Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 7:16 Quote
riish wrote:
Speaking of threadlocker vs grease for threads - would you ever use copper paste spray or a similar anti-seize on bolts instead of grease?
I use it quite often working on cars, mostly on stuff that gets really hot. Would it be useful applied to threads instead of grease, as it's less of a lubricant?

Yeah, if you have it anti-seize is better than grease for threads that are just plain metal on metal and it's not going to get on anything other than metal.

Grease is fine though, unless you plan on not servicing your bike for millions of years, with the added bonus that you can just slather it on liberally and not worry about it attacking any of the softer bits of your bike. As you say, applications that get hot (like engines) is where anti-seize really out performs grease.

Over the course of a year you won't notice any difference between grease and anti-seize on a bicycle. But yeah, anti-seize is better in theory.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 7:36 Quote
Hi guys,
I was playing around on my Norco Fluid HT 1 the other day, and It was when I bunny hopped up a curb when I heard a "CLUNK" and looked down and saw the part where the clutch is touching the chainstay. It looked like a derailleur looks when you buy it new. Curled up, I loosened the nut that holds the cable, and I was suprised when I saw my derailluer cage bent. Pooped, I tried bending it back, not had, but that didn't do shit. Even more pooped, I called up some friends and asked them what to do, and one of them said " you need attach the cable the the derailleur and then use the barrel adjuster to make sure its shifting clean" Did that, only worsened it. Now, with the cable frayed and I still can't attach it because it's too short, I'm asking you guys for help. If anyone tell me to buy anything new, I will ignore it. Please tell me what to do (If there is anything I can do) and if I should send you a picture or something idk. I have a Deore 1x10.

Thank you,

Michael

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 8:20 Quote
michaelbozof wrote:
Hi guys,
I was playing around on my Norco Fluid HT 1 the other day, and It was when I bunny hopped up a curb when I heard a "CLUNK" and looked down and saw the part where the clutch is touching the chainstay. It looked like a derailleur looks when you buy it new. Curled up, I loosened the nut that holds the cable, and I was suprised when I saw my derailluer cage bent. Pooped, I tried bending it back, not had, but that didn't do shit. Even more pooped, I called up some friends and asked them what to do, and one of them said " you need attach the cable the the derailleur and then use the barrel adjuster to make sure its shifting clean" Did that, only worsened it. Now, with the cable frayed and I still can't attach it because it's too short, I'm asking you guys for help. If anyone tell me to buy anything new, I will ignore it. Please tell me what to do (If there is anything I can do) and if I should send you a picture or something idk. I have a Deore 1x10.

Thank you,

Michael

Please upload a picture.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 9:08 Quote
michaelbozof wrote:
Hi guys,
I was playing around on my Norco Fluid HT 1 the other day, and It was when I bunny hopped up a curb when I heard a "CLUNK" and looked down and saw the part where the clutch is touching the chainstay. It looked like a derailleur looks when you buy it new. Curled up, I loosened the nut that holds the cable, and I was suprised when I saw my derailluer cage bent. Pooped, I tried bending it back, not had, but that didn't do shit. Even more pooped, I called up some friends and asked them what to do, and one of them said " you need attach the cable the the derailleur and then use the barrel adjuster to make sure its shifting clean" Did that, only worsened it. Now, with the cable frayed and I still can't attach it because it's too short, I'm asking you guys for help. If anyone tell me to buy anything new, I will ignore it. Please tell me what to do (If there is anything I can do) and if I should send you a picture or something idk. I have a Deore 1x10.

Thank you,

Michael

If your cable housing is too long you could trim it shorter to get a bit more out of the cable, but if you want it to shift well just buy a new cable.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 9:21 Quote
arphia wrote:
michaelbozof wrote:
Hi guys,
I was playing around on my Norco Fluid HT 1 the other day, and It was when I bunny hopped up a curb when I heard a "CLUNK" and looked down and saw the part where the clutch is touching the chainstay. It looked like a derailleur looks when you buy it new. Curled up, I loosened the nut that holds the cable, and I was suprised when I saw my derailluer cage bent. Pooped, I tried bending it back, not had, but that didn't do shit. Even more pooped, I called up some friends and asked them what to do, and one of them said " you need attach the cable the the derailleur and then use the barrel adjuster to make sure its shifting clean" Did that, only worsened it. Now, with the cable frayed and I still can't attach it because it's too short, I'm asking you guys for help. If anyone tell me to buy anything new, I will ignore it. Please tell me what to do (If there is anything I can do) and if I should send you a picture or something idk. I have a Deore 1x10.

