Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 3:35 Quote
PBCpeugeot wrote:
Rockshox Recon TK silver solo air FS-RCNS-TK-A2 not sure of exact year,
question: can I use a newer compression damper cartridge in an older fork?
my damper has a broken lip at the bottom that holds the seal in place, and I can't find an exact replacement,

Probably. The inner stanchion diameter is very unlikely to have changed. As long as the new damper is the same length, same diameter, and has the same threading on the top cap you will be fine.

Watch out for the top cap threading though. Thats the most likely thing to have changed. If it has changed you can probably combine parts from the newer and older damper to cobble something together. It's hard to be any more specific without more info though.


You can work out what year the fork is by looking at the code on the back of the csu. The first number after the T is the year of manufacture.

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 7:53 Quote
riish wrote:
Started experiencing frequent slipping from my drivetrain - the chain is about due to be replaced and the cassette with it as they just now measure 0.75 on my chain checker. However, that shouldn't be worn enough to slip like this in every single gear, and the N/W teeth seem too tall to have the chain be skipping there.

Could it be the star ratchet rings in my 240s hub? Have had the hub for 5 years now, they look like they're in OK condition but maybe the wear isn't super visible on those small wedge teeth.
It definitely could be, are you running the 54t ratchets?

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 8:34 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
PBCpeugeot wrote:
Rockshox Recon TK silver solo air FS-RCNS-TK-A2 not sure of exact year,
question: can I use a newer compression damper cartridge in an older fork?
my damper has a broken lip at the bottom that holds the seal in place, and I can't find an exact replacement,

Probably. The inner stanchion diameter is very unlikely to have changed. As long as the new damper is the same length, same diameter, and has the same threading on the top cap you will be fine.

Watch out for the top cap threading though. Thats the most likely thing to have changed. If it has changed you can probably combine parts from the newer and older damper to cobble something together. It's hard to be any more specific without more info though.


You can work out what year the fork is by looking at the code on the back of the csu. The first number after the T is the year of manufacture.

thanks for the reply, so T3 would be 2013 then? is there any type of color code on the dampers?
just guessing, blue 30mm, yellow 32mm steel, black 32mm alloy, and threading would follow that? with 32 steel having a larger ID than 32 alloy due to wall thickness? or did they use the same thread on steel and alloy?
my old damper is yellow plastic with 43-4015-016-010 on it, steel 32mm tubes for 29" wheel
and I found for sale at several on line dealers a 2011 damper 11.4015.306.000 just not sure that it will fit
I am also guessing the 26" damper is shorter than a 29" damper?
this is an old fork I just want to make work for a beater bike, so I dont care if going from a 2013 to a 2011 damper is a bit of a downgrade, from the pics it appears the only change is the lockout lever went from being held on with a snap ring to a screw

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 8:46 Quote
riish wrote:
Started experiencing frequent slipping from my drivetrain - the chain is about due to be replaced and the cassette with it as they just now measure 0.75 on my chain checker. However, that shouldn't be worn enough to slip like this in every single gear, and the N/W teeth seem too tall to have the chain be skipping there.

Could it be the star ratchet rings in my 240s hub? Have had the hub for 5 years now, they look like they're in OK condition but maybe the wear isn't super visible on those small wedge teeth.
had this happen on a cheap nukeproof rear hub, thought it was the chain also went to stand up to pedal one day and stripped 75 percent of the teeth off the ring gear

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 10:09 Quote
riish wrote:
Started experiencing frequent slipping from my drivetrain - the chain is about due to be replaced and the cassette with it as they just now measure 0.75 on my chain checker. However, that shouldn't be worn enough to slip like this in every single gear, and the N/W teeth seem too tall to have the chain be skipping there.

Could it be the star ratchet rings in my 240s hub? Have had the hub for 5 years now, they look like they're in OK condition but maybe the wear isn't super visible on those small wedge teeth.

Wear would be very visible on the Star Ratchet.

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 11:01 Quote
Nobble wrote:
riish wrote:
Started experiencing frequent slipping from my drivetrain - the chain is about due to be replaced and the cassette with it as they just now measure 0.75 on my chain checker. However, that shouldn't be worn enough to slip like this in every single gear, and the N/W teeth seem too tall to have the chain be skipping there.

Could it be the star ratchet rings in my 240s hub? Have had the hub for 5 years now, they look like they're in OK condition but maybe the wear isn't super visible on those small wedge teeth.
It definitely could be, are you running the 54t ratchets?

18t. I took it apart again, I think I can see very slight wear on the edges of the ring teeth.

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 13:23 Quote
I lost - dont ask Big Grin - the seals of my Stans Neo Freehub.

They are unavailable in Europe as it seems, any idea how to replace them? Is there like any industriy standard seal i can use?

https://www.notubes.com/kit-neo-freehub-seals-black

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 13:53 Quote
a-aha,

Contact Stans. There's a chance it's an off-the-shelf part, but I'm not optimistic.

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 17:29 Quote
I was changing my brake pads then when I was tightening up the pin the top piece broke off on one of the sides. I over torgued it I guess, It still got threaded on one side. Will this be okay when braking or should I get a new caliper asap?

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 17:41 Quote
rsmisko wrote:
I was changing my brake pads then when I was tightening up the pin the top piece broke off on one of the sides. I over torgued it I guess, It still got threaded on one side. Will this be okay when braking or should I get a new caliper asap?
new caliper

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 17:47 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
rsmisko wrote:
I was changing my brake pads then when I was tightening up the pin the top piece broke off on one of the sides. I over torgued it I guess, It still got threaded on one side. Will this be okay when braking or should I get a new caliper asap?
new caliper

Likely, but there's a chance it's functional if it's just a pad retention tab. Photos would be helpful.

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 18:38 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
rsmisko wrote:
I was changing my brake pads then when I was tightening up the pin the top piece broke off on one of the sides. I over torgued it I guess, It still got threaded on one side. Will this be okay when braking or should I get a new caliper asap?
new caliper

Likely, but there's a chance it's functional if it's just a pad retention tab. Photos would be helpful.

No idea how to add my photo.

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 18:41 Quote
rsmisko wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:

new caliper

Likely, but there's a chance it's functional if it's just a pad retention tab. Photos would be helpful.

No idea how to add my photo.

need to upload it to your profile then come on the fourm in desktop mode click the link icon above the chat box and copy and paste the PB link and then post

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 18:43 Quote
i seen it on your profile my opinion is that its fubar and time for a new caliper..

Posted: Oct 18, 2020 at 18:48 Quote
rsmisko wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:

new caliper

Likely, but there's a chance it's functional if it's just a pad retention tab. Photos would be helpful.

No idea how to add my photo.


 
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