Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag maxcogley
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 0:33 Quote
Trudeez wrote:
maxcogley wrote:
Hi im trying to start a small bike shop in my garage, and I've been looking for tools, this is the list I've come up with to do a full service of my bike, could someone please tell me if I need to change anything (add or take away.)

Park tool cleaning brush set
Shimano disc brake mineral oil
park tool chain gang cleaning system
park tool stand mounted truing stand
park tool pcs 4-1 deluxe home mechanic repair stand
park tool chain whip and sprocket remover
park tool chain wear indicator
muc off ceramic wet lube
muc off ceramic dry lube
Lifeline pro universal brake bleed kit
park tool spoke wrench sw-0
park tool spoke wrench 3.45 mm red
park tool dummy hub
park tool high performance grease
park tool chainring nut wrench
park tool bottom bracket/casset lockring tool
park tool rotor truing fork
park tool master pliers
Allen keys, torx wrenches and chainbreakers i have at home.

Cheers, Max

I think others have made mention of a few but here's my $0.02....some are dependent on exactly what components your bike is specced with (press fit vs threaded bb, for example) and, if you're planning on working on multiple bikes (because it seems every bike has different bb and headset requirements).

Skip the overpriced park tool grease. Buy high quality waterproof grease from your local MOTO shop (plus they'll appreciate the business). Maxima waterproof and Bel-Ray waterproof are my go-to. Also a lighter grease for things like hubs - I really like the Dumonde Micro Resistance or the Finish Line Ceramic.

10000% skip the muc-off chain lube. IMO the stuff is absolute garbage. We get much much better results with Rock N Roll, Pro-Link Gold and recently have been using the Tru-Tension stuff with nice results. This site has some real results on a bench test and you can read up in depth about lots of different lubes. They're equally anti Muc-Off.

https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/

Headset and bottom bracket cup removers (again, this could be bike specific....if you have a threaded BB and ZS headset then you wouldn't need them, but if you're trying to expand your business they you'd 100% need them).

Also, in conjunction with the cup removers, you'll need a good quality headset and BB press. Massive time saver and will stop you from making any mistakes when pressing in your cups.

https://www.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover-rt-1

The converse of the above also holds, if you have threaded bottom brackets then you'll need the appropriate BB tools. And there are seemingly a dozen different types so start with the one you need and expand from there.

Hayes caliper alignment tool. ABSOLUTE NECESSITY.

Definitely invest in a good accurate torque wrench. You'll want to spend the extra money here.

Hanger alignment tool. You'll use it more than you'd think. Alternatively, keep a few extra hangers in your tool box. They bend quite easy and you'll be surprised how often you'll find that your is actually out of alignment, even if only just.

https://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2-2



Thanks mate
The hanger alignment tool is quite pricy do you think its worth the money.
What rock and roll lube/lubes are the best?
The hayes calliper alignment tool looks like a good buy and I will try and find a way to get my hands on one of those
I have a good variety of torque wrenches at home so I should be right on that part.
I don't know too much about bottom brackets but I will have to do a bit more research about that
The headset cup remover seems alright but it is also pretty pricy
I'll try and find some good grease around, recommendations welcome Smile
flag maxcogley
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 0:37 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
maxcogley wrote:
Hi im trying to start a small bike shop in my garage, and I've been looking for tools, this is the list I've come up with to do a full service of my bike, could someone please tell me if I need to change anything (add or take away.)

Cheers, Max

Max,

Is it just your bike you are working on or will you be conducting repairs on bikes for friends and family? If I where equipping myself for a home shop I would invest in the following:

1. Good quality repair stand.
2. Good bench vice.
3. Metric combination wrench set.
4. Metric Cone Wrench set
5. I love the Park tri-tools and would buy 2 of the 4,5,6 mm variety and two of the 2, 2.5, 3 mm variety
6. Quality T handle Allen keys
7. Chain whip
8. cassette lockring tool
9. Bottom bracket tool appropriate for the bikes you'll be working on.
10. Chain breaker & master link pliers
11. Chain checker

Depending on your bike there may be things that you need that I haven't listed. For example if you have a pressfit BB i would recommend buying the correct drift and press to remove & install. As you grow your wrenching prowess you can expand the tools you have to fit the jobs you're completing. I Would also like to mention that if you want a truing stand buy a bench mounted professional unit, the stand mounted once are janky as are most of the inexpensive consumer ones, you'll have better luck using zip-ties on your fork or frame....

