Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Nov 22, 2020 at 11:53 Quote
Noeserd wrote:
Trudeez wrote:
watch123 wrote:
The vast majority are proprietary, with emergency hangers being more generic, but suboptimal for most bikes, their main purpose being getting you back to the trailhead.

There's a new standard by SRAM (?) floating around that some companies have started using (the only one that comes to mind is Trek).

Wheels Manufacturing has a nice tool on their site to track down what derailleur hanger you need for your bike. It's not perfect, but it's pretty good.

Santa Cruz has also started using them on their latest bikes.

Which makes sense to be honest

Yeah actually I love the UDH. Specialized is using them on the new Epic and Epic Evo as well.

Posted: Nov 22, 2020 at 15:15 Quote
Is there anything you can use to replace a snapped Fox bottom out bumper o-ring with that doesn't require taking the shock apart completely? If not what's the worst that can happen if it's missing, just some full frontal metal on metal action?

Posted: Nov 22, 2020 at 15:17 Quote
Hard bottom-outs crack frames. Softening the impact - even a little - makes a big difference.

A potential workaround is to use additional volume reducers in the positive spring, creating essentially an air spring bottom-out bumper.

Posted: Nov 22, 2020 at 16:46 Quote
dingus wrote:
Is there anything you can use to replace a snapped Fox bottom out bumper o-ring with that doesn't require taking the shock apart completely? If not what's the worst that can happen if it's missing, just some full frontal metal on metal action?

Not much you can do. Rmr's suggestions could help.

Posted: Nov 22, 2020 at 18:41 Quote
i bought boost end caps for my 142mm hope hubs i wanna buy a boost crank but im unsure if i need the 6mm offset or the 3mm offset... did the end caps push the cassette over 3mm? or did it just extend the end caps ?

Posted: Nov 22, 2020 at 18:45 Quote
I have a YT generic dropper, and it has progressively become slower until it finally stopped working today. My first suspicion is that it was low on air, but there is no air valve, and I can't seem to find any service kits or instructional videos. Has anyone else had this issue, if so, how did you solve it?

Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 2:36 Quote
dingus wrote:
Is there anything you can use to replace a snapped Fox bottom out bumper o-ring with that doesn't require taking the shock apart completely? If not what's the worst that can happen if it's missing, just some full frontal metal on metal action?

Other than RMR's volume token suggestion, no there is no sensible solution other than taking the shock apart. To be honest, if the bottom out o-ring has snapped, then the shock is probably well overdue a service anyway. I'd just get it serviced.

Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 2:41 Quote
SamuelBallouard wrote:
Hi the compression lever on my float dps can spin 360 in both derection when it should only go in three position and reasons ?

There is a small grub screw screwed into the back of the lever housing a few mm below where the lever enters the shock body. This has either come loose or the end has snapped off. If it has just come loose, if you screw it back in with the lever pointing in the proper direction, everything should go back to normal. If it has snapped (which is relatively common) the shock will need a full strip down and rebuild, in order to remove the piece of metal now floating around in the lever assembly.

Both of the above options are best done by someone with a good understanding of the inner workings of that shock. Doing it incorrectly could easily write the shock off. Sadly this small failure is probably gonna cost you a reasonable amount of money.

Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 9:29 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
i bought boost end caps for my 142mm hope hubs i wanna buy a boost crank but im unsure if i need the 6mm offset or the 3mm offset... did the end caps push the cassette over 3mm? or did it just extend the end caps ?
Which end caps did you purchase? As far as I knew hope only offered conversion caps for the front...

Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 9:31 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
dingus wrote:
Is there anything you can use to replace a snapped Fox bottom out bumper o-ring with that doesn't require taking the shock apart completely? If not what's the worst that can happen if it's missing, just some full frontal metal on metal action?

Other than RMR's volume token suggestion, no there is no sensible solution other than taking the shock apart. To be honest, if the bottom out o-ring has snapped, then the shock is probably well overdue a service anyway. I'd just get it serviced.

