Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag rahrider
O+
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 5:58 Quote
I have a 2x front wheel i have to rebuild. I actually never knew it was 2x. Never had an issue with it. My understanding is that it makes for a stiffer wheel but potentially less durable. For a front, where I've never snapped a spoke, why not?
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 6:39 Quote
rahrider wrote:
I have a 2x front wheel i have to rebuild. I actually never knew it was 2x. Never had an issue with it. My understanding is that it makes for a stiffer wheel but potentially less durable. For a front, where I've never snapped a spoke, why not?

Fractionally stiffer yes. Although I would argue this probably isnt a good thing unless your rim is literally a single wall thing off a halfords bike.
Much less durable. Stresses are focussed into much smaller areas. If you haven't had problems so far thats cool, but if the wheel needs rebuilding you may as well build it stronger, with the added advantage of a bit of compliance.

The only genuine reason for going less than 3x I can think of is if you are a manufacturer and want your wheel to be 10g lighter than the competition. Or if your hub flanges are so large 3x isnt possible.
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 6:55 Quote
Twenty6ers4life wrote:
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
Off topic, but does anyone know anything about KMX 125s? I need to rebuild my rear shock but cant find any ifp/oil weight specs. Whenever I ask in motorbike forums i get a lot of egos and basically no knowledge whatsoever.People saying shit like "theres no point mate, just buy a shock of a 2004 husky and fit that, they're only £700"
I know its a shit shock, but I wanna rebuild it cos it needs doing and I'm bored as shit with this lockdown. It's a 1998 shock with no piggyback which is a pain in the ass. If it had a piggyback I'd have it apart and sorted in 30 mins.

As it's not got a piggyback, I just need to know if the ifp is captive behind a circlip or if the things gonna blow up in my face if I undo the sealhead. Then I need to know what oil and ifp pressure to put back in. Anyone know any info, or a good place for me to look? It's not in the Haynes manual.

I would call or email Procircuit and ask the suspension techs there. That doesn’t seem like it’s a stock shock though if it doesn’t have a piggyback or remote reservoir . I used to have a 92 KX125 and it had a piggyback rear shock..

https://www.procircuit.com/suspension.html

Yeah the 1998 seems to be an oddball in that respect. For a very brief period they did non piggyback shocks. I'll buy something nicer for it in future, but for now I'm just gonna mess about with this one in my workshop. Should kill a few hours.
Cheers for the advice. I found some pictures of one stripped apart eventually which is enough to go on for now. Probably will end up contacting a service center to see if I can sweet talk oil weight and ifp pressure out of them.
flag Psyclist
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 7:18 Quote
Hi all, I've been advised to ask in here to see if any of you have any opinions on whether or not it's worth upgrading the dead Acros bearings on my 2017 YT Capra CF for a better headset?

Appreciate any input!
flag liam-fillinger
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 7:53 Quote
Psyclist wrote:
Hi all, I've been advised to ask in here to see if any of you have any opinions on whether or not it's worth upgrading the dead Acros bearings on my 2017 YT Capra CF for a better headset?

Appreciate any input!


That depends. If the bearings are shot. Then buy a new headset that will last longer, ie- Chris king, cane creek, raceface. But if they are still fine I wouldn’t worry about it. Until the problem arises. You could also try repacking the bearings in the cups.
flag liam-fillinger
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 7:59 Quote
gabriel-mission9 wrote:
liam-fillinger wrote:
R-M-R wrote:
Since we're still on the subject of liam-fillinger's wheels:

liam-fillinger, ask your wheel builder what tension or what tensiometer reading was used. If the answer is "I don't know" or "I don't use a tensiometer", find a different builder.

The builder of my wheels is a local mechanic. He builds all my wheels and gets them done right and promptly. He puts the tension around 120KGF so it's stiff and strong with a little bit of flex still. He has built all my wheels and I have never had a problem. I believe the rim is faulty because I have had the same one on my rear for about 5 months of riding and whistler tech and jumps with no problems. I run 42 psi because it gives me a really good feel on the trail and it's just personal preference since I don't like a lot of tire fold. I will attach some pictures in the morning. If I can get a warranty I might pay the extra 12.94$ for the HD version.

Which side did the builder do up to 120kgf?
42psi is waaay too high
Even a weak or damaged rim built well shouldn't catastrophically fail under a small hit mid trail. It's so hard to tell without seeing the wheel, but my immediate gut reaction is that quick a failure is down to a sideways landing or a bad build.

It has been five days and race face replaced my whole entire front wheel to an atlas (Their highest rated dh wheel) and they also wanted to inspect my fork and they put a new airspring inside which was bent????. Anyways I sent it to them Tuesday, got it back Sunday without even having to pull out my bank card. Serious props to raceface!!!
flag watch123
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 8:11 Quote
LK14 wrote:
Can anyone help me identify the model of this Kona Kahuna?

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2558396/

This would be extremely helpful so I know what size rear hub i need. Thank you. (:

It looks like either a 2015 or 2017 model. The 2015 doesn't have a size listed, but 2016 was 142mm, so it's not unlikely it wouldn't be 142mm.

The 2017 model is 135mm.

The other model years I looked at (2016, 2018, and 2019) all have more curves in them, most noticeable the part between the seat tube and the top tube.
flag LK14
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 8:41 Quote
watch123 wrote:
LK14 wrote:
Can anyone help me identify the model of this Kona Kahuna?