As far as fluids, I would suggest that you stick with things that are available locally. I would look for the following:
1. Wet & dry lube
2. thin synthetic grease non-bike-brand will be a fraction of the price and preform just as good
3. If you have mineral oil brakes it is worth buying the large jug. If you have DOT brakes buy it in small quantities from an automotive parts place. DOT will absorb water from the air once opened and will lose its heat resistance after this.
4. Zep purple degreaser is excellent for cutting through old caked on grease, everybody needs a gallon of this.
5. Brake clean or 90%+ ISP alcohol,


Thanks man got almost all of those things might have to add a couple to the shopping list
flag Trudeez
O+
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 1:13 Quote
maxcogley wrote:
Trudeez wrote:
maxcogley wrote:
Hi im trying to start a small bike shop in my garage, and I've been looking for tools, this is the list I've come up with to do a full service of my bike, could someone please tell me if I need to change anything (add or take away.)

Park tool cleaning brush set
Shimano disc brake mineral oil
park tool chain gang cleaning system
park tool stand mounted truing stand
park tool pcs 4-1 deluxe home mechanic repair stand
park tool chain whip and sprocket remover
park tool chain wear indicator
muc off ceramic wet lube
muc off ceramic dry lube
Lifeline pro universal brake bleed kit
park tool spoke wrench sw-0
park tool spoke wrench 3.45 mm red
park tool dummy hub
park tool high performance grease
park tool chainring nut wrench
park tool bottom bracket/casset lockring tool
park tool rotor truing fork
park tool master pliers
Allen keys, torx wrenches and chainbreakers i have at home.

Cheers, Max

I think others have made mention of a few but here's my $0.02....some are dependent on exactly what components your bike is specced with (press fit vs threaded bb, for example) and, if you're planning on working on multiple bikes (because it seems every bike has different bb and headset requirements).

Skip the overpriced park tool grease. Buy high quality waterproof grease from your local MOTO shop (plus they'll appreciate the business). Maxima waterproof and Bel-Ray waterproof are my go-to. Also a lighter grease for things like hubs - I really like the Dumonde Micro Resistance or the Finish Line Ceramic.

10000% skip the muc-off chain lube. IMO the stuff is absolute garbage. We get much much better results with Rock N Roll, Pro-Link Gold and recently have been using the Tru-Tension stuff with nice results. This site has some real results on a bench test and you can read up in depth about lots of different lubes. They're equally anti Muc-Off.

https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/

Headset and bottom bracket cup removers (again, this could be bike specific....if you have a threaded BB and ZS headset then you wouldn't need them, but if you're trying to expand your business they you'd 100% need them).

Also, in conjunction with the cup removers, you'll need a good quality headset and BB press. Massive time saver and will stop you from making any mistakes when pressing in your cups.

https://www.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover-rt-1

The converse of the above also holds, if you have threaded bottom brackets then you'll need the appropriate BB tools. And there are seemingly a dozen different types so start with the one you need and expand from there.

Hayes caliper alignment tool. ABSOLUTE NECESSITY.

Definitely invest in a good accurate torque wrench. You'll want to spend the extra money here.