The only thing you could try and I am not sure how well it work but if you cut a bottom out bumper and slid it over the shaft then Superglue it back together. There is a low probability it will work but you never know.

Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 13:24 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
i bought boost end caps for my 142mm hope hubs i wanna buy a boost crank but im unsure if i need the 6mm offset or the 3mm offset... did the end caps push the cassette over 3mm? or did it just extend the end caps ?
Which end caps did you purchase? As far as I knew hope only offered conversion caps for the front...

No they offer ones for the rear also it comes with 2 end caps and a spacer to space out the rear disk

Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 13:30 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
ajax-ripper wrote:
cyberoptixs wrote:
i bought boost end caps for my 142mm hope hubs i wanna buy a boost crank but im unsure if i need the 6mm offset or the 3mm offset... did the end caps push the cassette over 3mm? or did it just extend the end caps ?
Which end caps did you purchase? As far as I knew hope only offered conversion caps for the front...

No they offer ones for the rear also it comes with 2 end caps and a spacer to space out the rear disk
Wild, Comp[are them to your old spacers, if the DS spacer is the same length then it has not moved your cassette and you'll need to redish your wheel to the NDS side. If they are equal length then no redish is required. Eitherway its best to stick with non-boost cranks as these tend to offer better chainline regardless of weather or not you have a boost frame.

Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 17:09 Quote
Converting Non-Boost 2015 Santa Cruz Nomad to 12-Speed Eagle from 11-Speed Sram.

Can this conversion be done? It has an XD driver body, but the hubs are 142mm (non-boost).

I worry about the chain line because when installing new cranks and bottom bracket on the bike last week, we ran into clearance issues with the MRP chain guide in the largest rear cog with a 3mm offset chainring which is what was on it previously without issue.

We changed manufacturer on the cranks/BB from Sram to Praxis, so maybe the Praxis BB cup is thinner, moving the chain line toward the frame. That seems to be the only way a 3mm offset chain ring from two separate manufacturers would cause clearance issues with the chain guide unless they're using a different ruler when measuring offset.

The chain guide is already mounted directly to the ISCG tabs with no washers/spacers so it would be impossible to move the chain guide closer to the frame.

I hope I'm not missing something, but I just don't see how I'd be able to put a 12 speed cassette on without creating more chain clearance issues.

Thoughts on if and how I can put the 12 speed cassette on would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Posted: Nov 23, 2020 at 17:15 Quote
pgmtbiker wrote:
Converting Non-Boost 2015 Santa Cruz Nomad to 12-Speed Eagle from 11-Speed Sram.

Can this conversion be done? It has an XD driver body, but the hubs are 142mm (non-boost).

I worry about the chain line because when installing new cranks and bottom bracket on the bike last week, we ran into clearance issues with the MRP chain guide in the largest rear cog with a 3mm offset chainring which is what was on it previously without issue. Your bike requires a 1.5 mm spacer between the DS BB cup and the frame, if this did not go back in you'll have placed your chainring closer to the frame altering the fit of the chain guide.

We changed manufacturer on the cranks/BB from Sram to Praxis, so maybe the Praxis BB cup is thinner, moving the chain line toward the frame. That seems to be the only way a 3mm offset chain ring from two separate manufacturers would cause clearance issues with the chain guide unless they're using a different ruler when measuring offset.

The chain guide is already mounted directly to the ISCG tabs with no washers/spacers so it would be impossible to move the chain guide closer to the frame.

I hope I'm not missing something, but I just don't see how I'd be able to put a 12 speed cassette on without creating more chain clearance issues. a 12 speed cassette is the same width, what changes is the spacing between the gears if you plop a 12 speed cassette on your highest gear and lowest gear will be in the same place that they where on your 11 speed unit. Hub spacing does not have an effect on what you want to do here.

Thoughts on if and how I can put the 12 speed cassette on would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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