Converting Non-Boost 2015 Santa Cruz Nomad to 12-Speed Eagle from 11-Speed Sram.
Ajax, Thank you for the response. The cranks and BB came with spacers but they went between the BB cup and the cranks. The manual they sent said 2mm on the drive side and 1mm on the non-drive side for 142 hubs so that's what we put on. Thank you for the insight about the cassette width remaining unchanged.
Can this conversion be done? It has an XD driver body, but the hubs are 142mm (non-boost).
I worry about the chain line because when installing new cranks and bottom bracket on the bike last week, we ran into clearance issues with the MRP chain guide in the largest rear cog with a 3mm offset chainring which is what was on it previously without issue. Your bike requires a 1.5 mm spacer between the DS BB cup and the frame, if this did not go back in you'll have placed your chainring closer to the frame altering the fit of the chain guide.
We changed manufacturer on the cranks/BB from Sram to Praxis, so maybe the Praxis BB cup is thinner, moving the chain line toward the frame. That seems to be the only way a 3mm offset chain ring from two separate manufacturers would cause clearance issues with the chain guide unless they're using a different ruler when measuring offset.
The chain guide is already mounted directly to the ISCG tabs with no washers/spacers so it would be impossible to move the chain guide closer to the frame.
I hope I'm not missing something, but I just don't see how I'd be able to put a 12 speed cassette on without creating more chain clearance issues. a 12 speed cassette is the same width, what changes is the spacing between the gears if you plop a 12 speed cassette on your highest gear and lowest gear will be in the same place that they where on your 11 speed unit. Hub spacing does not have an effect on what you want to do here.
Thoughts on if and how I can put the 12 speed cassette on would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
ive seen a cheap new Rockshox Monarch Plus for sale but it is a H/M tune, can I change it to a M/M tune by swapping parts around inside it to get the rebound from H to M ??
*edit* ooooh I get it now. You need to be a little clearer with the lingo dude. I thought you were talking about putting really light damper fluid on the foam rings in your fox 38 there.
But to answer your question... Maybe. You can physically do it, but your tyre will be very square and you wont be able to lean it over as far in corners.
The tread will be a little flattened and there's a chance you could lean beyond the side lugs if the tread has less wrap than average. Another problem due to insufficient tread wrap is that your sidewalls will be quite exposed. This increases the risk of damage and causes the tire to deflect off of rocks, rather than "hooking" onto them.
Overall, yes, it shouldn't be a disaster, but it's not ideal ... until tire manufacturers give us a proper amount of tread wrap, at which point it will become an ideal set-up due to the added support from the rim.
ive seen a cheap new Rockshox Monarch Plus for sale but it is a H/M tune, can I change it to a M/M tune by swapping parts around inside it to get the rebound from H to M ??
cheers Gaz..
Probably not no, but not actually sure exactly what the difference in shim pack is between those two tunes. However if the shock is a good deal I'd probably get it anyway and see what it rode like in its current state. IMO most peoples suspension is underdamped. You might find the h/m works well.
Probably not no, but not actually sure exactly what the difference in shim pack is between those two tunes. However if the shock is a good deal I'd probably get it anyway and see what it rode like in its current state. IMO most peoples suspension is underdamped. You might find the h/m works well.
I kind of thought the H rebound was for Heavier riders, whereas im quite light so figured it would ride rubbish for me. I figured I would either need a M/M or a M/L but then this H/M has popped up and threw a spanner in the works.
Probably not no, but not actually sure exactly what the difference in shim pack is between those two tunes. However if the shock is a good deal I'd probably get it anyway and see what it rode like in its current state. IMO most peoples suspension is underdamped. You might find the h/m works well.
I kind of thought the H rebound was for Heavier riders, whereas im quite light so figured it would ride rubbish for me. I figured I would either need a M/M or a M/L but then this H/M has popped up and threw a spanner in the works.
I'd give the H/M shock a shot and if it turns out the the H tune is too much, have a suspension tuner tune the shim stack for you the next time you need to service the shock. Its not as cheap as if you got an M/M that was a perfect fit for you (no guarantee of that anway) and didn't need a tuner to redo your stack, but there is chance it might work and if it doesn't, its a $100 incremental cost to your shock service
H is for high load on the damper, which can come from a heavy rider, very hard-hitting rider, and/or a highly leveraged shock. It's uncommon for a lighter rider to need a H compression tune, so yeah, you probably won't like it. It's not money well spent if you have to spend a couple hundred to get it re-shimmed or if it makes your bike ride harshly.
That shock is H-rebound M-compression. The LSR on that shock has an extremely broad range, but yes if you are super light then you might find the shock packs down a little on repeated hits. Especially if you aren't running many tokens.
Yes if you are confident fiddling with shim tunes you will be able to reduce the hsr shim tune at home. But this really depends on how good a deal the shock is in the first place. If it's only $20 cheaper than the softer tuned equivalent, it's probably not worth the hassle.
Running fewer tokens will help the situation, as he would probably be using higher base pressure, which will speed up the rebound, especially near top-out.
H is for high load on the damper, which can come from a heavy rider, very hard-hitting rider, and/or a highly leveraged shock. It's uncommon for a lighter rider to need a H compression tune, so yeah, you probably won't like it. It's not money well spent if you have to spend a couple hundred to get it re-shimmed or if it makes your bike ride harshly.
Thanks, im still fairly new to all of this, I just considered that option as it was cheap. think I will give it a swerve then.
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