Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 9:34 Quote
Anyone have recommendations for a decently priced set of torx T-handle wrenches? With the extra tip up on the handle like the park tool ones.

All i’m finding is chinesium or higher end stuff. Debating maybe just buying the park set, I just hate paying the markup for it being “bike specific”.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 10:07 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
No, it's just for early stage prototyping. No concerns over that.
Will they look like a DHF? Ha Ha!

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 10:35 Quote
johnovey wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
No, it's just for early stage prototyping. No concerns over that.

Will they look like a DHF? Ha Ha!

Totally different. More like a combination of a Panaracer Romero and a Versus.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 10:50 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
BearingProTools

These look great, thanks for posting. Would you recommend nut drive or handles?

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 10:56 Quote
I've used only the pullers, not the presses. Handles could be more convenient, but ratchets or ratchet wrenches may be even better than the handles and would guarantee sufficient length for a stubborn bearing.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 11:16 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
johnovey wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
No, it's just for early stage prototyping. No concerns over that.

Will they look like a DHF? Ha Ha!

Totally different. More like a combination of a Panaracer Romero and a Versus.

Are you trying to make tires with proper tread wrap?

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 12:15 Quote
Nobble wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for a decently priced set of torx T-handle wrenches? With the extra tip up on the handle like the park tool ones.

All i’m finding is chinesium or higher end stuff. Debating maybe just buying the park set, I just hate paying the markup for it being “bike specific”.

I agree the bike specific mark up is a pain, but there aren't a lot of alternative options if you like the design of the park ones. I have and use the Park torx and allen t-handles, and yeah they are nice to use. The design is good. Construction wise, I think the torx in particular are worth spending out on. The fins on any torx driver do get damaged over time if abused, and parks free refills for life offer can be a lifesaver.

Speaking of lifesaver, there is a company called lifesaver that do tools that look to be a carbon copy of Park t-handles at around half the price. I have no idea about the metal quality though. Or the warranty. It might be worth forking out for the Parks and being happy in the knowledge that you will never have to pay for them again.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 13:09 Quote
Nobble wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for a decently priced set of torx T-handle wrenches? With the extra tip up on the handle like the park tool ones.

All i’m finding is chinesium or higher end stuff. Debating maybe just buying the park set, I just hate paying the markup for it being “bike specific”.

I love the Birzman Torx wrenches.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 15:47 Quote
HunterBoMTB wrote:
nubbs wrote:
HunterBoMTB wrote:


plz read entire post...Facepalm
Rotate bars to perpendicular from rest of bike and wiggle back and forth with NO BRAKE applied. That is very important.

If you still feel play on the fork at the dust wiper with your fingers then yes. There is likely bushing play. A good bike shop should have the tool to sink the lower bushing a bit lower to eliminate that play for ya. Not super common on rockshox forks.

thanks for the info!! but the bars are already perpendicular to re rest of the bike. you mean the wheel?

Yeah whoops. The wheel.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 15:49 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
nubbs wrote:
A good bike shop should have the tool to sink the lower bushing a bit lower to eliminate that play for ya. Not super common on rockshox forks.

DON'T PUSH THE LOWER BUSHING DOWN FURTHER THAN IT IS SUPPOSED TO GO!
So much no!

What? So if you don't push the bushing 1 or 2 mm lower how are you supposed to fix the play?

You have me confused.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 16:10 Quote
Well let me say I Hate Sram Level Brakes . when working they are great but my issue is always the Bleeding of them. they say how great and easy it is with the bleeding edge system. Sure that is nice but my issue is the levers . You can watch 100 you tube videos and they just screw in the lever port adapter and then open the bleed port on the caliper and just push the fluid from lever to caliper then caliper to lever and it goes so smooth. NEVER has that been the case for me. and yes i have the lever reach set at 75-80mm from the center of the bars. and i can push hard enough that the hose will blow off the port fitting and it will not push through to the caliper or back. its driven me so crazy that i opened up a lever and hooked a hose and syringe up to it to see if the reach adjust maybe needed to go a little more or less. and it doesn't move through the lever. it just doesn't make sense. ive had tons of sram/avid brakes and bleed them hundreds of times but these just wont work . I don't know what to say or do . I've rebuilt them from top to bottom and nothing changes . I cant believe i am the only person who has had this issue. the brakes are Sram Level TLM brakes. so any ideas or people who had the same issues . anything is appreciated

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 16:26 Quote
nubbs wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
nubbs wrote:
A good bike shop should have the tool to sink the lower bushing a bit lower to eliminate that play for ya. Not super common on rockshox forks.

DON'T PUSH THE LOWER BUSHING DOWN FURTHER THAN IT IS SUPPOSED TO GO!
So much no!

What? So if you don't push the bushing 1 or 2 mm lower how are you supposed to fix the play?

You have me confused.

Remove the old bushings and replace with new. This is the only solution

Increasing the distance between the bushings by 1 or 2mm (assuming bushings are roughly 100mm apart, so increasing that gap by 1 or 2%) will barely have any effect om the amount of play. You would have to literally double the distance to have any noticable effect, and even then it wouldnt eliminate the play, it would at best reduce it a smidge.

Pushing the bushings beyond their seat risks having the stanchions come out of the lower bushing during riding. This would be catastrophic. However yeah pushing them down 1 or 2mm isn't really going to increase that risk. However there is another issue. Forks often have a slight lip that the lower bushing sits against. If you force the bushing past that lip, you will likely write off the fork lowers. A few forks do not have a lip or any sort of reinforcement around the specified bushing depth, and yes it is true that in a fork of that design, the only limiting factor for how low you can set the bushings is the amount of stanchion insertion. However, as I say, if your bushings are loose, no amount of extra depth will eliminate that play. If you double the bushing gap you wil halve the play. But you will never ever get anywhere near doubling the gap. You might at best increase it by a few percent, and this will achieve essentially nothing.

If you have bushing play, you need new bushings.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 16:30 Quote
Although it is also worth noting tha quite often bushing play is simply caused by a lack of bath oil cos no one ever services their suspension frequently enough. Take your lowers off, replace the bath oil and smear a little bit (literally just a thin layer, not big lumps) of grease on both upper and lower bushings. You will find in a lot of cases the bushing play is drastically reduced.

Posted: Dec 5, 2020 at 17:40 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
Although it is also worth noting tha quite often bushing play is simply caused by a lack of bath oil cos no one ever services their suspension frequently enough. Take your lowers off, replace the bath oil and smear a little bit (literally just a thin layer, not big lumps) of grease on both upper and lower bushings. You will find in a lot of cases the bushing play is drastically reduced.

I've been told that lowers on a fork where the lower bushing presses into is a conical shape. Therefore if you sink a lower bushing a bit it will eliminate play.

I've done this 5 times and it worked. 4 fox forks and one Pike. Confused as rockshox doesn't sell replacement bushings anyway.

Agree that the oil and grease can eliminate play yes.


 
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