Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Nov 20, 2020 at 7:15 Quote
bishopsmike wrote:
Chenmiao wrote:

Anyway, don't buy some cheap plastic lights on amazon or ebay. Cuz, it needs high power to give us enough visibility during night riding, the plastic one is in no way able to sustain the high power, or it burned. Don't waste money on that.


Going on 4 years on the same pair of cheap Chinese lights. $23ea, I still get 2+ hours on low (good for technical riding) and 1+ hour on high (crazy bright). Would a $500 light be better? Maybe...

I have some of both, I don't think you need a 5000lm light, I run a 600 on my bars and 800 on my helmet and am just fine. Both nite riders.

That being said I started out with the cheap amazon ones and they're ok. The mounting interface was the biggest weakness. As it was hard to adapt them to a helmet or they'd shift on the bars.

Posted: Nov 20, 2020 at 8:04 Quote
rclugnut wrote:
bishopsmike wrote:
Chenmiao wrote:

Anyway, don't buy some cheap plastic lights on amazon or ebay. Cuz, it needs high power to give us enough visibility during night riding, the plastic one is in no way able to sustain the high power, or it burned. Don't waste money on that.


Going on 4 years on the same pair of cheap Chinese lights. $23ea, I still get 2+ hours on low (good for technical riding) and 1+ hour on high (crazy bright). Would a $500 light be better? Maybe...

I have some of both, I don't think you need a 5000lm light, I run a 600 on my bars and 800 on my helmet and am just fine. Both nite riders.

That being said I started out with the cheap amazon ones and they're ok. The mounting interface was the biggest weakness. As it was hard to adapt them to a helmet or they'd shift on the bars.

Just be aware if your riding with friends at night and they’re lights are much brighter than yours and if they’re behind you, you won’t be able to see. They’re bright lights will make yours disappear and it’s like riding in the dark. I found this out the hard way. So if you’re riding in a group, you should have lights at least as bright as your buddies.

Posted: Nov 20, 2020 at 9:50 Quote
I call it the Chinese light lottery sometimes your lucky and sometimes your not. I am around 50% in getting decent lights. I have 2 very good quality ones. 1 good quality but the beam is super narrow and 1 that I needed to pull apart and puts some thermal past in so it didn't melt down the internal components and it still has heat management issues.

Posted: Nov 20, 2020 at 9:58 Quote
Similar experience for me.

My Magicshine lights have been great.

AliExpress lights for $30 were great for a while. Beam was super narrow, but that was fine when mounted on my helmet. And then it stopped working. Could be an easy fix ... or not; haven't taken it apart yet. Still, for $30, it wasn't a bad gamble.

Posted: Nov 20, 2020 at 10:34 Quote
Twenty6ers4life wrote:
rclugnut wrote:
bishopsmike wrote:



Going on 4 years on the same pair of cheap Chinese lights. $23ea, I still get 2+ hours on low (good for technical riding) and 1+ hour on high (crazy bright). Would a $500 light be better? Maybe...

I have some of both, I don't think you need a 5000lm light, I run a 600 on my bars and 800 on my helmet and am just fine. Both nite riders.

That being said I started out with the cheap amazon ones and they're ok. The mounting interface was the biggest weakness. As it was hard to adapt them to a helmet or they'd shift on the bars.

Just be aware if your riding with friends at night and they’re lights are much brighter than yours and if they’re behind you, you won’t be able to see. They’re bright lights will make yours disappear and it’s like riding in the dark. I found this out the hard way. So if you’re riding in a group, you should have lights at least as bright as your buddies.

My personal opinion Is that this is one of those "bigger is not always better" scenarios. I dont feel like you need massively bright huge lights for night riding. I use a Nightrider 1200 on my handlebar and another on my helmet (get the gopro mount, it's way better than the nylon strap). My experience is that huge light kits tend to whitewash everything ahead of you and actually make the riding harder. Another benefit of the smaller - nitride style lights is that they're compact and relatively light, no auxiliary battery packs needed.

Posted: Nov 20, 2020 at 10:55 Quote
There was a time when light output was limited and we had to be strategic: A flood beam on the bar for terrain and contrast and a spot beam on the head to ensure we didn't lose the route when our bar wasn't pointed in the right direction.