Hanger alignment tool. You'll use it more than you'd think. Alternatively, keep a few extra hangers in your tool box. They bend quite easy and you'll be surprised how often you'll find that your is actually out of alignment, even if only just.

https://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2-2



Thanks mate
The hanger alignment tool is quite pricy do you think its worth the money.
What rock and roll lube/lubes are the best?
The hayes calliper alignment tool looks like a good buy and I will try and find a way to get my hands on one of those
I have a good variety of torque wrenches at home so I should be right on that part.
I don't know too much about bottom brackets but I will have to do a bit more research about that
The headset cup remover seems alright but it is also pretty pricy
I'll try and find some good grease around, recommendations welcome Smile

The hanger tool isn't absolutely necessary but it's something you'll want eventually, especially if you start working on multiple bikes. You dont need the park tool one. Chain Reaction online sells the house labeled version for a bit less, and it looks identical to the Park version, it's probably the same or very similar tool. And I'm sure it works just fine. Alternatively, make sure you keep an extra hanger in the tool kit in case you do bend it.

I typically only keep Rock n Roll Gold around, fwiw I live in the high desert where we only get about three rainstorms a year so i always stick to dry lube.

My personal favorite grease is Bel-Ray waterproof. It's super thick and tacky and resists wash out incredibly well. But it's harder to find. My second choice would be Maxima Waterproof as it's also excellent. Honestly though, any grease at the Moto shop that is waterproof will do you great. (Finish line, Lucas, Motorex makes a grease called "BikeGrease" which is top quality but a little pricey). The thing about bike grease is that we are not dealing with huge pressures or high temps so the waterproof qualities are most important IMO. One thing is DO NOT buy graphite grease as it can accelerate galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals.

Also a note on the rotor trying fork...if you want to save a few buck you really dont need a specific tool. A good quality crescent wrench will work just as well, and works for so many other things around the shop/bike/car. Just remember if you're using a crescent wrench to adjust your rotors: first make sure you clean the jaws with degreaser/alcohol/or brake clean. You dont wanna contaminate your rotors with oil and grease. Second: take it slow, no big drastic movements, make small adjustments slowly and carefully. If you try to make a big movement and accidentally bend your rotor its toast, mandatory new rotor.

Also, IMO you dont absolutely need park tool items, unless you want all your tool to match which is a nice touch if you're OCD like me. You can get high quality hex t-handles, dyke cutters. Cable cutters, tri-keys and multiple other tools for less than Park Tool. As mentioned earlier, some websites are now selling their own in house tools that are identical or very similar to the expensive name brands (bearing press, cup removal tools, bottom bracket tools, chain whips and on and on). You can also find the same tools for much much more than Park....if the bling is important.

Good luck with your shop build out! Very astute of you to start by asking for advice!
flag erdinc
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 3:35 Quote
kylezt4 wrote:
Hey Guys, I have a new 2021 Commencal Meta Tr and im loving it so far. But I'm having trouble diagnosing an issue with the 11 speed Deore cassette. Only after about 3 rides I noticed a rattling from the cassette going over small bumps. I figured out that the top 4 gears attached together by the carrier I belive its called, are moving 1-2mm laterally and independently from the rest of the gears. I contacted Commencal about it, and they sent me out a new cassette but still have the same issue. I did notice that the Freehub body has some gouges in the splines from some of the cogs. Would this cause the issue im having even after only about 100 miles? Shifting is still super smooth, but the rattling is still concerning. Thanks for any suggestions.

freehub spacer missing?
flag newbermuda
O+
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 3:52 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
riish wrote:
Rock n roll is my go to now, works really well.

Great choice! I'm especially keen on the red version.

Has anyone tried that absoluteblack lube?
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 8:03 Quote
newbermuda wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
riish wrote:
Rock n roll is my go to now, works really well.

Great choice! I'm especially keen on the red version.

Has anyone tried that absoluteblack lube?

Almost cheaper to replace your chain every ride.....
flag Trudeez
O+
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 10:26 Quote
newbermuda wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
riish wrote:
Rock n roll is my go to now, works really well.

Great choice! I'm especially keen on the red version.

Has anyone tried that absoluteblack lube?

I got some when it first came out. Very unimpressive. I didn't get anywhere near the advertised life of the application. After two - ten-ish mile rides my drivetrain was creaking worse than my knees in the morning. For reference, I usually get four to five rides on Rock n Roll or ProLink before I hear anything out of my drivetrain.