Thank you,

Michael

If your cable housing is too long you could trim it shorter to get a bit more out of the cable, but if you want it to shift well just buy a new cable.

A new cable will be $5 tops and you'll have a much better time dealing with it than a frayed one.

Also check your b-tension screw/where the screw hits the derailure, I've seen the screws bend or that contact point break causing what you say.

Lastly google how to adjust a Shimano derailure. Or maybe firstly because it doesn't sound like you started in the right place.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 10:34 Quote
Im noticing that my Sram Code RSC front brake lever (which has already been warrantied once for sticky piston) is losing its snappiness when i let go of the lever after braking. it doesn't snap back as it did when brand new. Is there any solution to getting that snappiness back? It seems like im always having some kind of issue with these. When they are working right they have great power and modulation but seems like they're very finicky.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 10:43 Quote
gnarcissistictendency wrote:
Im noticing that my Sram Code RSC front brake lever (which has already been warrantied once for sticky piston) is losing its snappiness when i let go of the lever after braking. it doesn't snap back as it did when brand new. Is there any solution to getting that snappiness back? It seems like im always having some kind of issue with these. When they are working right they have great power and modulation but seems like they're very finicky.
I think it's way past time that Sram fixed this problem. I'm sending in a 5 month old Guide RE lever today in fact.
There warranty was better before, when they would allow dealers to replace the lever assy quickly. Now I have to send it away, pay one way shipping & lose 2 weeks of riding. It appears they would rather make junk & warranty 30%, than to spend a bit more on quality.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 19:18 Quote
Hi PB, I smashed my rear derailleur and hanger so I bought new everything. When I mount the derailleur to the hanger "properly" the derailleur has a significant amount of movement at the mounting bolt and B washer. According to the manual there shouldn't be a gap between the B washer and the hanger, mine has a good size gap. If anyone knows what I'm doing wrong please help. They should be fitting perfectly.

Here's the manual:
www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/drivetrain/95-7618-001-000-rev-c-2x-3x-mtb-derailleurs-user-manual.pdf

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 19:37 Quote
jesses-g wrote:
Hi PB, I smashed my rear derailleur and hanger so I bought new everything. When I mount the derailleur to the hanger "properly" the derailleur has a significant amount of movement at the mounting bolt and B washer. According to the manual there shouldn't be a gap between the B washer and the hanger, mine has a good size gap. If anyone knows what I'm doing wrong please help. They should be fitting perfectly.

Here's the manual:
www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/drivetrain/95-7618-001-000-rev-c-2x-3x-mtb-derailleurs-user-manual.pdf

Post a pic

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 19:54 Quote
jesses-g,

Did the B-tension screw get in the way, i.e. are you clamped against it?

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 20:30 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
jesses-g,

Did the B-tension screw get in the way, i.e. are you clamped against it?

No, I made sure i wasn't. it feels like the play is inside the derailleur.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 20:32 Quote
We're going to need more information.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 20:44 Quote
cyberoptixs wrote:
jesses-g wrote:
Hi PB, I smashed my rear derailleur and hanger so I bought new everything. When I mount the derailleur to the hanger "properly" the derailleur has a significant amount of movement at the mounting bolt and B washer. According to the manual there shouldn't be a gap between the B washer and the hanger, mine has a good size gap. If anyone knows what I'm doing wrong please help. They should be fitting perfectly.

Here's the manual:
www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/drivetrain/95-7618-001-000-rev-c-2x-3x-mtb-derailleurs-user-manual.pdf

Post a pic

Here's a photo

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 20:45 Quote
That path is for your local computer. You have to upload it first. And delete that link if you prefer anonymity.

Posted: Jan 12, 2021 at 21:00 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
That path is for your local computer. You have to upload it first. And delete that link if you prefer anonymity.

How do I upload it?


 
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