Now, lights and batteries are so good that we can just run 8000 lumens ( Eek ) on the bar for nearly two hours. No need to ensure the bar is pointed where you're looking when you can light up the entire mountain! I remember when I blew people's minds with a Cateye Stadium Light HID that put out 1200 lumens ... after warming up for a couple of minutes. It flickered out in rough terrain and cost twice as much as the Magicshine 8000 lumen model, but it was about twice as bright as anything else at the time and lasted longer. Anyway, enough "back in my day" rambling.

I still like to have two, mid-powered lights: one on the bar and one on my head. The self-contained units, like a Magicshine Allty 2000 (haven't used it, just an example of the type), are super convenient. I used to prefer a unit with separate lamp and battery for my helmet to reduce weight and bouncing on my helment, but with an Allty 1500 at 133 g, the convenience of a combined unit is hard to beat.

Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 10:23 Quote
Does anyone know if this version of KS Lev Integra is serviceable? Mid ride today it went from fine to suddenly not locking out/going up and it was leaking oil after taking it off. I can’t seem to find any service videos/guidance online. Some are close but seem to be older models with different procedures. This became obvious when I stripped it down and compared internals. Gave it a go with no guide to see if anything obvious was broken, didn’t see anything, but when I put it back together, no luck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This bikes on its last legs and I really don’t want to drop ~$200 on a new post.


Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 10:38 Quote
It is serviceable to my knowledge. Check KS's site for a video. If memory serves, they've got pretty good videos.

Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 10:56 Quote
seraph wrote:
It is serviceable to my knowledge. Check KS's site for a video. If memory serves, they've got pretty good videos.

They have really good general maintenance but I don’t see much beyond the basic re-grease, etc

Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 11:19 Quote
BryanBobo wrote:
seraph wrote:
It is serviceable to my knowledge. Check KS's site for a video. If memory serves, they've got pretty good videos.

They have really good general maintenance but I don’t see much beyond the basic re-grease, etc

Correct they dont have cartridge rebuild videos. You can buy a new cartridge from a good bike shop to save time if needed. They cost about $60-80 usually and need to be ordered in.

Here's a good teardown article:
http://www.peterverdone.com/ks-lev-rebuild-and-travel-adjustment/


Here's a youtube video of a rough rundown on rebuilding a cartridge.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty04hG_NX0c

Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 11:46 Quote
I've literally never seen one of those shit itself so hard that oil comes out, but yeah, sounds like you need a new pressure stick. The actual pressure sticks aren't supposed to be servicable, although it is doable. However it sounds like somthing has gone seriously wrong with yours. I'd recommend buying a new stick. In the UK having one sent off for service at the distributor including a new pressure stick, costs less than a pressure stick at retail. Go figure... I'd check with the distributor wherever you live to see if they offer something similar.

Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 11:47 Quote
also worth noting if you take it apart yourself. The threaded stud on the base/lever assembly is ridiculously easy to snap off. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!

Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 12:00 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
also worth noting if you take it apart yourself. The threaded stud on the base/lever assembly is ridiculously easy to snap off. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!

Are you talking about the trigger mechanism at the bottom that threads into the shaft?

I ended up just buying a replacement cartridge

Out of curiosity since I can’t tell from the drawing. I noticed the KS drawing have the cartridge with the shaft coming out of it (red circle). When I took mine apart it was separate from the cartridge (probably where the oil came from). Is the other end inside the cartridge fixed to something to keep it from being pulled out of the cartridge body entirely? Mostly just curious on whether something could have separated from the shaft inside the cartridge allowing it to slide completely out and leak oil.


Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 12:10 Quote
Yeah the trigger mechanism bottom left of the drawing you sent. The threaded stud that protrdes from it is very fragile. Use threadlock and don't tighten any more than "snug"

And yeah the shaft is absolutely not supposed to come away from the cartridge like that. They should remain attached as in the drawing. I assume yours has come unthreaded from the internal piston, which explains why it shat oil everywhere...

Posted: Nov 21, 2020 at 12:42 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
Yeah the trigger mechanism bottom left of the drawing you sent. The threaded stud that protrdes from it is very fragile. Use threadlock and don't tighten any more than "snug"

And yeah the shaft is absolutely not supposed to come away from the cartridge like that. They should remain attached as in the drawing. I assume yours has come unthreaded from the internal piston, which explains why it shat oil everywhere...

Good to know. Thanks for the help! New cartridge is on the way so hopefully that’ll solve it!


 
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