Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

PB Forum :: Mechanics' Lounge
Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag Nobble
Posted: Jan 28, 2021 at 21:02 Quote
Trudeez wrote:
Gazzamatazzzz wrote:
diamondback1x9 wrote:
I was going to tape my rims today and the tape is not sticking. It is muc off tape fwiw. I blew off the rims before i attempted to tape them but the tape just came right off. Didn't even try to stick... any tips?

Gorilla tape FTW.

Works good in a pinch. . . . If that's all that's available. However, leaves a terrible residue when you remove it. And, its seems to self vulcanize itself to the tire bead so it's almost impossible to get the old tire off without the tape coming off. If you don't mind methodically cleaning off gummy residue every time you change a tire then yes, it works great. Still best to use dedicated rim tape IMO.
there's no such thing as a dedicated rim tape, they're all just rebranded industrial tapes.

Enve "dedicated rim tape" is just the 1" gorilla tape roll with an Enve branded cardboard roll.
flag kieranwilder
Posted: Jan 28, 2021 at 21:13 Quote
I have a 2019 Santa Cruz 5010 which has a 130mm fox dps shock in 210x50. I recently purchased a Fox dpx2 in 210x50 but it was off of a 2021 Intense primer. The rebound/compression tunes are slightly different between my current shock and the new dpx2. Does this matter? Will it affect ride quality noticeably?

Here is the Custom ID info from Fox on my current dps:
2019, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Evol LV, Santa Cruz, 5010 , 210, 50, 0.6 Spacer, LCM, LRM, CML, Standard Logo

And here is the info on my new Dpx2
2021, FLOAT DPX2, P-S, A, 3pos, Evol LV, Intense, Primer 29 Expert/S Expert, 210, 50, 0.9 Spacer, CM, RLA019, Rezi M F M, Standard Logo

Any info helps! Thanks
flag naptime
Posted: Jan 28, 2021 at 21:46 Quote
R-M-R wrote:
seraph wrote:
Honestly dish soap and water, and then rubbing alcohol should be sufficient. No need to break out the industrial cleaners.

This is true, I'm just presenting options to get things really clean.

Isopropanol (alcohol) is often recommended as a cleaner in the bike world. It's not very good, but it's safe for almost all bike materials. Acetone is much better, but it will attack some polymers, notably the epoxy used in carbon components.

Re: the recommendation for petrol: Yes, it can remove oil-based glues and residues, but it leaves its own oil-based residue. Not much, but maybe enough to be an issue with tape that doesn't want to stick. If you use petrol, follow up with soap and water.

or.... fire......... \M/
(joke BTW)
flag naptime
Posted: Jan 28, 2021 at 21:52 Quote
XStapse wrote:
photo
It was the result of hitting the stones in the photo,When I rotate, there is not any problem
but it looks bad,Can I make fillings instead of teeth ? Do you have any suggestions?

unless you can get the right size tap an die set.
plenty of grease, then just un thread the coil retainer over the damage a few times until smooth. The harder steel retainer will clean the softer ally threads. Then a good clean of the grease an any swarf. Also remove the retainer from the damper an clean the threads of swarf but this require removing the damper from the frame and coil from the damper.
flag seraph
Posted: Jan 28, 2021 at 22:23 Quote
nojzilla wrote:
XStapse wrote:
photo
It was the result of hitting the stones in the photo,When I rotate, there is not any problem
but it looks bad,Can I make fillings instead of teeth ? Do you have any suggestions?

unless you can get the right size tap an die set.
plenty of grease, then just un thread the coil retainer over the damage a few times until smooth. The harder steel retainer will clean the softer ally threads. Then a good clean of the grease an any swarf. Also remove the retainer from the damper an clean the threads of swarf but this require removing the damper from the frame and coil from the damper.