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2558396/

This would be extremely helpful so I know what size rear hub i need. Thank you. (:

It looks like either a 2015 or 2017 model. The 2015 doesn't have a size listed, but 2016 was 142mm, so it's not unlikely it wouldn't be 142mm.

The 2017 model is 135mm.

The other model years I looked at (2016, 2018, and 2019) all have more curves in them, most noticeable the part between the seat tube and the top tube.

Thank you for your help but i eventually found the model and it a 2012:
https://2012.konaworld.com/29er_hardtail.cfm?content=kahuna_deluxe
Im still not sure what size hub to get though. Any suggestions or information? thanks Smile
flag watch123
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 8:55 Quote
LK14 wrote:
watch123 wrote:
LK14 wrote:
Can anyone help me identify the model of this Kona Kahuna?

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2558396/

This would be extremely helpful so I know what size rear hub i need. Thank you. (:

It looks like either a 2015 or 2017 model. The 2015 doesn't have a size listed, but 2016 was 142mm, so it's not unlikely it wouldn't be 142mm.

The 2017 model is 135mm.

The other model years I looked at (2016, 2018, and 2019) all have more curves in them, most noticeable the part between the seat tube and the top tube.

Thank you for your help but i eventually found the model and it a 2012:
https://2012.konaworld.com/29er_hardtail.cfm?content=kahuna_deluxe
Im still not sure what size hub to get though. Any suggestions or information? thanks Smile

The only source I could find said it was 142 (scroll down a bit). I would recommend messaging the seller and asking him to measure the distance between the dropouts to be sure however.
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 9:06 Quote
rahrider wrote:
My understanding is that it makes for a stiffer wheel but potentially less durable. For a front, where I've never snapped a spoke, why not?

The difference in stiffness is due to the shorter spokes, therefore less material to stretch. So the difference is however much stretch you get from the additional material. It's about 1 cm, or under 4%. The difference between thin spokes (ex. 1.5 mm, such as Sapim Lazer / CX-Ray or DT Revolution / Aerolite) and thick spokes (basic 2.0 mm) is 33%. The latter is noticeable; the former is doubtful.


liam-fillinger wrote:
Serious props to raceface!!!

Glad to hear the issues are solved and thanks for letting us know. Race Face hasn't always had the best reputation for warranty service, so it's nice to give them credit when credit is due.
flag LK14
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 9:22 Quote
watch123 wrote:
LK14 wrote:
watch123 wrote:


It looks like either a 2015 or 2017 model. The 2015 doesn't have a size listed, but 2016 was 142mm, so it's not unlikely it wouldn't be 142mm.

The 2017 model is 135mm.

The other model years I looked at (2016, 2018, and 2019) all have more curves in them, most noticeable the part between the seat tube and the top tube.

Thank you for your help but i eventually found the model and it a 2012:
https://2012.konaworld.com/29er_hardtail.cfm?content=kahuna_deluxe
Im still not sure what size hub to get though. Any suggestions or information? thanks Smile

The only source I could find said it was 142 (scroll down a bit). I would recommend messaging the seller and asking him to measure the distance between the dropouts to be sure however.

Thank you very much this is extremely helpful and also this is my fist time using forums and I'd like to say how useful and helpfull they areSmile tup Big Grin
flag cyberoptixs
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 9:23 Quote
LK14 wrote:
watch123 wrote:
LK14 wrote:
Can anyone help me identify the model of this Kona Kahuna?

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2558396/

This would be extremely helpful so I know what size rear hub i need. Thank you. (:

It looks like either a 2015 or 2017 model. The 2015 doesn't have a size listed, but 2016 was 142mm, so it's not unlikely it wouldn't be 142mm.

The 2017 model is 135mm.

The other model years I looked at (2016, 2018, and 2019) all have more curves in them, most noticeable the part between the seat tube and the top tube.

Thank you for your help but i eventually found the model and it a 2012:
https://2012.konaworld.com/29er_hardtail.cfm?content=kahuna_deluxe
Im still not sure what size hub to get though. Any suggestions or information? thanks Smile
. Take a ruler and measure the distance between the 2 drop outs
flag Psyclist
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 9:26 Quote
liam-fillinger wrote:
Psyclist wrote:
Hi all, I've been advised to ask in here to see if any of you have any opinions on whether or not it's worth upgrading the dead Acros bearings on my 2017 YT Capra CF for a better headset?

Appreciate any input!


That depends. If the bearings are shot. Then buy a new headset that will last longer, ie- Chris king, cane creek, raceface. But if they are still fine I wouldn’t worry about it. Until the problem arises. You could also try repacking the bearings in the cups.

Appreciate you getting back to me! The bearings are definitely shot! Rusted to hell, seals warped, and even the cage isn't in great condition. I just figured while I had to replace them anyway, it might be worth getting something a little nicer in there, but someone in the YT Capra thread suggested I ask whether it was worth it or not in here.
flag erdinc
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 9:59 Quote
Buy a hope headset and be able to leave it maintenance free for min 2-3 year
flag mark-p
Posted: Jan 24, 2021 at 10:05 Quote
Hope headset every time. they can be more expensive but you get what you pay for.

 


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