I could not tell any difference in efficiency, watts or anything of the like. Maybe on road or xc whips it makes a noticable difference but it didnt feel any better to me.

The biggest turn off is that it washes off with water. I live and ride in the dry ass high desert and even here it's nearly impossible to ride without at least one creek crossing (or any other instance of the bike getting wet).

Definitely not worth the crazy price for something that doesnt feel any better than other good lubes out there.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 10:30 Quote
Everything should be viewed as return on investment.

1000 mL of Rock n Roll costs about the same as 14 mL of absoluteBLACK. The latter lasts a bit longer, but still, it's quite the spread. The difference is a couple of watts. Every watt saved helps, of course, but almost all of us are throwing away far more than that via sub-optimal ergonomics, cheaping out on our tires, poor aerodynamics of our clothing, mediocre diet and sleep, etc.

It's not a bad product, just saying you can get more speed for less money elsewhere.


Trudeez wrote:
ProLink

Used to use ProLink, myself, when it was new and hyped. Chain always felt like it had above average friction when moving it by hand, though, then the test results started coming in, showing ProLink has about the highest friction and wear rate on the market.
flag Thepureface
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 10:45 Quote
Hey guys my fork seal let go mid ride and my brake caliper got soaked in oil ( inverted fork problems)

Is it best to just replace the brake pads?
What about the rotor- can I clean it with ISO and do I have to torch it or something after that?


I have heard so many things from my riding buddies but none are mechanics, figured you guys would know through real life experience
flag Supermikhailmtb
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 10:54 Quote
Thepureface wrote:
Hey guys my fork seal let go mid ride and my brake caliper got soaked in oil ( inverted fork problems)

Is it best to just replace the brake pads?
What about the rotor- can I clean it with ISO and do I have to torch it or something after that?


I have heard so many things from my riding buddies but none are mechanics, figured you guys would know through real life experience

If you got oil on your pads they are done.

Get new ones and clean everything well before you install them.

Cheers.
flag Trudeez
O+
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 10:57 Quote
Thepureface wrote:
Hey guys my fork seal let go mid ride and my brake caliper got soaked in oil ( inverted fork problems)

Is it best to just replace the brake pads?
What about the rotor- can I clean it with ISO and do I have to torch it or something after that?


I have heard so many things from my riding buddies but none are mechanics, figured you guys would know through real life experience

Pads are unfortunately done for. Make sure to clean everything else ridiculously thoroughly. Degreaser/brake clean and alcohol are your friends at this stage.
flag Duderz7
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 11:52 Quote
The biggest turn off is that it washes off with water. I live and ride in the dry ass high desert and even here it's nearly impossible to ride without at least one creek crossing (or any other instance of the bike getting wet).
I use the R&R extreme blue for this reason. Seems to last much longer. Doesn't stay as clean though when dusty, but clean enough.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 12:03 Quote
It's true that a wet lube "lasts" longer, but much of its life is spent as a dust-filled grinding paste. I'd rather have something that traps less abrasive material, even if it wears off faster.

Rock n Roll red has endured light rain and mud for me. Could be because I clean (thorough wipe) and lube every ride. It sounds excessive to some, but it's a quick process when done frequently and my drivetrain lasts several times as long as those of some friends who aren't as diligent.
flag mtbman1980
O+
Posted: Oct 27, 2020 at 12:15 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
It's true that a wet lube "lasts" longer, but much of its life is spent as a dust-filled grinding paste. I'd rather have something that traps less abrasive material, even if it wears off faster.

Rock n Roll red has endured light rain and mud for me. Could be because I clean (thorough wipe) and lube every ride. It sounds excessive to some, but it's a quick process when done frequently and my drivetrain lasts several times as long as those of some friends who aren't as diligent.

Same process I follow. I have been using the WD40 Wet and Dry lube and have been happy with it.

 


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