wrote:
--> was thinking XT cassette, derailleur, and shifter. Or would you suggest something else?
Shimano doesn't make a 10speed cassette with 11-46 or 11-50ranges . Try Sunrace

As others mentioned, start first by replacing your old cable and housing before buying a new der or shifter to make the shifting crisper, and if its still not great then get a 10spd Shimano shifter in SLX or XT.

EDIT: remember that you probably will need a new (longer) chain if you put a bigger cassette on.

Shimano does do an 11-46 ten speed if that helps

https://www.rei.com/product/182360/shimano-deore-cs-m4100-10-speed-cassette?CAWELAID=120217890010751714&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15877513960&CATCI=pla-317648189431&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7c21700000001700551_1823600002%7c92700051069603658%7cnone%7c71700000062010308&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqfz6BRD8ARIsAIXQCf3jps4bOnXXqU5OP9fMLzrCyjY167Jd423ZNwTuRdU005WXx4zCCbUaAhZEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 14:27 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
Shimano does do an 11-46 ten speed if that helps

https://www.rei.com/product/182360/shimano-deore-cs-m4100-10-speed-cassette?CAWELAID=120217890010751714&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15877513960&CATCI=pla-317648189431&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7c21700000001700551_1823600002%7c92700051069603658%7cnone%7c71700000062010308&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqfz6BRD8ARIsAIXQCf3jps4bOnXXqU5OP9fMLzrCyjY167Jd423ZNwTuRdU005WXx4zCCbUaAhZEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Learn something new everyday. That said, it looks like Shimano did that thing again where they kept all the same lower cogs and just change the big cog so the 11-46 cassette has a bigger jump up to the 46T ring than the Sunrace cassette (37T to 46T vs 40T to 46T)

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 15:35 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
Nobble wrote:
xoxohighlyfexoxo wrote:
noticed that my chain is now downshifting two gears when backpedaling. itll eventually bind up if i keep backpedaling.
sram X1 1x11. this is a new occurrence and i could backpedal forever with no issues before.

thinking its either a bent hanger or it just needs some derailleur adjustment.
any ideas?
derailleur has no effect on backpedaling.

It's probably just the chain wearing allowing more lateral movement. All 11spd drivetrains do it to some degree

That's probably the correct answer. Could also be insufficient chain tension and/or excessive drivetrain friction. Ensure the:

• Freebody bearings are turning well
• The chain and cassette and clean and well lubed
• B-tension is correct
• Control arm spring seems to be working normally (i.e. the control arm isn't slack)

chain's been replaced since it needed doing anyways. still got the issue. next step is gonna be replacing the derailleur hanger since i had a rock strike on it recently. then i'll do a full adjustment.

also noticed a tooth missing on one of the pulleys so that'll get replaced too.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 15:37 Quote
seraph wrote:
dingus wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
As someone said above, trying to apply it to the pistons without removing them from the caliper first is likely to do little more than just attract dust.

It's interesting that Hope suggests doing so to cure sticky pistons. The SRAM Guide service manual says to use brake fluid for a rebuild and specifically mentions not using grease.

Maybe SRAM has a tighter tolerance on their pistons than Hope does?


I'd be stunned if that were true. Sram tolerances are generally not great. Hope are a low volume manufacturer in comparison and likely to have much better controll over their tolerances.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 15:55 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
seraph wrote:
dingus wrote:


It's interesting that Hope suggests doing so to cure sticky pistons. The SRAM Guide service manual says to use brake fluid for a rebuild and specifically mentions not using grease.

Maybe SRAM has a tighter tolerance on their pistons than Hope does?


I'd be stunned if that were true. Sram tolerances are generally not great. Hope are a low volume manufacturer in comparison and likely to have much better controll over their tolerances.

Yeah but since SRAM's brakes suffer from sticky pistons pretty often I'm guessing the fit between the pistons and the calipers is pretty tight lol

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 21:32 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
I need to change my chain, should i buy shimano or something different any recommendations ? for 11 speed shimano

Just use what's manufacturer recommended. Shimano with shimano, sram with sram, kmc if it's your last option. They all say they're compatible (until you get into 12 speed territory, then it's a different ballgame) and, while that may be true, you'll never get the optimal performance by mixing brands. In simpler terms....Shimano is designed to run shimano chains so just do that.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 21:39 Quote
I have been running KMC and SRAM chains for the last several years on Shimano or Sunrace cassettes and there has been zero difference in 10 or 11 speed performance.

Posted: Sep 14, 2020 at 22:05 Quote
Yea, I would buy whatever you can get the best deal on, KMC Shimano SRAM all make good chains.

Posted: Sep 15, 2020 at 5:56 Quote
There’s a pretty good article about chains that’s been posted a couple times already but warrants a repost.

https://cyclingtips.com/2019/12/the-best-bicycle-chain-durability-and-efficiency-tested/

The upshot of it seemed to be sram makes pretty good durable chains but robs a bit of your hard work with inefficiency. Shimano makes a decent chain that is pretty good balance of both. KMC and ybn make decent chains that can do both to varying degrees of success. I’m pretty sure the recommended 11 speed was shimano ultegra and up or the ybn chain. The other interesting part was how much tougher the chains have gotten as tolerances have decreased.


 
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