If you're going to try to use the collet to clean up the threads then don't use grease, use oil. But I would use a hardened scribe to clean up the threads first. I've fixed many an alloy thread with a good scribe (usually called a pokey tool at the shop).
flag mackay66
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 2:27 Quote
XStapse wrote:
Magura mt trail is it beautiful ?

convo has moved on now, but i hate the magura plasticky levers which look shit even on their top top brakes. not only the material but the actual shape is clapped too
flag wellbastardfast
O+
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 8:19 Quote
Question

Simce Shimano 12 speed quick links cost £345,000 anyone tried to mix and match them ie a kmc 12 speed quick link or sram eagle
flag hmstuna
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 8:45 Quote
Yeah I run Sram eagle works fine
flag wellbastardfast
O+
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 9:01 Quote
hmstuna wrote:
Yeah I run Sram eagle works fine

Sram eagle quick link in a shimano 12 speed
flag kieranwilder
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 9:25 Quote
I have a 2019 Santa Cruz 5010 which has a 130mm fox dps shock in 210x50. I recently purchased a Fox dpx2 in 210x50 but it was off of a 2021 Intense primer. The rebound/compression tunes are slightly different between my current shock and the new dpx2. Does this matter? Will it affect ride quality noticeably?

Here is the Custom ID info from Fox on my current dps:
2019, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Evol LV, Santa Cruz, 5010 , 210, 50, 0.6 Spacer, LCM, LRM, CML, Standard Logo

And here is the info on my new Dpx2
2021, FLOAT DPX2, P-S, A, 3pos, Evol LV, Intense, Primer 29 Expert/S Expert, 210, 50, 0.9 Spacer, CM, RLA019, Rezi M F M, Standard Logo

Any info helps! Thanks
flag newbermuda
O+
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 9:47 Quote
Kierawilde wrote:
I have a 2019 Santa Cruz 5010 which has a 130mm fox dps shock in 210x50. I recently purchased a Fox dpx2 in 210x50 but it was off of a 2021 Intense primer. The rebound/compression tunes are slightly different between my current shock and the new dpx2. Does this matter? Will it affect ride quality noticeably?

Here is the Custom ID info from Fox on my current dps:
2019, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Evol LV, Santa Cruz, 5010 , 210, 50, 0.6 Spacer, LCM, LRM, CML, Standard Logo

And here is the info on my new Dpx2
2021, FLOAT DPX2, P-S, A, 3pos, Evol LV, Intense, Primer 29 Expert/S Expert, 210, 50, 0.9 Spacer, CM, RLA019, Rezi M F M, Standard Logo

Any info helps! Thanks

should be fine
flag fuzzydunlop
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 9:49 Quote
Possibly a daft question but I think it's possible

I've just bought the new status and want to switch it up, it's currently has a SRAM dub boost crankset and a 11-50t cassette. I only need 10 speed so as long as I space it correctly can I run a mix of Saint/Zee 1x10?
flag newbermuda
O+
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 10:06 Quote
I've had the same front tire (2.5 vigilante light/high grip) for about 10 months/1500 miles. Is that long enough to warrant a new one?
flag wellbastardfast
O+
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 10:10 Quote
fuzzydunlop wrote:
Possibly a daft question but I think it's possible

I've just bought the new status and want to switch it up, it's currently has a SRAM dub boost crankset and a 11-50t cassette. I only need 10 speed so as long as I space it correctly can I run a mix of Saint/Zee 1x10?

No mate sram dub has 28.99 bottom bracket shimano stuff is generally 24mm you will need a new BB. Just live it as is bud
flag R-M-R
Posted: Jan 29, 2021 at 10:14 Quote
newbermuda wrote:
I've had the same front tire (2.5 vigilante light/high grip) for about 10 months/1500 miles. Is that long enough to warrant a new one?

It's all about how much of a degradation in traction you're willing to accept. Traction is diminished the moment the crisp edges of the lugs begin to round off, which happens after only a few days of riding. It's a "boiling frog" situation and we never realize how bad the traction has become until we replace the tire. For example, I noticed I was struggling with traction and barely keeping ahead of riders I normally easily outpace. Replaced the tire and was immediately back up to pace.

1500 miles is usually more than enough to do in a soft compound tire.

 


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